Question about Coleman Mach III Air Conditioner

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I need to find out if the ducting goes from side to side or front to back?

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Remove one of your diffusers and use a flashlight. Might need a mirror if it goes down then over.

Posted on Apr 10, 2011

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Duct work goes to crawl space. Apparently there is a flap in the duct work that constantly flaps back and forth like a loud ticking clock. How to stop it?


need to go ino crawl space and their should be a handle with a wing nut on the side of duct --the flap is an air flow reducer dont tighten with flap in closed position since it will shut air off from flap past

Aug 27, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Dryer "check vent" light goes on


if air coming out back is strong it might be a bad sensor somewhere

Feb 11, 2015 | Dryers

1 Answer

Air Duct Seal replacment


Try this website for the solution. http://www.partselect.com/PS265958-GE-WE14M92-Front-Air-Duct-Assembly.htm GE WE14M92 Front Air Duct Assembly PartSelect

Feb 28, 2014 | Frigidaire Dryers

1 Answer

My whirlpool dryer model LER4634EQ2 sometimes takes really long to dry a load of wash


most likely it's blocked with lint.all a dryer does is move air,if something is blocked the air can't move and it takes longer and longer to dry clothes.your lint filter is on top,unplug the dryer ,pull it away from the wall, disconnect the vent line,remove the back panel,on the left side you'll see a metal duct that the lint filter slides into,take that off and clean it out,first remove the lint filter and the two phillips screws that are in front of it on the top panel.now go in the back and remove the four screws that hold the duct in,clean out the duct and if you have a shop vac vac up any dust you see bakc there and then set it up to blow and blow through the blower wheel until it's clean,put the duct back into place,now if the vent line is long you can blow that out with a leaf blower,first go outside and make sure nothing is blocking the outside vent,if there's a cage or anything outside that's blocking the air from blowing out remove it and don't put it back,go back inside and blow out the vent line,put the dryer back together except the two screws in front of the filter on top,with a screw driver pop up the top lid,you'll see two 5 1/16 screws one on each side of the front panel around 2 inches down from the top,remove them disconnect the wire harness on the right side and then pull up one side at a time to remove the front panel,if you don't want to pull the drum use the shop vac to blow all the lint from in the back forwards and vac it up,put it back together and do a load,you should see a big change in the time it takes to dry the clothes.go here to see how to take dryer apart
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGIG8Wo5-N4
good luck and i hope this helps,i can't see it being a part because if a part goes bad it will work or it won't,the only other thing i can think of is the cycling thermostat could be bad or if you use cling free sheets lint could be stuck on the back of the t-stat,when you're in the back and have the duct off,look to the right down low,you'll see the t-stat with four wires on it,just remove the screws,don't have to disconnect any wires and look at the back of it,clean it off if you see any white film or lint on it,i've seen this happen before.hope this helps.

Mar 09, 2013 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Steam Vac Ultra five rotating brushes won't ****


ITS THE DUCT PIECE ON THE FRONT OF THE DIRTY WATER TANK (DWT). ITS NOT LINED UP.
1. TAKE LID OFF OF DWT
2. SLIDE THE LITTLE SQUARE PIECE (5'X5'X1) (THE DUCT) ON THE FRONT OF THE DWT AS FAR UP AS POSSIBLE AND IF IT BENDS FORWARD FROM THE TOP, DO THAT TOO (SOME MODELS OPEN LIKE A DOOR TOP DOWN, OTHERS JUST SLIDE UP AND OUT COMPLETELY)
3. SLIDE THAT DUCT BACK DOWN AS FAR DOWN AND BACK AS IT WILL GO.
4. PUT THE LID BACK ON BY HINGING THE FRONT LATCHES ON AND THEN SNAPPING THE BACK SIDE DOWN.
5. CHECK TO SEE IF THAT DUCT PIECE ON THE FRONT IS LOOSE BY PUSHING ON IT AND SEEING IF IT MOVES UP AND DOWN.
IF IT IS, THE LID ISNT COMPLETELY ON, GO BACK TO STEP 4.
IF THE DUCT IS SNUG, CONGRATS YOU SHOULD HAVE JUST MADE YOUR STEAM VAC **** UP THE WATER AGAIN.

Dec 18, 2012 | Vacuums

1 Answer

There is no suction


ITS THE DUCT PIECE ON THE FRONT OF THE DIRTY WATER TANK (DWT). ITS NOT LINED UP.
1. TAKE LID OFF OF DWT
2. SLIDE THE LITTLE SQUARE PIECE (5'X5'X1) (THE DUCT) ON THE FRONT OF THE DWT AS FAR UP AS POSSIBLE AND IF IT BENDS FORWARD FROM THE TOP, DO THAT TOO (SOME MODELS OPEN LIKE A DOOR TOP DOWN, OTHERS JUST SLIDE UP AND OUT COMPLETELY)
3. SLIDE THAT DUCT BACK DOWN AS FAR DOWN AND BACK AS IT WILL GO.
4. PUT THE LID BACK ON BY HINGING THE FRONT LATCHES ON AND THEN SNAPPING THE BACK SIDE DOWN.
5. CHECK TO SEE IF THAT DUCT PIECE ON THE FRONT IS LOOSE BY PUSHING ON IT AND SEEING IF IT MOVES UP AND DOWN.
IF IT IS, THE LID ISNT COMPLETELY ON, GO BACK TO STEP 4.
IF THE DUCT IS SNUG, CONGRATS YOU SHOULD HAVE JUST MADE YOUR STEAM VAC **** UP THE WATER AGAIN...

