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1
Park the motorcycle on its center stand. Remove the spark
plug-wire cap from the plug by hand. Loosen and remove the spark plug
from the cylinder head with a spark plug wrench.
2
Gap the spark plug to 0.026 inches with a spark plug gap
gauge. Reinstall the plug tightly in the cylinder head with the plug
wrench. Reattach the plug-wire cap by hand.
3
Detach the wire lead at the fuel sensor on the right side of
the cylinder head by hand. Loosen and remove the sensor with a metric
wrench. Clean the inner end of the sensor with spray cleaner. Reinstall
the sensor securely with the wrench. Reattach the wire lead.
4
Detach the wire lead at the exhaust sensor at the underside
of the muffler by hand. Loosen and remove the sensor with the metric
wrench. Clean the inner end of the sensor with spray cleaner and
reinstall the sensor securely. Reattach the wire lead.
Throttle and Carburetor
5
Take a position where you can observe the throttle linkage
at the left side of the carburetor. Twist the throttle grip at the
handlebars slowly as you observe the action of the linkage.
6
Tighten the cable adjuster at the top of the carburetor with
a metric wrench in small increments so the linkage responds immediately
as you open the throttle.
7
Start the engine and allow it to warm up for three minutes.
Locate the smaller idle-adjustment screw and the larger fuel-air
adjustment screw at the right side of the carburetor. Turn the
idle-adjustment screw to the right one full turn with a screwdriver.
8
Turn the fuel-air adjustment screw to the right or left with
a screwdriver as you listen to the engine's speed. Turning it too far
either way slows the engine's speed. Find the point where the engine
idles at the fastest speed.
9
Allow the engine to idle. Turn the idle-adjustment screw to the left one full turn.
It is the small diaphragms in the carburetor. They get old and dried out, losing their flexibilty and then they can't perform their intended function. Get a gasket and diaphragm kit for it, can't go wrong. One other thing is that the carb possibly needs adjusting. There a 2 very small Low and High speed mixture screws underneath the larger Philips head screw on the carburetor's die. The large Philips head only adjust the IDLE SPEED, by keeping the throttle plate open at whatever amount. The L and H mixture screws, however, control the way the carb functions and meter the amount of gas to the engine. If you can, turn the L screw counterclockwise 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn, this will allow more fuel to flow in the LOW speed circuit and possibly enable the engine to accelerate. If this does not work, get the G & D kit and install it in the carb. Post here first for installation instructions and it is easy to put the parts in wrong. That won't hurt anything, it just won't run if you do!
You have two adjustment screws on the carb, one is for adjustment the mix at idle and the other under throttle conditions. You can tune the engine by ear. Refer to your manual for which screw is which. If you don't have it you can figure it out by letting the engine idle and give one of the screws a half turn (CC or CW doesn't matter) if that affects the idle condition readjust that screw back to the original position and proceed to adjust the other screw with the throttle full pressed. You will be able to hear the engine lean out or when it runs too rich, simply listen to the engine for when it starts to rev properly.
On an otherwise healthy machine, the carb tuning procedure goes like this:
1) With the engine off, turn both mixture screws clockwise until they lightly "seat". Then turn them back counter clockwise two (2) full turns each.
2) Turn idle screw CCW and observe the throttle shaft movement. When it stops moving, the throttle plate is completely closed. From here, turn idle screw back clockwise two (2) full turns.
These initial settings should be sufficient to get a healthy machine to start up and stay running for the carb-tune procedure.
START THE ENGINE AND ALLOW ONE MINUTE TO WARMUP.
3) Turn the mixture screw closest to the engine (marked "L" ) clockwise in small increments (1/4 turn at a time) until the engine smooths out. Then back CCW until you have a slightly rough idle.
4) Accellerate to full throttle and turn the mixture screw closest to the air filter (marked "H" ) clockwise until the engine revs get higher and eventually begin to fall off again. Turn back CCW beyond ultimate top speed . . . until a veryslight flutter is heard at top speed.
5) Release the trigger and adjust base idle speed until the blades barely crawl, then lower it one more touch.
6) Repeat steps 3, 4, and 5 once more and then check throttle response on quick rev-ups. VERY VERY small adjustments to the "L" screw in a CCW direction will give better response but larger adjustments will affect "H" settings.
That's it.
Special note for step 5: When you make the FINAL base idle adjustment, set it as high as possible without allowing the blades to move. This facilitates easier starts when warm.
This running pattern often indicates a lean fuel mix.
Unfortunately, with today's environmental hysteria, you probably will not be able to adjust the carburetor enough to get it to run better. If you do have any carburetor adjustment available, try turning the screw (the high speed screw, if there are two) counter-clockwise a bit. This will allow more gas into the mixture. Most small engines today have limiter caps that prevent very much carburetor adjustment.
Try getting the blades sharpened. Also have them checked to see if they are tight together, sort of like a pair of scissors. If the screws holding the blades together are sloppy the blades can't cut.
yes the throttle isnt giving enough gas. there should be two screws side by side somewere near the trigger next to the cable that moves when you pull the trigger. play around withthose screw a few hours youll get it.
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Usually with these small engines you start the needle placment by lightly seatign the needles all the way in and then 1and 1/2 turns out. That is enough to get the engine started, then ajusted while running almost always father in. Idel jet at idle , of course and high speed jet under load,if possible. I would start with the carb first as that is the most likely problem.
Double position trimmers
For extended reach while on the ground, a double position trimmer avoids you having to climb up high by allowing you to adjust the handle into a right angle to the blades for a level cut across the top of the hedge.
Clippings collector
As you trim your hedge, collect those stray cuttings in a clippings collector for a neater finish.
Automatic cut out
An important safety feature, this automatically switches off the hedge trimmer once the trigger is released.
Hand guard
For reassuring safety, a hand guard will protect you from the moving blades and from falling cuttings as you work.
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