Question about Hotpoint WMA54 Front Load Washer

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My machine is not draining and i have looked under the bottom panel but there is no draining point where do i drain the water out to see if theres a blockage???

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  • 6,277 Answers

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning!

Good luck!
John C

Posted on Apr 11, 2011

  • fairey_cakes Apr 11, 2011

    Hi thanks for the feedback but there is no filter anywhere, i've had the panel off and the back off but i still cannot find one. I emptied the water out (by opening the door, what a mess) and put it on a rinse and spin, when the washer was empty , It was fine worked perfect, but as soon as i put clothes in it it just filled up and didnt drain but the first time it drained fine i'm confused as to why with washing in it it will not drain have you any ideas??

  • john_cross Apr 12, 2011

    Hi again, there is no other small panel along the front behind the 'kick board' panel?
    As a thought can you hear the drain motor running from somewhere if you listen carefully? The filter (unless your washer does not have one which I really doubt!) will be physically 'before' the pump and the pump obviously feeds into the waste hose. I have details of WMA 30/40/50 but not 54, sorry!
    John C

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Take the bottom panel off and there is a large drain under the drum. There will be a lot of water that comes out, so be prepared. When you take the drain off, there should be a debis trap in there. Clean this out look to make sure there are no socks or anything in there.

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Dishwasher will not run. DW 101 how to fix


Start with the simple things and work your way from there. You will be amazed how many people call a plumber who flips a breaker or simply clears a stuck float valve (for $80 minimal fee).

If no lights are coming on.

First check the breaker to the machine.

If you have an exposed power source to the machine such as a plug or junction box open the box and check the wiring is intact and not rusted etc. Take care here and shut the breaker off first.

No go so far?

Check if your float valve is jammed.

The valve is a safety feature to stop the machine from over filling. If anything gets under the valve it will jam open and stop the machine.
Look inside the machine on the floor will be a small float valve. Looks like a small upside down cup. Lift it and clear anything from underneath.

Not the float valve either?

Check the door interlock latch.

Much like a washing machine a dishwasher will only operate with the door closed (or when it thinks it is closed!). There is a metal tab that engages a switch in the door. This is the same switch that activates as you operate the handle to open the door. If it is misaligned it will not signal the machine that the door is closed and the machine will not operate.

You can check this by overriding the locking tab. Put a screwdriver in the door latch and press the switch. You should see the lights come on and power flow to the machine.

Note: if the machine is in run mode you will get water spraying.

To fix this problem bend the tab to properly engage the switch. Or if necessary loosen the screws retaining the switch and move it to correctly align with the tab.

Not it?

OK now you are into electronics.

First is quite simple. Some units have an internal fuse to protect the control panel. Check that first. Take your time and take care. Turn the breaker off.

The control panel is screwed in place. Remove the screws and gently remove the control panel. Take care not to have parts of the door latch fall out or springs drop out etc. On newer units it is very simple as it is just a circuit board. Look for the fuse and check that it is OK. Replace if necessary with correctly rated thermal fuse.

=======================================================

Do you have water in the bottom of the machine?

Power is there, lights are one, seems to want to work. Water will come in but will not drain.

A small amount around the drain is normal for some machines. This is held to keep the pump primed in some units. However it should not fill the bottom of the unit. You know what it normally looked like so it if is full then you probably have a jammed float valve as above or a clog in the drain.

Drain clog.

Remove the cover from the drain in the bottom of the dishwasher. They usually lift out or have a few screws holding them down. Simple to figure out just take your time and try not to force anything. Look for a clog and clear if necessary.

Your drain can run either direct to the drain under the sink or to the disposal unit if you have one. The drain can clog at either point.

Check by disconnecting the drain line from the dishwasher where if connects to the sink or disposal unit. Look for a clog and clear if necessary.

Water exits the machine via the drain pump. If it is not operating the machine will not drain. It will fill usually to the point where the float valve lifts and does its job by stopping the machine before if floods your house.
If you have water in the machine to the point the float valve is lifted then drain it out first.

Your machine should be running now. Lights will come on and it will run again to the point where if fills with water and trips the float valve again. If so then check the pump and timer (see also timer below).

Remove the units as per below.

If your pump is belt driven check he belt (very few have belts).

