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Indesit c 239 freezer red light flashing, then stays on food defrosting but motor seems to be running?

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  • confuddledbl Aug 07, 2008

    yes its frost free

  • douglas smith May 11, 2010

    is this a frost-free type?

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1 Answer

There may be two possible causes.
take back panel off inside freezer. if pipework is blocked with ice, then melt off with a hairdryer and freezer will then work - this is a temporary repair only and get back to me for further help if this is the condition. check also that the fan works. having defrosted, there may be a delay of 10-15 mins before fan turns on
if pipework is not blocked with ice and compressor is running, this points to compressor failure or a system blockage. neither of these is a do-it-yourself repair
doug

Posted on Aug 08, 2008

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No alarm sounding but red light is flashing?


Warning light (red)
If the temperature warning light (4) lights up, it
indicates that the temperature within the freezer has
reached a level where the safe food storage is no
longer ensured. When the freezer is first switched on, the warning light will stay on until the temperature has dropped to
a safe level for the storage of frozen food.

Temperature acoustic alarm
This appliance incorporates an alarm which gives off
an audible signal whenever the warning light comes
on. This signal can be temporarily stopped by
depressing the push button for fast-freezing (6).
The fast-freezing push button can be released as
soon as the warning light is off.

Open door acoustic alarm
This appliance also incorporates an alarm which
sounds if the door is left open for more than 60
seconds. The signal will be stopped when the door is
closed again.

Dado

Sep 02, 2014 | Zanussi 3.53 cu. ft. / 100 liter Upright...

1 Answer

Frigidaire freezer runs a lot. Located in garage. In summer runs almost non-stop. Currently outside temps are below 0 deg F and freezer still cyles frequently. Have replace the freezer tstat. Defrost...


Yup, these timers have a tiny clock motor that can get lint on them, causing motor failure, should be simple replacement. Refrigerators in cold garages run more to regulate their temperature below 45 degrees.

Jan 29, 2014 | Freezers

1 Answer

HOW DO YOU PUT REFRIG IN DEFROST MODE WHEN IT HAS ELECTRONIC DEFROST CONTROLLER


You didnt give the make of the ref.; But your solution is here for most all

The newest defrost feature in modern fridges is the electronic adaptive defrost control board. *Maytag has one version, see picture...to put this adaptive defrost style of fridge into defrost, short with a small screwdriver between L1 and test on the adaptive defrost board, wait 3 seconds and you should hear a "click" noise from the relay and the fridge will shut off and go through a defrost cycle. A close up common way *this* version of the Maytag/JennAir control is wired.
Amana also has a version of adaptive defrost, see info sheet for some help on the Amana version. Press refrigerator light switch five times in six seconds to initiate defrost cycle. Pressing five more times within six seconds will cancel defrost and go straight into the run mode. Similar operation on both bottom mount and SxS refrigerators. After the defrost terminator/thermostat opens, six minutes of dwell time occurs before the compressor and condenser fan motor will operate. After defrost terminator/thermostat open, 10 minutes of dwell time occurs before the evaporator fan motor will operate.
Frigidaire has also jumped into the market with an adaptive defrost board. The fresh food section light switch and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.
Frigidaire - referance model FSC23F7DSB3
This product comes equipped with an Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC). To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A ?¿½d?¿½ in the freezer temperature window and ?¿½F?¿½ in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. ?¿½d?¿½ and ?¿½F?¿½ will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)
For some Whirlpool refrigerators - some Kenmore refrigerators are made by Whirlpool ( 106.######## )
The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
?¿½ If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
?¿½ If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

Maytag S-S Refrigerator MSD2756GEW forcing defrost cycle
I replaced my defrost heater two weeks ago, but the frost built back up on the evaporator coils. Replaced the adaptive defrost board with new ( Maytag p/n 6100598 8 ) board. Want to force a defrost cycle to see the heater work, so I shorted the L1 pin to adjacent pin (now called DOOR instead of TEST) for three seconds and nothing happens. Compressor keeps running, fans still going etc. Tried pressing the door switches 5 times in 6 seconds and that doesn't work either. Any hints on how to get the defrost cycle to initiate?
Hi,
This might help, a copy:
The issue is that some 12002104 ADC boards have been shipped in the 61005988 ADC board box. Do not reorder the board, the 12002104 board will function the same in place of the 61005988, but you must use the forced defrost method for the 12002104. Jumping "L-1" and "door" will not initiate the forced defrost function.
To Initiate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Cycle cold control on and off three times in six seconds. The cold control needs to be left in the closed (call for cooling) position for the defrost system to energize on all platforms. It is not enough to cycle the cold control knob, the contacts must actually open and close (open doors for a period of time if necessary to force the control to call for cooling). In most cases, you can hear the contacts open and close if they are doing so.
To Terminate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Disconnect power for five seconds.
You were right. I cycled the cooling controls three times and it went into a defrost cycle. Thanks.

