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The door latch in Kenmore and Kitchenaid isn't of the best design.The spring steel latching tab is needs to push down the black plastic slide mechanism when the door in closed. That slide pushes down on a micro switch which interrupts the cycle when you open the door when the dish washer is running. Take the latch assembly back out. You can insert two compression springs inside the slide on each side of the latch. They are approx 3/16 Dia x 3/4 to 1 inch long. In the hardware dept at Home Depot or Lowe's..The springs will push the slide down hard enough to activate the switch. Right now your dish washer thinks the door is open.
On many dishwashers, the latch engages a switch to activate the timer and other control components. If the latch is not completely engaged or if the switch is faulty, the machine will not operate. Here's how to test and repair a door switch:
Step 1: Latch the door and hold the latch tightly in the closed position. This works best on a unit with a lever-type latch. Then turn the control to the ON position. If the unit works, the problem is probably a misaligned lock unit. Adjust the lock unit with a screwdriver. If this doesn't solve the problem, the switch may be faulty.
Step 2: Test the switch with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Remove the panel covering the door switch and remove one of the electrical lead wires of the switch from its terminals. Clip one probe of the VOM to each switch terminal and shut the dishwasher's door. If the meter reads zero, the switch is working. If the meter reads higher than zero, the switch is faulty and should be replaced.
Step 3: Replace the switch with a new one of the same type. Connect the new switch the same way the old one was connected.
Hi Scott. It appears you have the same dishwasher as mine bought in 2010- it worked sporadically for several years. I bought one year warranty ($289) in Feb2014 . Over 2 months, service technicians replaced 3 parts (user control board, motor control board and water sensor) hoping that each would fix it. They told me to run hot water before starting a wash cycle. Dish washing cycle failures were still sporadic and it finally lost all power in May2014. Service techs would not come out so I confirmed house power supply with a multimeter and then took the door apart to access the latch. I determined the latch kill circuit was not assembled properly and it had carbon buildup which I scraped off.
If your warranty has ended and you attempt this, do not use a power screw driver with these Torx screws as you can easily strip the threads or damage the plastic user control housing by screwing in too far on the top screws. (especially if you forget to reinstall the internal handle which acts as a spacer).
To disassemble: Remove the top 4 screws and top side screws, loosen the middle and lower side screws as needed. Separate the washer door face wide enough to remove the user control board, let it hang by the cord. The handle will be loose in the way, remove it. The latch has a white plastic kill circuit which is held to the latch with tabs. Unplug the circuit and carefully remove it. The circuit comprises 2 flat metal sheets that are pushed together by the latch lever when the door is shut. These plates separate when the door is open to kill washer power. The latch lever should be under both circuit plates with the shorter plate on the bottom. (long plate, short plate, lever, white housing). Reassemble, remember to include the handle My dishwasher operates properly now.
I never heard of a smeg DW but you can bet the door interlock is hung up in some way. Ususally its micro switches on the latch assy. Then again, could be a bad relay on the control board. I would dis connect the switch first and see what happens. The way I would do that is disconnect power at your circuit box and dis connect the switch, tape off the wire, latch the door and return power. Bet it doesn't run. Most likely the switch assy. Would help to know the right brand name tho...
Hi, The door latch pulls the door tightly closed to prevent water leakage around the door. It is also designed to prevent operation while the door is open. The door latch works in concert with the door switch to ensure that the door is tightly closed and latched.The door switch is a separate part from the door latch and is found inside the cabinet. The switch is off when the door is open. Depressing the switch closes the circuit and enables dishwasher operation. Closing the door does not depress the switch all the way. Only when the door is closed and latched, does the door fully depress the switch. If the door latch is not properly aligned it may not pull the door tightly closed and the door switch will not be fully depressed. Unless the switch is fully depressed the dishwasher will not operate.It is a simple matter to determine whether the door latch is the problem. Simply open the door, close the latch and select a cycle and depress the switch. Note that if the test is successful, with the door open, the dishwasher will operate and water may spray out. Make sure to first remove all tools from inside the dishwasher. Do not reach inside the dishwasher during the test. Now, inspect the cabinet where the door makes contact with it and locate the door switch. It may have a protruding button or spike or more likely it is a hole with a piece of metal or plastic inside it. You must fully depress that switch. If the switch is recessed, then use a non-conductive object, such as a wooden pencil, to depress the switch. Thank you !!
there is a switch in the latch on the door that won't let it accept a program, cause the sensor is telling it the door is open,if you can get at the switch, clean everything around latch and switch, make sure it's adjusted properly and all working smoothly, try again, if no work, replace switch, I've heard of this going the other way and people got all there dishs locked up in the dish washer because the safety latch failed,
Yessir, I have a few.
1. Check the latch and strike. Usually, they're just loose.
2. Check the wiring to the switch. The lock and latch take a good bit of vibration being opened and closed.
3. Take a good look at the latch for physical damage. It happens. Your only recourse here is probably to replace the latch.
4. You didn't mention if the washer would run; the door latch is a permissive switch - if the washer will run, the switch is making contact, but the latch is defective. If it won't run, either the latch switch is bad, or the issue may be the control panel.
Best regards, --W/D--