If direct drive switch the unit on and let if run to the drain cycle. If the pump does not come on check for voltage at the pump during the drain cycle. If you have voltage replace the pump. If not it is the timer that is faulty (see below).

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OK now your are getting to some deeper issues. Not necessarily hard but only go here if the simple things are OK.

If you are not getting water into the unit but you have lights on and you hear clicking and the timer runs and things are trying to work then we know you have power and the timer is running.

No water coming to the unit.

Make sure nobody shut the supply line off. There should be a tap under the sink on the water supply line to the unit.

Turn the unit on an listen at the base for a click as the water supply solenoid (electric switch) opens. No click?

Check the solenoid. Remove the machine from under the counter. There will be screws holding it to the underside of the counter. You may have to lower the legs to get it out. They turn with a wrench to lower.

Under the unit where the water supply line comes in is a solenoid switch it opens to allow the water to enter the machine. Water comes in under household pressure (it is not pumped in by the unit). Chances are it is faulty. Replace it as it can't be serviced.

Still no luck?

The unit is guided by a timer. The timer tells the machine what to do and for how long. If it fails the unit will stop or jam in one cycle. If you have a physical switch the you turn to select the type of wash cycle check it. If you are all touch control then replace the whole board or machine.

To check the switch open the control panel above and use a voltage tester to see if you have current at each cycle point. Cleaning sometimes helps if not replace.

Hope this helps you. Please rate this tip for me.

Adrian

on Mar 09, 2010 | Dishwashers

Tip

Dishwasher general diagnosis


Start with the simple things and work your way from there. You will be amazed how many people call a plumber who flips a breaker or simply clears a stuck float valve (for $80 minimal fee). If no lights are coming on. First check the breaker to the machine. If you have an exposed power source to the machine such as a plug or junction box open the box and check the wiring is intact and not rusted etc. Take care here and shut the breaker off first. No go so far? Check if your float valve is jammed. The valve is a safety feature to stop the machine from over filling. If anything gets under the valve it will jam open and stop the machine. Look inside the machine on the floor will be a small float valve. Looks like a small upside down cup. Lift it and clear anything from underneath. Not the float valve either? Check the door interlock latch. Much like a washing machine a dishwasher will only operate with the door closed (or when it thinks it is closed!). There is a metal tab that engages a switch in the door. This is the same switch that activates as you operate the handle to open the door. If it is misaligned is will not signal the machine that the door is closed and the machine will not operate. You can check this by overriding the locking tab. Put a screwdriver in the door latch and press the switch. You should see the lights come on and power flow to the machine. Note: if the machine is in run mode you will get water spraying. To fix this problem bend the tap to properly engage the switch. Or if necessary loosen the screws retaining the switch and move it to correctly align with the tab. Not it? OK now you are into electronics. First is quite simple. Some units have an internal fuse to protect the control panel. Check that first. Take your time and take care. Turn the breaker off. The control panel is screwed in place. Remove the screws and gently remove the control panel. Take care not to have parts of the door latch fall out or springs drop out etc. On newer units it is very simple as it is just a circuit board. Look for the fuse and check that is it OK. Replace if necessary. ======================================================= Do you have water in the bottom of the machine? Power is there, lights are one, seems to want to work. Water will come in but will not drain. A small amount around the drain is normal for some machines. This is held to keep the pump primed in some units. However it should not fill the bottom of the unit. You know what it normally looked like so it if is full then you probably have a jammed float valve as above or a clog in the drain. Drain clog. Remove the cover from the drain in the bottom of the dishwasher. They usually lift out or have a few screws holding them down. Simple to figure out just take your time and try not to force anything. Look for a clog and clear if necessary. Your drain can run either direct to the drain under the sink or to the disposal unit if you have one. The drain can clog at either point. Check by disconnecting the drain line from the dishwasher where if connects to the sink or disposal unit. Look for a clog and clear if necessary. Water exits the machine via the drain pump. If it is not operating the machine will not drain. It will fill usually to the point where the float valve lifts and does its job by stopping the machine before if floods your house. If you have water in the machine to the point the float valve is lifted then drain it out first. Your machine should be running now. If so then check the pump. Remove the units as per below. If your pump is belt driven check he belt (very few have belts). If direct drive switch the unit on and let if run to the drain cycle. If the pump does not come on check for voltage at the pump during the drain cycle. If you have voltage replace the pump. If not it is the timer that is faulty (see below). --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK now your are getting to some deeper issues. Not necessarily hard but only go here if the simple things are OK. If you are not getting water into the unit but you have lights on and you hear clicking and the timer runs and things are trying to work then we know you have power and the timer is running. No water coming to the unit. Make sure nobody shut the supply line off. There should be a tap under the sink on the water supply line to the unit. Turn the unit on an listen at the base for a click as the water supply solenoid (electric switch) opens. No click? Check the solenoid. Remove the machine from under the counter. There will be screws holding it to the underside of the counter. You may have to lower the legs to get it out. They turn with a wrench to lower. Under the unit where the water supply line comes in is a solenoid switch it opens to allow the water to enter the machine. Water comes in under household pressure (it is not pumped in by the unit). Chances are it is faulty. Replace it as it can't be serviced. Still no luck? The unit is guided by a timer. The timer tells the machine what to do and for how long. If it fails the unit will stop or jam in one cycle. If you have a physical switch the you turn to select the type of wash cycle check it. If you are all touch control then replace the whole board or machine. To check the switch open the control panel as above and use a voltage tester to see if you have current at each cycle point. Cleaning sometimes helps if not replace. Hope this helps you. Adrian

