Question about Maytag MAH6700AWW Neptune Front-Load Washer

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My Neptune MAH6700aww started acting up yesterday. The machine shut off in the middle of a load. When I pushed the Cycle Selector Dial to restart the washer it did nothing. I continued to push random buttons and it still would not turn on. After doing this a few more times the washer came on and water started to go into the tub but the panel only stayed lit for about 8 seconds and it died again. I then pulled on the door (which was locked) and the washer started up again, only to die again after about 8 - 10 seconds. I finally did get it started up and finish the load of clothes but it died 2 more times in the process. Any ideas on what might be wrong with this would be appreciated! Thanks.

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First,can you run the units diagnostics from the tech sheet located inside the unit in an envelope(should be located near the top)of the unit if so this should pinpoint your problem,then remove any and all cables especially the smaller ribbon signal cables,as moisture is a big culprit of these problems in electronically controlled washing machines (one at a time) and then clean off and inspect for moisture,corrosion,etc.and wiggle their connections carefully as you re-install them,if these don;t help,then its your interface keypad in the front,main control board,or the motor control board in the bottom near the motor thats bad and needs replacing

Posted on Apr 11, 2011

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One of the common troubles experienced with Maytag Neptune Front Load Washers is the shutting down of the washer in the middle of the cycle intermittently or permanently. Later models with display will show a code "Lr or "Locked Rotor" signifying that no tach signal is detected by the machine control from the motor control. Earlier models will not display a code, but simply shut down and will not start.

The typical troubleshooting of the cause of the problem is by checking and ensuring the continuity of the connection between the machine control and the motor control. When the connection is good and the problem is not resolved, the motor winding is checked for continuity and the motor control is checked for component physical damage; such as blown fuse or burned semiconductor components.

The disappointing and frustrating scenario is when the motor windings are found to be okay and the motor control is apparently the cause of the problem; but the problem is not resolved when it is replaced. Typical troubleshooting suggests the machine control be replaced too; but the washer still does not want to start.

What is not well known is that the neutral line for the motor control is routed to the water valve solenoid terminals, not to the machine control. This connection must also be checked for continuity when such problem is experienced. Poor crimping of the wires to any the water valve solenoid neutral terminals may cause momentary loss of neutral feed from the power cord and result to the shutting down of the washer in the middle of the cycle.

Disconnect each of the white wire harness connected to each water valve solenoid and verify that the wire is proper stripped and crimped to the metal terminal connector of the wire harness. Make sure the wires fit snug on the terminals of the valve solenoids.

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