Question about Hoover SteamVac F5914-900 SpinScrub Upright Vacuum

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I have the Hoover Steam Vac Spinscrub 50 with heated cleaning. I noticed the brushes are spinning but no liquid is being suctioned to the container that houses the ball (to let you know when to empty the canister).

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

reddevil6
  • 1673 Answers

SOURCE: Problems with the Hoover Steam vac Heated carpet cleaner

This happens when the filter on the inside of the lid for the dirty water tank is pushed all of the way up. You need to leave a 1/4 in. gap from the top to the top of the filter.

Posted on Jan 10, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My Hoover steam vac spin scrub model 4060-900 brushes are not spinning and I have lost the manual. Any ideas. Thanks. bushteachers@yahoo.com

The problem I found with one a neighbor was tossing out is the bearings in the part that drives the brushes were stuck. Lubing them up solved the problem, but took a bit of work to get into. This also provides a good chance to clean the crud out of bits that usually don't get much attention. I found mine clogged with a fair amount of pet hair.


You'll need a Phillips & Flat Screwdriver, some light machine (3-in-1) oil or Lithium (white) grease, and a lot of patience. Having a pan or something handy to keep all the little bits organized would help.


First remove both the soap & recovery tanks, they'll just get in the way & are designed to be easily removed & replaced for filing/dumping. Be sure to fold the "wings" for the recovery tank in or they'll foul removing the cover later (as will the brush speed button).

The tricky part is getting the Brush Speed knob off. It's held on only by friction, but can be tough to pull for without breaking the plastic stick it's pushed onto.


Remove the brushes. There are 4 blocks between the outer & next in rollers. Put the flat screwdriver between the gray & clear plastic, pushing gently toward the brushes. This pushes a wedge away far enough from a hole in the gray plastic to "unhook" the brush housing from the main body. Once all 4 are clear, the brush assembly should pull out easily.

Remove the 2 big screws in front of the brushes and the one at the back of the clear plastic front of the vacuum bit. The small ones at the extreme front corners hold on the clear plastic front, and can be removed if you want to clean out the vacuum channel, but are not necessary to remove to remove the top.

Toward the back sides of the top are 2 slots that hold this part on. Once the front screws are removed & the front is loose, push the side in gently & you should be able to lift the back of the cover. Push in lift both side, the top should pop right off.

Now I have the top off, holding 2 black & 1 silver long screw. In the center-front of the new-exposed guts is a box with a round top & a cone at the front with 2 screws.

This is the Brush Motor Assembly, and it's actually vacuum-powered. Remove the 2 screws holding down the from, then look for 2 large holes on the bottom of the unit behind the black "squirter bar".

There's very long screws at the bottom of these holes that also hold down the brush motor.Once the 2 bottoms screws have been fully loosened & the top-front screws removed, the brush motor should pull up easily.

On the right is a square port, in front the the brush speed stick (where the gray button pops onto). on the left is a gray & black hose, these should pull off easily, but may have some liquid in them.

Pull out the brush motor & set it on a convenient spill-resistant work surface upside-down. You should see the square-hole drice for the brushes, a gray piece of plastic, & a cresent-shaped hole.

The port at the front & hole on bottom provide an air path for the vacuum to poll air through this assembly & spin the brushes. You should see 2 screws at the back of the motor & 2 more at the bottom of holes surrounded by the gray plastic. Remove all 4 screws.

You can now pull off the bottom cover with the gray plastic. Front to back you should see the brush drive gear, an intermidiate gear, ant one of the bearings for the fan that drives the whole thing. pulling out the bearing & gears to clean out this area & lube up the gears with some Lithium Grease helps, as well as making sure the bearing is well lubed with 3-in-1 oil and/or lithium grease.

The top is held on at this point with 4 platic clips. The top doesn't need to be removed unless you *really* have to see the fan. The clips can be broken off if one is not careful, and there's nothing in there to be lubed. Best to leave it as-is.