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1 Answer

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Kill the power to the dishwasher at the electrical panel for the house. Remove the lower front panel of the dishwasher and disconnect the drain line where it connects to the drain pump near the floor. Expect and plan for about three cups of drain water. Disconnect the small pump and visually check it out. If there is debris in there, remove it. If not, keep looking by checking the length of the drain hose and the area under the sink where the drain hose enters the drain and the trap there. J.

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1 Answer

My dishwasher simply won't start


Start with the simple things and work your way from there. You will be amazed how many people call a plumber who flips a breaker or simply clears a stuck float valve (for $80 minimal fee).

If no lights are coming on.

First check the breaker to the machine.

If you have an exposed power source to the machine such as a plug or junction box open the box and check the wiring is intact and not rusted etc. Take care here and shut the breaker off first.

No go so far?

Check if your float valve is jammed.

The valve is a safety feature to stop the machine from over filling. If anything gets under the valve it will jam open and stop the machine.
Look inside the machine on the floor will be a small float valve. Looks like a small upside down cup. Lift it and clear anything from underneath.

Not the float valve either?

Check the door interlock latch.

Much like a washing machine a dishwasher will only operate with the door closed (or when it thinks it is closed!). There is a metal tab that engages a switch in the door. This is the same switch that activates as you operate the handle to open the door. If it is misaligned it will not signal the machine that the door is closed and the machine will not operate.

You can check this by overriding the locking tab. Put a screwdriver in the door latch and press the switch. You should see the lights come on and power flow to the machine.

Note: if the machine is in run mode you will get water spraying.

To fix this problem bend the tab to properly engage the switch. Or if necessary loosen the screws retaining the switch and move it to correctly align with the tab.

Not it?

OK now you are into electronics.

First is quite simple. Some units have an internal fuse to protect the control panel. Check that first. Take your time and take care. Turn the breaker off.

The control panel is screwed in place. Remove the screws and gently remove the control panel. Take care not to have parts of the door latch fall out or springs drop out etc. On newer units it is very simple as it is just a circuit board. Look for the fuse and check that it is OK. Replace if necessary with correctly rated thermal fuse.

=======================================================

Do you have water in the bottom of the machine?

Power is there, lights are one, seems to want to work. Water will come in but will not drain.

A small amount around the drain is normal for some machines. This is held to keep the pump primed in some units. However it should not fill the bottom of the unit. You know what it normally looked like so it if is full then you probably have a jammed float valve as above or a clog in the drain.

Drain clog.

Remove the cover from the drain in the bottom of the dishwasher. They usually lift out or have a few screws holding them down. Simple to figure out just take your time and try not to force anything. Look for a clog and clear if necessary.

Your drain can run either direct to the drain under the sink or to the disposal unit if you have one. The drain can clog at either point.

Check by disconnecting the drain line from the dishwasher where if connects to the sink or disposal unit. Look for a clog and clear if necessary.

Water exits the machine via the drain pump. If it is not operating the machine will not drain. It will fill usually to the point where the float valve lifts and does its job by stopping the machine before if floods your house.
If you have water in the machine to the point the float valve is lifted then drain it out first.