Aug 08, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

My freezer does not seem to be freezing properly. Some of the meat is staying frozen while some is getting soft. All my bread products are not freezing at all they are staying cold but soft???


THE RED WARNING LIGHT KEEPS COMING ON AND I HAVE TO KEEP PRESSING THE FAST FREEZE BUTTON, THIS IS EVERY FEW DAYS. IF I DONT NOTICE ALL THE FOOD DEFROSTS!

Mar 23, 2010 | Frigidaire 20.3 Cu. Ft. Frost-Free Upright...

1 Answer

The fridge is not cooling the food and especially dinks .the cooling setting is on max


Good day,
General problems.
1. The coil in the freezer is frosted up, preventing air from being
sent to the fresh food compartment. (defrost system not working).
Three parts. Defrost control, defrost thermostat, main defrost heater.
2. The fan motor in the freezer is not working, or working properly. Same results as #1.
3. The damper control that vents air from the freezer to the fresh food compartment is not opening (pneumatic style).
4. Lights stay on when the door is closed.

Best we can do without a make and model number.

Nov 11, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Kenmore elite 596 73503201 no cooling in top compartment


if the freezer is getting cold the problem is due to the cold air from the freezer not getting into the refrigerator. There are several things that can cause this problem. The coils in the freezer icing up and not defrosting properly is one of the things that can cause the refrigerator not to get cold enough. Another problem is the fan that blows the cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator, not working. When the compressor is running open the refrigerator's door and push the switch that makes the light go out. You should hear the fan blowing the cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator, when this switch is pushed in. If the fan is working then you will need to find what is blocking the air flow. Iced up coils are a common problem. The icing problem can be due to a defective defrost timer or something defective in the defrost circuit. Click here for more information. Check for these problems and let me know what you have found.
REFRIGERATOR TROUBLESHOOTING
#1 Refrigerator side getting warm Freezer still cold
Evaporator fan motor not running.
Defective defrost timer. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Defrost heater defective. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Defrost thermostat defective. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Airflow blocked from freezer compartment.
Freezer control turned to "coldest" setting blocking air flow to refrigerator side. On most refrigerator/freezers, the freezer control closes a baffle when turned to coldest setting, and this blocks off the air flow to the fresh food compartment.
Fan blade broken.
Defective door switch on older models.
Light staying on with door closed.
2 Refrigerator & freezer compartments both are getting warm
Make sure refrigerator is plugged in and has power.
Condenser fan motor on bottom under refrigerator not running.
Condenser coil clogged.
Defective defrost timer. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Defective defrost heater. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Defective defrost thermostat. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Evaporator fan motor not running.
Cold control defective.
Compressor overload defective.
Compressor relay defective.
Light staying on with door closed.
Compressor defective.
Low on refrigerant. #3 Freezer compartment getting hot.
Defrost timer stuck in defrost cycle.(replace)
Defrost thermostat stuck.(replace)
Ice maker stuck in harvest cycle
Light staying on with door closed. 4 Ice maker not making ice
Defective inlet water valve.
Freezer temperature not cold enough. (see problem # 2 & 3 above)
Defective thermostat in ice maker.
Defective drive motor.
Water inlet tube clogged with ice.
Defective module in newer style icemaker. 5 Refrigerator sweating around door edges
Door gaskets leaking air.
Defective case heaters.
Energy saver switch not set to reduce exterior moisture
also if require more help click the link http://www.applianceaid.com/refrigerator.html please do rate the solution .thanks in advance.thank you for using fixya.

Mar 27, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Chest freezer


do you have voltage at the compressor? if not you have an open circuit or bad t-stat. if voltage is present and compressor is not running you have a bad start device or bad compessor. if voltage present and compressor runs you have a refrigeration issue get a new freezer.

Jul 17, 2008 | Whirlpool 14.8 cu. ft. Chest Freezer...

3 Answers

Hotpoint FFS70 fridge/freezer


This is normal  the red light tells you that there is a slight of decreased in coldness .Eventually the red light will  disappear after the refrigerator has recollected it's coldness... in 24 hours approximately .....Jack Arevian.(.Aleppo Syria).Refrigeration Engineer...........

Oct 16, 2007 | Hotpoint FFS70 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Cold freezer warm fridge.


That sound was the evaporator fan motor in the freezer. This circulates the cold air from the freezer into the fresh food section. If this is not running you need to check for power to it. If the fan has power to it but not running, replace it. It should be located behind freezers back wall inside of freezer near top.

Oct 09, 2007 | Refrigerators

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