At the top of the driveshaft is a second sealed bearing. I couldn't figure out how to get it out without braking it, lube this one in place. The bearings are supposed to be sealed, so removing the black "washer" from the bearing is done completely at your own risk. I just put some oil on there, spun it to work it in, then repeated with the white grease.

Replace the intermediate gear, the brush drive gear, then the lower sealed bearing in that order. You can spin the gears to ensure they're spinning well. Mine was OK, but after a bit of use worked the grease in & the brushes really started spinning.

Keep in mind everything here except the screws is plastic, be creful to get a snug fit with the screws without overtightening. "Gorilla-ing" the screws will just break the plastic & make the whole adventure an exercise in frustration.

Reattach the bottom plate with all 4 screws, 2 in the holes in the gray plastic, 2 in the back.

Reattach the gray & balck hoses to the left side of the brush drive. They're 2 different sizes, so there's only 1 place the smaller hose will fit easily. Place the assembly back in the machine & replace the 2 screws in the front.

Flip the machine up so you can put the 2 really long screws back into the underside of the brush drive. There's 2 guide slots on either side, make sure the brush with the indicator wheel on top goes into the big hole on the right. You may need to spin the brushes a bit to get the center squure stick to line up with the hole in the drive gear. The brushes should pop back in easily if everything's lined up right.


Put the top cover on, making sure the Brush Speed stick & center screwhole line up, as well as the back sides snap into place.

Screw down the top, then flip the unit up so you can snap the bottom-front of the top over the gray wedges on the front, then screw into place.

Replace the Recovery Tank, fill & replace the solution tank, and test-drive.


Vanger Chevane.

Posted on May 27, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: the brushes on my steam vac won't spin

I used the suggestions found from a previous question found on your site.. thanks though. will recommend your site to all.

Posted on Aug 20, 2009

  • 691 Answers

SOURCE: My Hoover steam vac dual v's brushes will not spin

sometime when the brush is not turning their are less resistance to the motor, so it will turn allot faster than normal. The turbine gear assembly which connected to the brush assembly probably broken, all the gears are made out plastic and they can easily break,strip or worned over period of usage. the assembly cost around 20 bucks and it not that hard to replace and it not that hard to take it apart, just remember what goes where. I wonldn't surprise when taking the vacuum apart as you observed closely and inspect the brush unit and the turbine gear assembly you might easily spot what broken and need replacing. hope that help some; and if you don't want to fiddle with it, your local vacuum repair guy can probably do it for less than 40 bucks. you can go on-line vacuum parts.com

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

VacuumRepair
  • 438 Answers

SOURCE: My Hoover Steam Vac Spin Scrub aw/ Clean Surge

Greetings,

A few more things that you can try on your SteamVac. First remove the dirty water solution tank from the machine completely. You should see where the solution tank was just sitting, a plastic casing with a whole in it. This is actually where the suction from the motor goes into. Turn the machine on and feel the hole there for any suction coming out. Did you feel suction coming from the hole? If yes, then your issue is going to be something with the dirty solution tank, because without the tank it's sucking fine. If you didn't feel any suction from this hole, it may indicate that there is something more serious that needs to be taken care of.

One other place you may look on your machine (as long as the upholstery hose for stairs and furniture is already attached to the machine, and you don't have to hook anything up to the dirty water tank to use the attachments) while the dirty solution tank is out of it, is where the attachment hose makes connection with the vacuum. If you recline the handle down while you have the dirty water tank out, look in the back of the handle housing for a hose that enters the housing 3/4 down the housing. Now follow the hose on the inside of the handle not the outside, follow it up to the point where it goes into the neck, near where the suction hole is. Right at the end of the hose, right before the hose cuff, is this ripped, or damaged here?

Please feel free to request a clarification to this repair if you still need addtional help. If you can leave me the model number exactly that would help me help you, lol. I hope that this was helpful to you. If this was helpful to you, may you please click the helpful Thumbs Up Icon in the lower right hand corner of this repair?

Thank you so much,

Chris J.

Posted on Mar 21, 2010

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