Question about Kenwood 12" 4-Ohm Single-Voice-Coil Subwoofer

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How can i remove the plastic cover from the magnet?, i need to fix the coil.

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You will not be able to fix the coil yourself, it will have to go back or to a specialist. the set up will be far to close tolerances and how are you going to reset it and balance. leave this to Kenny.

Posted on Apr 10, 2011

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Start makita dpc7331


Change out the coil. But check to see that the wire going from the coil to the switch is not grounded out prior to the switch. Turn switch in off position and have coil unplugged to test for continuity should be none. Flip switch to run and you should have continuity now. EBay $135.00 + shipping for a coil. Get yourself a T27 long reach screw driver for the bolts needed to take off. remove air filter and housing. remove starter recoil. remove sparkplug wire. cover around sparkplug 3 T27 screws 2 tward the carb side and 1 on the flywheel; side toward muffler, then lift off. coil 2 screws and wire for grounding the coil(stop the saw) has a spade connector disconnect. replace coil and put back together in reverse. Oh by the way you should have a pretty strong magnet in the flywheel if not your have to purchase a flywheel too or re-induce magnetism to it. Coil to flywheel Gap
? aprox .020 gap should work its about the standad for all 2 strokes but you will need brass feeler gauges because you set it at the magnet on the flywheel to the iron part of the coil sticking out of the plastic coil case.

Aug 29, 2013 | Makita Tools & Hardware - Others

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Lite-On optical drive open tray close tray problems


I've had my Lite-On LH-20A1S SATA connector optical drive for about three years, and in the past year or so it had become difficult to get the tray to open whether there was a disc in it or not. I had to push the button very hard and hold it for several seconds, releasing it, pushing it and doing this three or more times to get the tray to open. Then, in the past couple of months, closing the tray has become difficult, needing to push and hold the button very firmly. Even a paper clip would not open the tray, nor did using computer to "eject" to open the tray. I was about to look for a new optical drive to replace mine, but found a thread at forum that mentioned in Lite-On drives, the magnet that holds the spindle in place was too strong, which would prevent the tray from opening by prematurely wearing out the rubber belt. That person suggested putting a Duct tape padding or sticker on the inside of the puck (the plastic white disc that holds the magnet and makes direct contact with the spindle) would help reduce the strength of the magnet and make the tray open easily. Well, it did that, but the tape padding interfered with the spindle and caused a terrible whirring sound, making drive unable to play a disc. I figured the magnet had something to do with the problem, since Lite-On units are unique in using magnetic force to grab the spindle and lock the disc in place. I have a few Asus optical drives that do not have this feature.

Back to square one. Right idea, but wrong place to put the tape padding. I took unit out of case, opened it up and removed the Duct tape padding/sticker.

Here is what I did, making up my own descriptive names for the parts in question:

Remove optical drive from machine. No need to open unit up. Remove cover plate, these can be made of plastic, or on older units, of metal. With unit top side up, using sharp pocket knife, carefully pry around the cover plate (and label) to loosen the glue that holds it down, working knife in angled circular direction of plate. No need to go all way round, just enough to easily remove the contents: the white plastic puck.

Turn small metal twist cover in clockwise motion to unscrew it from plastic puck, being careful not to break off any of the three plastic tabs, as I had done the first time I unscrewed one (actually, I used a screwdriver to push one of the plastic tabs upright, thinking that was how it was held down, which broke it off). If you pay attention, you can easily see from the small twist cover that you unscrew it. Once lid is removed, you will see the 10mm metal magnet that is held magnetically to the twist cover. It has a hole in the centre. You can check magnetic strength with your screwdiver or pocket knife and find out just how strong Lite-On's magnet is. This magnet is what pulls the spindle up to secure the disc in place against the plastic puck, and if the magnet is too strong, it can stretch and prematurely wear the rubber belt as it refused to release the spindle. It can also cause the spindle to not fully pull away from puck when button is pressed to open tray or close tray, resulting in the spindle dragging along the inserted disc and scratching it. At least, this is what I believe happens. I'm not an engineer.