Your machine should be running now. Lights will come on and it will run again to the point where if fills with water and trips the float valve again. If so then check the pump and timer (see also timer below).

Remove the units as per below.

If your pump is belt driven check he belt (very few have belts).

If direct drive switch the unit on and let if run to the drain cycle. If the pump does not come on check for voltage at the pump during the drain cycle. If you have voltage replace the pump. If not it is the timer that is faulty (see below).

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OK now your are getting to some deeper issues. Not necessarily hard but only go here if the simple things are OK.

If you are not getting water into the unit but you have lights on and you hear clicking and the timer runs and things are trying to work then we know you have power and the timer is running.

No water coming to the unit.

Make sure nobody shut the supply line off. There should be a tap under the sink on the water supply line to the unit.

Turn the unit on an listen at the base for a click as the water supply solenoid (electric switch) opens. No click?

Check the solenoid. Remove the machine from under the counter. There will be screws holding it to the underside of the counter. You may have to lower the legs to get it out. They turn with a wrench to lower.

Under the unit where the water supply line comes in is a solenoid switch it opens to allow the water to enter the machine. Water comes in under household pressure (it is not pumped in by the unit). Chances are it is faulty. Replace it as it can't be serviced.

Still no luck?

The unit is guided by a timer. The timer tells the machine what to do and for how long. If it fails the unit will stop or jam in one cycle. If you have a physical switch the you turn to select the type of wash cycle check it. If you are all touch control then replace the whole board or machine.

To check the switch open the control panel above and use a voltage tester to see if you have current at each cycle point. Cleaning sometimes helps if not replace.

Hope this helps you. Please rate this tip for me.

Adrian

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1 Answer

Light on the lock stays on no other light will turn on dishwasher will not function.


Following is a complete trouble shooting process. Take what applies to you. I'd say the door interlock or float valve are most probable.

Start with the simple things and work your way from there. You will be amazed how many people call a plumber who flips a breaker or simply clears a stuck float valve (for $80 minimal fee).

If no lights are coming on.

First check the breaker to the machine.

If you have an exposed power source to the machine such as a plug or junction box open the box and check the wiring is intact and not rusted etc. Take care here and shut the breaker off first.

No go so far?

Check if your float valve is jammed.

The valve is a safety feature to stop the machine from over filling. If anything gets under the valve it will jam open and stop the machine.
Look inside the machine on the floor will be a small float valve. Looks like a small upside down cup. Lift it and clear anything from underneath.

Not the float valve either?

Check the door interlock latch.

Much like a washing machine a dishwasher will only operate with the door closed (or when it thinks it is closed!). There is a metal tab that engages a switch in the door. This is the same switch that activates as you operate the handle to open the door. If it is misaligned it will not signal the machine that the door is closed and the machine will not operate.

You can check this by overriding the locking tab. Put a screwdriver in the door latch and press the switch. You should see the lights come on and power flow to the machine.

Note: if the machine is in run mode you will get water spraying.

To fix this problem bend the tab to properly engage the switch. Or if necessary loosen the screws retaining the switch and move it to correctly align with the tab.

Not it?

OK now you are into electronics.

First is quite simple. Some units have an internal fuse to protect the control panel. Check that first. Take your time and take care. Turn the breaker off.

The control panel is screwed in place. Remove the screws and gently remove the control panel. Take care not to have parts of the door latch fall out or springs drop out etc. On newer units it is very simple as it is just a circuit board. Look for the fuse and check that it is OK. Replace if necessary with correctly rated thermal fuse.

=======================================================

Do you have water in the bottom of the machine?

Power is there, lights are one, seems to want to work. Water will come in but will not drain.

A small amount around the drain is normal for some machines. This is held to keep the pump primed in some units. However it should not fill the bottom of the unit. You know what it normally looked like so it if is full then you probably have a jammed float valve as above or a clog in the drain.

Drain clog.

Remove the cover from the drain in the bottom of the dishwasher. They usually lift out or have a few screws holding them down. Simple to figure out just take your time and try not to force anything. Look for a clog and clear if necessary.

Your drain can run either direct to the drain under the sink or to the disposal unit if you have one. The drain can clog at either point.

