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Maytag Gemini, MER6772BCB. Top oven broil element blew, sparks, a little fire, right at the support. Shut everything down, Removed element, repowered unit, no display, no clock, no oven controls. Stovetop works, burners, but nothing else. Power is on, checked at connection on back of stove 220 V coming in. I can't see anything in the drawings or manual about a fuse or reset?

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  • terrym123 Apr 11, 2011

    I have not replaced the element yet, hopefully getting the correct part today. Can the dead display be a result of not having an element in place? I will try to determine if there is power at the display and inspect as close as possible, couldn't see anything from the open back of the panel though. Does the display/control operate on 120V or is it fed from the transformer at a lower voltage?

  • terrym123 Apr 11, 2011

    Thanks, I can check that when I get home, is the relay external to the circuit board do you think?

  • terrym123 Apr 12, 2011

    It appears there is power at the timer so I guess the timer is the only option, unless you have any other ideas. Thanks for the help.

  • terrym123 Apr 12, 2011

    When I enter the model number MER6772BCB and/or enter the part number from the parts list provided with the stove, (74004542) it crosses to this part number - CLOCK ASSY Whirlpool Corporation 12001661 in most cases. That's not the same part number you sent me, am I ordering the wrong part?

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  • Ovens Master
  • 2,605 Answers

Hello, Welcome to FixYa. It won't matter as far as the immediare issue, but have you replaced the broil element yet? Now to address the dead clock/timer issue...does the timer have power going into it ? If YES, and there is no display and no other function, the timer is damaged. I would remove the timer at thst point (mark the wires, take a picture, something ) open it up and visually inspect the circuit board for burnt relays, diodes, and the like. Let me know what you find and I'll see what I can do. It sounds like a case of a damaged control though. Thanks for choosing FixYa and good luck. Regards, Macmarkus :) Regards, Macmarkus :)

Posted on Apr 11, 2011

  • 2 more comments 
  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Apr 11, 2011

    Hello,



    Thank you for the reply Terry. The display itself does indeed operate at a lower voltage, usually 12 -24vDC via the transformer, however the timer as a whole should have 120vAC on terminal's L1 and 120vAC at L2 if you measure from either to the terminal marked "N" for neutral.



    The issue from the standpoint of not having the broil element should not have any bearing on those voltage readings, it will only show as an open broil element when trying to energize.



    I would hold off on purchasing a new element until you've diagnosed the timer since you will perhaps need to replace it as well, and the there's the issue of economics...at around $300 just for the timer control, is it worth it ? I'm sure it is compared to the cost of replacing the range, but it must be asked by yourself, it's your money.



    This is one of the downsides to electronic controls in my opinion...sure they're cheaper for them to make, but too sensitive to surges or shorted components. I wish the manufacturer would put some type of surge protection from the elements, but they know best :P



    Let me know what you find and I'll continue to help in whatever manner I can. Good luck.



    Regards,



    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Apr 11, 2011

    Hello again Terry,



    Let me back up a second. I was just looking at a diagram for your range and there actually is a "double line break" coming off of L2 before going into the timer.



    So check the voltages to the timer, if it is getting proper voltage, you'll need a timer. However it may just be the "double line break" relay.



    If you don't feel comfortable doing this please call a pro. It must be done "live" so take caution.



    Regards,



    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Apr 11, 2011

    Hey sorry for the delay, I'm actually out right now as well with only my iphone. I believe that relay will be remote from the main board. I will double check the schematic when I get home...though you may know by then.

    Regards,

    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Apr 12, 2011

    Hi Terry. Unfortunately it does point to the timer if there is voltage going into the timer.



    Check around for possible "rebuilt" or refurb. controls. Some places do offer them, but they are available new at most brick & mortar appliance part providers as well as on-line at places like "searspartsdirect.com" or "repairclinic.com" to name a couple.



    part number is 5701M403-60 and should include what's show here....






    Let me know how you make out or if I can help in any manner going forward. Good luck.



    Regards,



    Macmarkus :)

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