Next, double over a piece of Duct tape to make it two layers thick (sticky sides against each other) and measure and cut a 10mm or so circle. Remove the magnet from the small metal twist plate and use magnet as a pattern. Remember to replace and center the magnet back on the twist cover. You can adjust padding/sticker with scissors to make sure it will fit in the inner circle section of puck. Then with nail, poke a hole through the middle, making it large enough to fit over the centre post of puck. (I tried making a three layer circle padding, but it was too thick and wouldn't allow the magnet and twist cover to close down, so two layers is sufficient.) Use magnet and twist cover to depress the tape flat, then with counter clockwise motion, push thumb and secure the twist cover making sure the three tabs lock in their grooves. No need for glue in this project.

Place puck back on top of unit, and close the cover plate, pushing it down to secure it. If you need glue, then do so, but I didn't as the old glue was still sufficient to hold the plate in place.

Replace unit back in machine and test it.

Mine has been working as it should for two days now, whether I am in Linux or Windows XP. The button works as well as using "eject" from computer.

One person said replacing the belt worked, which they got at an electronics supply company. It makes sense that with the strong magnet used on these units, that the belt would wear prematurely. But this fixed it for me as I have no belts on hand, but do have Duct tape. I plan to replace the belt as soon as possible, though I still think choking down the magnet was a necessity. I have an Asus optical DVD/CD RW in the same case and it is the same age and has had no problem opening and closing the tray.

I was thinking another option would be to replace the magnet with something less magnetic. We have plenty of pliable magnets on our refrigerator, and wonder if making one to fit would work without the need of any diffuser padding.

(An update to say that I fixed a second one in such manner, a 2006 unit with IDE connector and it is working fine, too. Both units also play discs and I can burn from units.)

[url]http://hotimg23.fotki.com/a/4_90/63_164/IMG_0972-vi575.jpg[/url]




on Mar 07, 2011 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

The bass of my wowee one doesn't work anymore


The problem is most likely a broken solder connection on the the voice coil side of the bass transducer. I just repaired one and it was a 5 minute fix if you have a small soldering iron. Carefully pry off the glossy plastic cover where starting with the side the speaker slits (grill) are. It's just held in with some sticky adhesive (peel it up slowly, allowing the glue to separate without cracking the cover). Below that cover are 6 phillips screws. Unplug bass transducer's wire harness from the circuit board. IThe white connector comes apart with a small tug. The other end of the wire harness goes to the round, green transducer's board which contains the voice coil. Remove the transducer assembly (the round thing with with the clear Gel like substance). Carefully remove the gel surround and separate the round circuit board from the round magnet. One of the black or red wires will probably be disconnected. This is probably due to the a bad solder connection coupled with the constant vibrations. Simply re-solder the connection and re-assemble and you're good to go. When re-asembling the transducer, be sure to install the round board first and make sure it slips UNDER the raised lip inside of the Gel. If installed correctly the whole bottom of the round green board will be in full contact to the gel. Now install the magnet. The magnet should rest on TOP of the gel lip inside, the lip keeps the magnet raised slightly above the board and allows it to vibrate freely without touching the the round board and the voice coil (brown colored wire winding attached to green board. Hope this helps.

Mar 22, 2012 | Audio Players & Recorders

2 Answers

DVD drawer will not open lite on LVC-9016


I had this problem, and found that the cause was that the mechanism that lowers the disk spindle to allow the drawer to open was not strong enough to overcome the magnet that clamps the spindle into position when it it is closed. The following procedure fixed the problem:

Unplug the unit, and remove its outer cover (eight screws, four on the sides and four on the back)

Remove the thin metal cover over the DVD drive (four screws)

There is a round metal cover on the top of the drive. It is glued in place. Carefully pry it loose. Be careful not to bend it.

The spindle clamp assembly is beneath this cover. It consists of a plastic housing and a metal insert that holds a black fabric gasket and a small, donut-shaped magnet. Remove the entire assembly.

