Question about Maytag Dryers

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I bought a non-working LDE882 Maytag Dependable Care + dryer at a garage sale in hopes of resurrecting it for my laundry room. PO replaced the belt and claimed he "may have dislodged some wires" when putting everything back together. After looking at the parts diagrams and schematics, it could be just a loose wire or other bad switch. What would you check first?

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  • docdcmail_co Apr 12, 2011

    Many thanks, manual is downloading now (real slow connection tonight).
    OK, I wired in a new 4 prong cord tonight, shut the door and set to normal dry, pushed start and buzzer sounded (it does shut off with rocker switch) and the damp monitor lights lit up along the bottom most row with a flash, but No tumbler action. Dial had ticking noise like the timer was working, but when I push in "press care" button and hit start, nothing lit up.
    Since I need to reverse door hinges anyway I took off front panel and pulled door switch to take to work to check with mult-meter tomorrow. I did see 2 wires loose in there. One was a blue wire (~18 ga) with a female spade end. Could not match it up with anything that it would reach. The other was a green ground, again with a female spade, but nothing to mate it with. It was attached to the right side of the drum support. The blue wire routed back toward motor, but came out of the harness with the 12 ga purple that goes to the heater.
    I'll check those things you mentioned Moby (lol) and get back here Tuesday eve.

  • docdcmail_co Apr 12, 2011

    Could those 2 wires go to the "dryness sensor" on page 68? It does not seem to be there on this dryer?? There are holes for it, but she's a gone.

  • docdcmail_co Apr 12, 2011

    I pulled the 160 degree therm and tested BK-PU for continuity per instructions. No continuity. I guess this means bad component, right? I did get continuity between RD-PU if that makes any difference in the troubleshooting. Door switch metered out good, as did both thermal fuses (cutoffs).

    Blower fan was a tiny, tiny bit worn looking on the shaft flat side, but turned the drum when rotated by hand, so I presume that to be a good sign. Not sure what it does when it gets up to speed, though.
    So, right now, I am thinking I need the dryness sensor and the 160 thermostat, and some rubber feet.
    Not sure what to check up top in the control panel, just figured on getting the lower figured out first. It's gonna as clean as it was new when I finish with it. Just hope it works, too!

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  • Maytag Master
  • 8,220 Answers

Let me see if I can get a photo of the motor and pulley. Its tricky because if you mount the belt wrong it won't run. The slick side needs to be towards the drum and the belt CANNOT be in the groove on the drum
I bought a non-working LDE882 Maytag Dependable - themobilian_2195.jpg
The wires are all numbered to mate numbers on the motor switch. The lid switch can be tricky. I would check that and all the limits.

Posted on Apr 11, 2011

Testimonial: "Thanks for the quick response. I will check all this tonight."

  • 4 more comments 
  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Apr 11, 2011

    That's a nice dryer. Well worth fixing. My opinion

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Apr 12, 2011

    Ok I am gonna dig deep in my stuff and yank out a service manual for yall: Mid 90s maytag dryer

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Apr 12, 2011

    page seventy five shows the location of the duct fuse. If blown the dryer will not run. MORE:
    The blower wheel on these tends to wear out and slip, reducing the volume of air in the drum and causing overheating. Clean it up cheak all that and let me know dude.

  • docdcmail_co Apr 12, 2011

    See my reply under comments.

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Apr 13, 2011

    The wires are numbered for the dryness control to the board but I do not believe the dryness control has anythang to do with the motor running.

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Apr 13, 2011


    Took a few pics today of a dryer I worked on like yours

    I shoulda included see above pic. LOL


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