Question about Jandy Aqualink - Rs24 One Touch Pool / Spa Combination Control System

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2 problems one a reading of general fault the

2 problems one a reading of general fault the other is even though I increase the ORP I can not raise my chlorine levels it hovers around .5

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How are you increasing the orp if not with chlorine?
ORP is not a direct chlorine reading and can be misread for a number of reasons, if your alkalinity, ph, cyanuric acid, or TDS levels are out of control, the ORP reading on any controller will be mute. These controllers manage ph and chlorine only (typically), but all the other chemicals and water treatment rules still need to be handles by the user.

It is also possible that your orp probe has gone bad. The most important thing to have dialed in is the pH, otherwise you will never get a correct ORP reading, as they are only accurate when in between 7.2-7.8 pH value.

Also, if you cant raise the pH above .5 no matter how much chlorine you add, you might just have old contaminated water, if the TDS and the CYA are extremely high, you will see this scenario.

Posted on Apr 11, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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What should the psi compression be thanks.


It can vary between make and model of car. However, a general rule of thumb is that 135+ average is okay. Less than 85psi is pointing at something seriously amiss in the engine.

It can vary - some cars may have 125psi as 'average' compression.

Don't expect each cylinder to give the same compression reading as there will be a fluctuation. Another general rule of thumb is that there shouldn't be more than 10% variation between the readings. That is, if cylinder No1 is 135 psi, cylinder No2 shouldn't be less than '125 ish'.

If you suspect you may have compression issues, it's quite easy to do a bit of fault finding. Warm the engine first so that the pistons are expanded in the cylinders. Then do a dry compression (normal) test.

Here's some examples of compression tests on a 4 cylinder engine:
130 127 129 127

All compression readings are within 10% of each other. Fine.

Example 2:
95 95 129 127
Here, a low compression reading on cylinder 1 and 2 suggests a problem. It may be due to a faulty head gasket/cylinder head allowing compressed gases to be transferred via the defective head gasket from one cylinder to another.

Example 3:
130 80 129 127
Cylinder No2 has a problem. It's compression is way down. The other three cylinders are fine. So .. what is the cause of the low compression on cylinder 2? It could be a broken ring/cracked piston or a burnt exhaust valve.

This is where you do a second compression test - called the 'wet' test.

Squirt some light engine oil into each cylinder. Aim for the cylinder walls so that the oil can find its way down the walls and around the piston rings. Place a rag over each spark plug hole and spin the engine to expel excess oil.

The oil that you have sprayed into each cylinder will form a 'seal' around the piston ring. Do another compression test and note down the readings. Here's example 3 again:
Example 3:
130 80 129 127
.. with the low compression on cylinder 2.

If after carrying out the 'wet' compression test you have a reading along the lines of
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suggests that the bore/piston rings in cylinder 2 are at fault. The compression has increased on No2 cylinder because of the oil forming a seal around the rings.

If there is no increase in psi on the wet test i.e
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My check engin light is on but it's running fine


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