The metal insert is held inside the plastic housing by three bayonet-style prongs. Rotate the insert to free it, then remove it.

Remove the black fabric gasket and the magnet from the metal insert.

Here's where it gets a little strange. The problem is that the magnet is too powerful. Estimate its power by placing it on any iron or steel surface and note how much force is required to dislodge it.

In order to reduce its power, hold it over a range burner or torch for a minute or so. (Honestly, this amount of time is a guess. I "overcooked" my magnet to the point that it lost virtually all its power. The repair, however, was still successful.)

Check the magnet's power again by placing it on the same iron or steel object. It should be significantly weaker.

Reassemble the spindle clamp. Drop it back into place in the plastic top cover of the drive. Replace the thin, round metal cover over it. (In my case, the old glue was still good enough to hold it in
place. The spindle clamp will not pop out of the top of the drive- it is held down by gravity and by magnetic attraction to the spindle.)

Plug the unit in and test the drawer opening again. If it still strains but does not open, disassemble the spindle clamp assembly again and "cook" the magnet some more, then reassemble it.

After verifying that the drawer opens normally, replace the metal cover over the drive and the outer cover of the unit.

Dec 31, 2009 | Lite On LVC-9016G DVD Recorder/VCR

2 Answers

I turn on the machine, and the light just blinks on and off...no sound of water heating as with my other senseo. I took off the back, and all of the wires seem to be connected.


at the side of the machine by the water level you will see a float, sometimes this float gets stuck, use a magnet on the outside of the machine to connect with the magnet in the float and then slowly slide the magnet upwards, the float will follow the magnet and the light will flash slowly and the water will heat, if the light continues to flash rapidly you have not connected with the magnet - try again

Sep 23, 2009 | Philips Senseo HD-7810 Coffee Maker

2 Answers

The indicator light continues to blink rapidly


you are correct in thinking the problem is caused by the valve. Use a magnet to connect to the valve from the outside of the machine, slide the magnet very slowly upwards along the water level, the rapid flashing should stop and the water should begin to heat, if not try again as you have not connected the valve to the magnet

Sep 08, 2009 | Philips Senseo HD-7810 Coffee Maker

1 Answer

Sqeeky noise coming from bottom of machine. Plastic cover (with magnets) rubbing against electromagnetic coils. Is it caused dy plastic dish cover warping or worn bearing , etc ????


Check the mounting bolts, nuts, screws are tighten. Check with a appliance repairman, because of electric parts are involved. Hope this may be of some help.

Jun 02, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel Fisher & Paykel Washer

1 Answer

My film advance lever will not advance


First check for corrosion on the two battery contacts, and that the lower contact is still spring loaded and moves. Be sure you have a good battery by inserting it and checking with the battery test button by the rewind knob. If the lights and meter needle are working you're getting power. Remove the bottom cover and you'll see an electromagnet under a whitish plastic cover at the rewind end of the camera. Pull the magnet away from the coil by rotating the L shaped metal lever - you don't have to remove the white cover. Sometimes the magnet gets sticky. That should release the shutter. If it's really dirty, it might stick again. Be careful if you remove the white plastic since the magnet has fine wires that are easily broken, but you can clean the magnet interface.

May 30, 2009 | Canon EOS-AE-1 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

'Get-Jet' Airplane mover


Hi Freddie ignition- to- flyweel gap means flyweel magnet positioned under the ignition coil armature.Remove the flyweel.Check the flyweel key(if it is sheared off install a new one).Remove the ignition coil.Clean the flyweel magnet and the ignition coil armature.Check the ignition coil wires and terminal to have continuity.Remove the breaker points cover,check the condenser and breaker points(they should not to be burned).The ignition breaker point gap and ignition-to-flyweel gap is 0.020" and the spark plug gap is 0.030". regards savumihai71

Nov 01, 2008 | Briggs & Stratton Electrical Supplies

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