Check by disconnecting the drain line from the dishwasher where if connects to the sink or disposal unit. Look for a clog and clear if necessary.

Water exits the machine via the drain pump. If it is not operating the machine will not drain. It will fill usually to the point where the float valve lifts and does its job by stopping the machine before if floods your house.
If you have water in the machine to the point the float valve is lifted then drain it out first.

Your machine should be running now. Lights will come on and it will run again to the point where if fills with water and trips the float valve again. If so then check the pump and timer (see also timer below).

Remove the units as per below.

If your pump is belt driven check he belt (very few have belts).

If direct drive switch the unit on and let if run to the drain cycle. If the pump does not come on check for voltage at the pump during the drain cycle. If you have voltage replace the pump. If not it is the timer that is faulty (see below).

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OK now your are getting to some deeper issues. Not necessarily hard but only go here if the simple things are OK.

If you are not getting water into the unit but you have lights on and you hear clicking and the timer runs and things are trying to work then we know you have power and the timer is running.

No water coming to the unit.

Make sure nobody shut the supply line off. There should be a tap under the sink on the water supply line to the unit.

Turn the unit on an listen at the base for a click as the water supply solenoid (electric switch) opens. No click?

Check the solenoid. Remove the machine from under the counter. There will be screws holding it to the underside of the counter. You may have to lower the legs to get it out. They turn with a wrench to lower.

Under the unit where the water supply line comes in is a solenoid switch it opens to allow the water to enter the machine. Water comes in under household pressure (it is not pumped in by the unit). Chances are it is faulty. Replace it as it can't be serviced.

Still no luck?

The unit is guided by a timer. The timer tells the machine what to do and for how long. If it fails the unit will stop or jam in one cycle. If you have a physical switch the you turn to select the type of wash cycle check it. If you are all touch control then replace the whole board or machine.

To check the switch open the control panel above and use a voltage tester to see if you have current at each cycle point. Cleaning sometimes helps if not replace.

Hope this helps you. Please rate this tip for me.

Adrian

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1 Answer

WONT START LIGHT BLINKING


Following is a complete trouble shooting process. Take what you feel applies to you.

Start with the simple things and work your way from there. You will be amazed how many people call a plumber who flips a breaker or simply clears a stuck float valve (for $80 minimal fee).

If no lights are coming on.


Most probable is that your float valve is jammed.

The valve is a safety feature to stop the machine from over filling. If anything gets under the valve it will jam open and stop the machine.
Look inside the machine on the floor will be a small float valve. Looks like a small upside down cup. Lift it and clear anything from underneath.

Not the float valve either?

Check the door interlock latch.

Much like a washing machine a dishwasher will only operate with the door closed (or when it thinks it is closed!). There is a metal tab that engages a switch in the door. This is the same switch that activates as you operate the handle to open the door. If it is misaligned it will not signal the machine that the door is closed and the machine will not operate.

You can check this by overriding the locking tab. Put a screwdriver in the door latch and press the switch. You should see the lights come on and power flow to the machine.

Note: if the machine is in run mode you will get water spraying.

To fix this problem bend the tap to properly engage the switch. Or if necessary loosen the screws retaining the switch and move it to correctly align with the tab.

Not it?

OK now you are into electronics.

First is quite simple. Some units have an internal fuse to protect the control panel. Check that first. Take your time and take care. Turn the breaker off.

The control panel is screwed in place. Remove the screws and gently remove the control panel. Take care not to have parts of the door latch fall out or springs drop out etc. On newer units it is very simple as it is just a circuit board. Look for the fuse and check that it is OK. Replace if necessary.

=======================================================

Do you have water in the bottom of the machine?

Power is there, lights are one, seems to want to work. Water will come in but will not drain.

A small amount around the drain is normal for some machines. This is held to keep the pump primed in some units. However it should not fill the bottom of the unit. You know what it normally looked like so it if is full then you probably have a jammed float valve as above or a clog in the drain.

Drain clog.

Remove the cover from the drain in the bottom of the dishwasher. They usually lift out or have a few screws holding them down. Simple to figure out just take your time and try not to force anything. Look for a clog and clear if necessary.

Your drain can run either direct to the drain under the sink or to the disposal unit if you have one. The drain can clog at either point.

Check by disconnecting the drain line from the dishwasher where if connects to the sink or disposal unit. Look for a clog and clear if necessary.

