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My whirlpool top loader extra large washing macine

Jsrock516has given me detailed instructions on how to fix the problem with my whirlpool top loader extra large washing machine i.e.the motor is running but machine will not wash or rinse. He says that the instructions pertain to Top Loading Direct Drive Machines and not older models with
WIG WAG Belt Driven transmission. Can he give repair instructions if mine is one of these older models please? Thanks Taffurs

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Dear Sir/Madam,

What is the Model Number of your washing machine?

Posted on Aug 07, 2008

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Hi,

Many late model washing machines use a direct-drive system to agitate and spin. They don't use belts or pressure wheels to transfer power and motion from the motor to the transmission. The motor is coupled directly to the transmission. If the motor is running and there is no agitation or spinning of the tub, the culprit is usually a plastic coupling between the motor and transmission or the transmission itself.

Posted on Aug 07, 2008

  • Priya darshan Aug 07, 2008

    Disconnect the washing machine from its electrical source. You don't
    need to disconnect the water or drain lines, although you can if it
    makes access easier.




    Step2
    Remove two Phillips screws in each corner below the front control panel
    and pull the control console towards you then flip it up and back.
    Unplug the wire harness and use a flat-blade screwdriver to push back
    on the spring clips popping them out.




    Step3
    Lift the lid, tilt the cabinet towards you and slide it out and away
    from the machine. Beneath the agitator cap should be a bolt or screw
    covered by a plastic cover. Remove this bolt and lift out the agitator
    revealing the transmission drive shaft.




    Step4
    Take out the pump by releasing two spring clips holding it in place and
    move it to the side revealing two more spring clips screwed to the
    motor. You do not have to remove the hoses. Remove the two screws on
    the spring clips.




    Step5
    Use the flat screwdriver and remove the bottom clip first. Place a hand
    under the motor to keep if from falling, release the top clip allowing
    the motor and coupling to come away from the transmission assembly.




    Step6
    Release the transmission from the frame by removing the two bolts
    holding them in place. Tilt the machine back and slowly slide the unit
    out from the bottom paying close attention to any washers that may be
    in place.




    Step7
    Install and secure the new transmission unit in the reverse order of
    its removal. Make sure you put back any washers previously removed.
    Reinstall the coupling, motor, pump, cabinet and control panel in the
    reverse order of their removal.

  • Priya darshan Aug 07, 2008

    You can also click on the below link and follow the instructions given there with the pics.

    http://www.repairave.com/washerrepair_wp...


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I HAVE A WHIRLPOOL TOP LOADER MODEL 3LSR6253E01 MY WASHING COMES OUT COVERED IN LINT. I CANT FIND A FILTER ON THE MACHINE IS THERE ONE? PLEASE HELP THANKS KATE


All washing machine have lint filters to protect the pump, but they generally have quite large holes and although called 'lint' filters, they are to stop baby socks and coins getting into the pump. They are always at the bottom of the machine behind the front kick panel on a front loader or under the agitator on a top loader.

If your washing comes out covered in lint, you need to find the item that is shedding it. May also be paper tissues left in pockets. We only have one item that sheds lint and that is a bathmat. We wash it separately.

Take a look at this video.

Washer Filter Plug Kit part 285868 How To Replace

May 26, 2016 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

Tip

Purchased my Whirlpool front loader 4/2004, we are on our 7th bellow, new inner...


This advice is for the Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet FRONT LOADER style washing machines. A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn’t cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.

I hope you find these instructions helpful and good luck to you.

on Feb 21, 2011 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Which is better a top loader or front loader washing machine?


Front Loading Washing Machine: Fully automatic.
1. Better washing than toploading as technologically proofed.
2. No extra effort except putting cloths and detergent inside.
3. No need to observe in between while washing. Start and forgot. You can go market and come back.
4. No issue if electricity or water went out during washing.
4. Take more water compare to toploading semi-automatic.
5. You can not open it once it started.

Top Loading Washing Machine: Semi
1. Save water and detergent.
2. Need extra effort to put the cloth from one box to another.


Front Loading Washing Machine: Fully automatic.
1. Better washing than toploading as technologically proofed.
2. No extra effort except putting cloths and detergent inside.
3. No need to observe in between while washing. Start and forgot. You can go market and come back.
4. No issue if electricity or water went out during washing.
4. Take more water compare to toploading semi-automatic.
5. You can not open it once it started.

Top Loading Washing Machine: Semi
1. Save water and detergent.
2. Need extra effort to put the cloth from one box to another.

Oct 10, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Top loader leaks when filling


you need to take the bottom cover off and see if it;s not the fill valve,, the water line goes into a little valve usually with hose clamps this would be the fill valve, sometimes they crack after a while and need to be replaces it has 2 wires going to it, unplug them take off the hose clamps remove it, get a new one and reinstall it,, but before taking it out look with a flash light and make sure it might just be a hose on the macine side of the fill valve that why it onloy leaks when finnling

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1 Answer

Maytag top loader slight leak from bottom left corner


Thank you for responding. Yes we fixed the problem. After taking off the front cover noticed the hose from the liquid bleach dispenser (which I never use) was not connected. Evidently when using the extra large load a little water would splash into the bleach dispenser, hence the small amount at bottom front left corner where dispenser is located. So simple! Glad I didn't pay for someone to attach the hose. Thanks again for your timely response. Lynn

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Water flow into washer will not shut off


It could be the valve or the fill sensor. You can Google the washing macine brand and it will give you a diagram of what parts the washing macine has and does Also try RepairClinic.com. .

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how do you open top on whirlpool washer?

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