Question about Fisher and Paykel DG08 Electric Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have the same problem. Replacing the front glides (two glides cost under $20 plus labor and service call). The second time it seems to be more than the front glides. Service tech says that it is the blower moving back and forth on the motor shaft. (Because of a worn indentation on the shaft..). Therefore, he says that I must replace the motor and the blower--parts cost approx. $290, plus labor and service call. Ouch! Also says that the plastic front support piece is worn. More money! So, I am looking at a new dryer instead of trying to patch up the one I have (it's out of warranty.)
Posted on Dec 22, 2007
when you try to start it again do you hear a humming comeing from the motor? can you jump start it by turning the drum while holding the start button? If you say yes to these questions you have a bad motor.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
I had the same problem. Everyone continued to tell me that I needed a new heating element, clean lint trap, etc. However, I took the front off of the dryer and located the heating element. On the front of the heating element, in between two wires, there is a red button. Push the button and you might hear a click that sounds similar to a circuit breaker. It is a reset button for the heating element. Try that and it might help.
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
Entering the Diagnostic Mode
(a) Turn the power supply to the dryer on.
(b) Press and hold the Auto Dry down button, then press the Power
The dryer is now in level 0 of the diagnostic mode. After initial entry into the
diagnostic mode, the Start/Pause button operates the dryer as normal. Press
the Auto Dry up or down buttons to scroll through the fault levels.
There are several levels of diagnostics, most of which are used in
development and production. These levels may bring on various LEDs, but
the level of use for the service technician is that of the last fault.
To enter the last fault diagnostics, enter the diagnostic mode as described
above, then press the Auto Dry up button three times. The last fault will be
displayed on the drying progress LEDs.
The manual is here
Posted on Sep 08, 2009
If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.
Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:
The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.
When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)
The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.
This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But...if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.
Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace the heating element. You can check for an ohm reading but will need to refer to the service manual for proper reading. This sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on the dryer. Usually between 9-13 ohms.
Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork . This thermostat usually has four wires going to it. Check the 2 terminals that are opposite each other and are the closer together of the 2. These 2 terminals should have continuity. If not replace the thermostat.
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Posted on Oct 10, 2010
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