Water exits the machine via the drain pump. If it is not operating the machine will not drain. It will fill usually to the point where the float valve lifts and does its job by stopping the machine before if floods your house.
If you have water in the machine to the point the float valve is lifted then drain it out first.

Your machine should be running now. Lights will come on and it will run again to the point where if fills with water and trips the float valve again. If so then check the pump and timer (see also timer below).

Remove the units as per below.

If your pump is belt driven check he belt (very few have belts).

If direct drive switch the unit on and let if run to the drain cycle. If the pump does not come on check for voltage at the pump during the drain cycle. If you have voltage replace the pump. If not it is the timer that is faulty (see below).

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OK now your are getting to some deeper issues. Not necessarily hard but only go here if the simple things are OK.

If you are not getting water into the unit but you have lights on and you hear clicking and the timer runs and things are trying to work then we know you have power and the timer is running.

No water coming to the unit.

Make sure nobody shut the supply line off. There should be a tap under the sink on the water supply line to the unit.

Turn the unit on an listen at the base for a click as the water supply solenoid (electric switch) opens. No click?

Check the solenoid. Remove the machine from under the counter. There will be screws holding it to the underside of the counter. You may have to lower the legs to get it out. They turn with a wrench to lower.

Under the unit where the water supply line comes in is a solenoid switch it opens to allow the water to enter the machine. Water comes in under household pressure (it is not pumped in by the unit). Chances are it is faulty. Replace it as it can't be serviced.

Still no luck?

The unit is guided by a timer. The timer tells the machine what to do and for how long. If it fails the unit will stop or jam in one cycle. If you have a physical switch the you turn to select the type of wash cycle check it. If you are all touch control then replace the whole board or machine.

To check the switch open the control panel above and use a voltage tester to see if you have current at each cycle point. Cleaning sometimes helps if not replace.

Hope this helps you. Please rate this tip for me.

Adrian

Mar 14, 2010 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

No pump activity


Following is Dishwasher 101.


Start with the simple things and work your way from there. You will be amazed how many people call a plumber who flips a breaker or simply clears a stuck float valve (for $80 minimal fee).

If no lights are coming on.

First check the breaker to the machine.

If you have an exposed power source to the machine such as a plug or junction box open the box and check the wiring is intact and not rusted etc. Take care here and shut the breaker off first.

No go so far?

Check if your float valve is jammed.

The valve is a safety feature to stop the machine from over filling. If anything gets under the valve it will jam open and stop the machine.
Look inside the machine on the floor will be a small float valve. Looks like a small upside down cup. Lift it and clear anything from underneath.

Not the float valve either?

Check the door interlock latch.

Much like a washing machine a dishwasher will only operate with the door closed (or when it thinks it is closed!). There is a metal tab that engages a switch in the door. This is the same switch that activates as you operate the handle to open the door. If it is misaligned it will not signal the machine that the door is closed and the machine will not operate.

You can check this by overriding the locking tab. Put a screwdriver in the door latch and press the switch. You should see the lights come on and power flow to the machine.

Note: if the machine is in run mode you will get water spraying.

To fix this problem bend the tap to properly engage the switch. Or if necessary loosen the screws retaining the switch and move it to correctly align with the tab.

Not it?

OK now you are into electronics.

First is quite simple. Some units have an internal fuse to protect the control panel. Check that first. Take your time and take care. Turn the breaker off.

The control panel is screwed in place. Remove the screws and gently remove the control panel. Take care not to have parts of the door latch fall out or springs drop out etc. On newer units it is very simple as it is just a circuit board. Look for the fuse and check that it is OK. Replace if necessary.

=======================================================

Do you have water in the bottom of the machine?

Power is there, lights are one, seems to want to work. Water will come in but will not drain.

A small amount around the drain is normal for some machines. This is held to keep the pump primed in some units. However it should not fill the bottom of the unit. You know what it normally looked like so it if is full then you probably have a jammed float valve as above or a clog in the drain.

Drain clog.

Remove the cover from the drain in the bottom of the dishwasher. They usually lift out or have a few screws holding them down. Simple to figure out just take your time and try not to force anything. Look for a clog and clear if necessary.

Your drain can run either direct to the drain under the sink or to the disposal unit if you have one. The drain can clog at either point.

