Question about Maytag Ovens
The oven ignitor glows but does not always light. Sometimes it does, sometimes not. When it glows I do not hear the gas being released. Is it a bad ignitor or release valve?
SOURCE: Oven will not ignite
The problem is not fixed, but I know it involves replacing the ignitor and/or the gas valve. I just wanted help diagnosing the two so I only had to buy one part if I could. We live on a budget and if I could avoid replacing an unnecessary part that would help. I am afraid your elite people would just tell me to start with the ignitor and then the valve.
Thank you just the same.
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
SOURCE: oven stopped working
No, that is a top burner valve. Most likely the igniter is bad, part # 12400035. The only way to test it is with an ammeter; it must draw a minimum of 3.3 amps to cause the valve to open. Oven valve part # 7501P133-60. These go bad as well, but not nearly as often. If you are going to take a risk, try the igniter first. Available for $40 at www.timerking.com and elsewhere. Hope this helps!
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
That is correct. You will have to check if the valve needs replacement or if there is power being sent to the solenoid for the valve. There must be just a connection problem.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
You just need a new gas valve. This is a simple repair for you and you can save a lot of money by repairing it yourself.
Just contact us at:
with your brand and model number and we will get the correct part out to you right away.
We look forward to getting you cooking again soon.
Posted on Nov 08, 2009
Gas shut off valve handles are perpendicular to the gasline when closed and parallel when opened. If you are referring to the appliance regulator behind the stove, the lever should face up or out, as opposed to sideways. This particular lever only shuts gas down to the oven and not the stovetop.
Let us know if you need more assistance.
Posted on May 16, 2010
SOURCE: oven won't light.
Localwonder gave a more comprehensive answer, but I wanted to share my recent related experience too:
Same model: MGR5750BDW
Oven was not heating up, or would sometimes and not others. Broiler worked fine. The nice thing is that the broiler igniter and the oven igniter are the same part. So I swapped them until I could get a replacement part.
Before I did anything, I turned off the gas!
To take out the broiler igniter: there's one screw right near the front of the oven that holds the burner assembly in place. Remove that, gently pull the assembly off the gas nozzle off to the left. Then where the wires from the igniter go into the back wall, remove the screw that holds the little door, remove that little door, and then gently pull the wires through until the connector comes through the opening. I also found you can go behind the stove, remove the back panel (which is easy) and see the igniter's connector.
The oven one: remove the floor of the oven by lifting it at the back, and then lift it out towards the back of the oven. Then you can see the igniter at the back of the floor of the oven. remove the two mounting screws, and then gently pull the wires until the connector comes through the insulation.
The bad igniter looked like it had burned down to bare metal in a big patch...not sure if that's the actual problem, but in any event, I installed the good igniter in the bottom (gently pushing the reconnected connector through the insulation, and feeding as much of the wires down in there as well), and the bad igniter in the broiler position (since that was the easiest one to access and replace, it'll be easy enough to replace when I get the parts). Tested, and everything worked great. And I could watch the bad igniter light up, and never light, confirming that it was the igniter itself that was the problem.
The best part, for this stove anyway, -- the ONLY tool needed was a #2 phillips screwdriver. Really. All told, maybe an hour of work, nothing intense. And free -- so if they both worked, it would have spared me ordering a part that didn't need to be replaced!
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
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