Dec 07, 2012 | Vacuums

1 Answer

My Hoover SteamVac F5915-900 will not pick up water. I've taken the resavor off several times trying to make sure nothing is under it's lid and replaced it as instructed. I don't know wh


ITS THE DUCT PIECE ON THE FRONT OF THE DIRTY WATER TANK (DWT). ITS NOT LINED UP.
1. TAKE LID OFF OF DWT
2. SLIDE THE LITTLE SQUARE PIECE (5'X5'X1) (THE DUCT) ON THE FRONT OF THE DWT AS FAR UP AS POSSIBLE AND IF IT BENDS FORWARD FROM THE TOP, DO THAT TOO (SOME MODELS OPEN LIKE A DOOR TOP DOWN, OTHERS JUST SLIDE UP AND OUT COMPLETELY)
3. SLIDE THAT DUCT BACK DOWN AS FAR DOWN AND BACK AS IT WILL GO.
4. PUT THE LID BACK ON BY HINGING THE FRONT LATCHES ON AND THEN SNAPPING THE BACK SIDE DOWN.
5. CHECK TO SEE IF THAT DUCT PIECE ON THE FRONT IS LOOSE BY PUSHING ON IT AND SEEING IF IT MOVES UP AND DOWN.
IF IT IS, THE LID ISNT COMPLETELY ON, GO BACK TO STEP 4.
IF THE DUCT IS SNUG, CONGRATS YOU SHOULD HAVE JUST MADE YOUR STEAM VAC VACUUM UP THE WATER AGAIN.

Jul 21, 2012 | Hoover SteamVac F5914-900 SpinScrub...

1 Answer

Our tv goes off with out warning and wont come on for like ever


Beat the front and sides with sledge hammer and you will need to open up back and place 1/4 stick dyno-mite and secure to lamps with duct tape and cut her loose. I'm sure this will cure any and all of the problems.

Jan 27, 2011 | Mitsubishi WS-65809 65" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

I have A commercial hoover steamvac spinbrush cleaner and it will not bring up any dirty water


ITS THE DUCT PIECE ON THE FRONT OF THE DIRTY WATER TANK (DWT). ITS NOT LINED UP.
1. TAKE LID OFF OF DWT
2. SLIDE THE LITTLE SQUARE PIECE (5'X5'X1) (THE DUCT) ON THE FRONT OF THE DWT AS FAR UP AS POSSIBLE AND IF IT BENDS FORWARD FROM THE TOP, DO THAT TOO (SOME MODELS OPEN LIKE A DOOR TOP DOWN, OTHERS JUST SLIDE UP AND OUT COMPLETELY)
3. SLIDE THAT DUCT BACK DOWN AS FAR DOWN AND BACK AS IT WILL GO.
4. PUT THE LID BACK ON BY HINGING THE FRONT LATCHES ON AND THEN SNAPPING THE BACK SIDE DOWN.
5. CHECK TO SEE IF THAT DUCT PIECE ON THE FRONT IS LOOSE BY PUSHING ON IT AND SEEING IF IT MOVES UP AND DOWN.
IF IT IS, THE LID ISNT COMPLETELY ON, GO BACK TO STEP 4.
IF THE DUCT IS SNUG, CONGRATS YOU SHOULD HAVE JUST MADE YOUR STEAM VAC **** UP THE WATER AGAIN

Jan 01, 2011 | Hoover SteamVac F5914-900 SpinScrub...

1 Answer

Need to replace the thermostat in a 1994 Toyota Camry


1. Look up along the lower radiator hose. It will plug into a metal tube on the engine side. Follow the metal tube. It goes to a housing. The housing is kind of buried in the driver's side of the engine. There are 2 smaller coolant tubes plugged in above it. You do not need to touch those, although it looks at first glance like you do.
2. Disconnect lower radiator hose at the metal tube.
3. Disconnect fan switches 1 and 2. These are on elecrtical harnesses going to this housing.
4. Disconnect a sensor on the front of the engine, just above the lower hose. I believe this is the knock sensor, but I'm not sure.
5. Now for the fun part. There are 3 bolts holding this housing on. You can see one at the top. There are 2 others underneath it, such that the bolts form a triangle pattern. You will have to get the bottom 2 out by feel (blind). They are 10mm.
6. Also, if you look to the front of the housing, you will note another 10mm bolt on the front holding down a black plastic leg. This is a wiring harness duct. Remove that bolt. Trace back along the duct. There is one more bolt on the driver's side retaining the duct. There is also one on the back of the engine at the firewall / driver's side. Remove these 2 as well.
7. There is a 12mm bolt holding the metal tube from that housing to the driver's side. Remove that bolt.
8. Gently pry the plastic wiring duct toward driver's side, and back toward firewall. You have just enough to get it off of the stud on the thermostat housing.
9. Now you can pull the housing. It will not come all the way out. It will come loose enough to give you just enough clearance to remove the thermostat (barely). Once you remove the thermostat, you have to pass it downward and toward the firewall to fumble it out.
By the way, you will notice that the metal tube is kind of wiggly in the thermostat housiung. This is normal.
10. Pass the new thermostat in the same way you got the old one out. Make sure when you plug it in that it has an air bleed poppet, and that this poppet is facing up.
11. Reassemble by reversing removal. Getting the nuts / bolts back in blind is... fun...
I don't know the torque spec. You can get a torqure wrench in there barely if you get creative with extensions, knuckles, etc. I wouldn't go abouve 8-10 ft-lb.

May 01, 2009 | 1998 Toyota Camry

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