Check by disconnecting the drain line from the dishwasher where if connects to the sink or disposal unit. Look for a clog and clear if necessary.

Water exits the machine via the drain pump. If it is not operating the machine will not drain. It will fill usually to the point where the float valve lifts and does its job by stopping the machine before if floods your house.
If you have water in the machine to the point the float valve is lifted then drain it out first.

Your machine should be running now. Lights will come on and it will run again to the point where if fills with water and trips the float valve again. If so then check the pump and timer (see also timer below).

Remove the units as per below.

If your pump is belt driven check he belt (very few have belts).

If direct drive switch the unit on and let if run to the drain cycle. If the pump does not come on check for voltage at the pump during the drain cycle. If you have voltage replace the pump. If not it is the timer that is faulty (see below).

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OK now your are getting to some deeper issues. Not necessarily hard but only go here if the simple things are OK.

If you are not getting water into the unit but you have lights on and you hear clicking and the timer runs and things are trying to work then we know you have power and the timer is running.

No water coming to the unit.

Make sure nobody shut the supply line off. There should be a tap under the sink on the water supply line to the unit.

Turn the unit on an listen at the base for a click as the water supply solenoid (electric switch) opens. No click?

Check the solenoid. Remove the machine from under the counter. There will be screws holding it to the underside of the counter. You may have to lower the legs to get it out. They turn with a wrench to lower.

Under the unit where the water supply line comes in is a solenoid switch it opens to allow the water to enter the machine. Water comes in under household pressure (it is not pumped in by the unit). Chances are it is faulty. Replace it as it can't be serviced.

Still no luck?

The unit is guided by a timer. The timer tells the machine what to do and for how long. If it fails the unit will stop or jam in one cycle. If you have a physical switch the you turn to select the type of wash cycle check it. If you are all touch control then replace the whole board or machine.

To check the switch open the control panel above and use a voltage tester to see if you have current at each cycle point. Cleaning sometimes helps if not replace.

Hope this helps you. Please rate this tip for me.

Adrian

Mar 09, 2010 | Bosch Dishwashers

1 Answer

Cleaning filter of bosch washing machine


If you experience a problem where the washer does not drain properly or the drain pump makes excessive noise, here's the information you need to check the drain pump:

Symptom: PUMP IS RUNNING, BUT NOT DRAINING PROPERLY.

1. Unplug the washer while servicing inside the unit.
2. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the three 7mm screws under the bottom edge of the panel. HINT: Use a couple of blocks of wood to prop up the front feet of the washer to gain better access to the screws. Once the screws are removed the panel should drop down, and then pull off. If the panel becomes stuck, a slight tap on either side will dislodge it.
3. Locate the drain pump. It will be located directly under the wash tub (it is the only pump this washer has).
4. There is an access removal cover on the pump that can be removed to clean out the trap. BEFORE doing this, it is strongly recommended that you remove all residual water from the wash tub & drain line or you will have about a gallon or so inside your washer and on the floor to clean up.
5. Here's a helpful way of quickly removing the residual water. If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum with the shop vac. This will empty the wash tub, pump and drain lines. If you don't own a shop vac, grab a bunch of old towels and open the access on the pump slowly so that it comes out at a trickle. Allow the towels to soak up the majority of the water. Close the access and stop the water if you need to get additional towels.
6. Open the pump access and remove once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.
7. Clean out the pump thoroughly and reinstall the access cover. Make sure the cover is snug, but do not over tighten.
8. Place the drain hose back in the standpipe (IMPORTANT - DO NOT FORGET!).
9. With the bottom panel still off, plug the washer back in and select the following on the operator console - DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN, and then press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the same button). "C00" will show on the console display as the washer begins diagnostics mode.
10. Check the drain pump for leaks as the washer fills. The pump is gravity filled and will hold water even it is not pumping. Allow washer to run through diagnostics until it begins the wash tub tumble cycle.
11. At this point, you can stop the diagnostics procedure by pressing PAUSE/CANCEL 2 times. The drain pump energizes and the washer will begin to drain.
12. If the drain pump works normal and there are no leaks detected, reinstall the bottom panel and tighten screws.


NOTE: It is normal to have residual water left inside the wash tub under the wash basket. This is why it is important to leave the door ajar when not in use so this water does not become sour.


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Mar 16, 2009 | Washing Machines

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