Question about Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

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Whilrpool 5 cycle 3 temp electric dryer has heat but will not turn

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  • Master
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If you can hear the motor running then most likely the belt has broken on the inside here is a video on how to change the belt if you have any further questions message me back and please remember when our chat has fully concluded to rank this opinion it allows me to help others in similar situations in the future Thanks again Rick
here is your link click here http://www.youtube.com/user/RepairClinic?v=zpUqCrLaI7g&feature=pyv&ad=5544346181&kw=dryer%20belt&gclid=CMeM1PW5kKgCFYje4AodDWpmCw

Posted on Apr 09, 2011

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  • Whirlpool Master
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley or a faulty motor.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the screws that hold the filter housing.
Then remove the top of the dryer.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Posted on Apr 09, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Tip

Whirlpool Dryer Various Test Procedures - Part 2


TEST #4 Heater
This test is performed when either of the following situations occur: Dryer does not heat Heat will not shut off
This test checks the components making up the heating circuit. The following items are part of this system:
Harness/connection, Heater relay, Thermal cut-off, Thermal fuse, High limit thermostat, Gas burner assembly,
Centrifugal switch, Exhaust thermistor, Machine control electronics, Gas supply. Dryer does not heat:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Remove the back panel to access the thermal components.
3. Perform TEST #4b. If the thermal fuse is OK, go to step 4.
4. Perform TEST #4c. If the thermal cut-off is OK, go to step 5.
5. Locate the high limit thermostat. Measure the continuity through it by connecting the meter probes on the
red wire and blue wire terminals. If there is an open circuit, replace the high limit thermostat and thermal cutoff.
Otherwise, go to step 6.
6. Perform TEST #4d. If this is OK, replace the machine control electronics.
Heat will not shut off:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the machine control electronics, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (red-white wire) at the connector. If 5–15 k ohms are measured, replace the machine control electronics. If the resistance is greater than 20 k ohms, replace the exhaust thermistor.
TEST #4a Exhaust Thermistor
The machine control electronics monitors the exhaust temperature using the exhaust thermistor, and cycles the heater relay on and off to maintain the desired temperature. Begin with an empty dryer and a clean lint screen.
1. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
2. Start the Timed Dry cycle.
3. If after 60 seconds, F-22 or F-23 flashes in the display and the dryer shuts off, the thermistor or wire harness is either open or shorted. Unplug dryer or disconnect power. Check wire connections at the machine control electronics and thermistor. If wire connections are OK, check exhaust thermistor resistance per step 5.
4. If F-22 or F-23 does not flash in the display, the connections to the thermistor are good. Therefore, check the exhaust temperature value at any or all of the temperature levels in question, using the Timed Dry cycle, and the following process: Hold a glass bulb thermometer capable of reading from 90° to 180°F (32° to 82°C)
in the center of the exhaust outlet. The correct exhaust temperatures are as follows:
TEMP
SETTING HEAT TURNS
OFF* HEAT TURNS
ON High 155° ± 5°F
(68°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Medium 140° ± 5°F
(60°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Low 125° ± 5°F
(52°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Extra Low 105° ± 5°F
(41°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature The measured overshoot using the glass
bulb thermometer in the exhaust outlet can
be 30°F (17°C) higher.
5. If the exhaust temperature is not within specified limits, or you have come here from step 3, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (redwhite wire) at the connector. If the resistance is OK, check P14-3 and P14-6 to machine ground. If resistance is greater than 0 (zero), replace wiring harness. NOTE: All thermistor resistance measurements must be made while dryer is
disconnected from power. The following table gives temperatures and ranges for the associated thermistor resistance values.
Temp
F C
Res
kΩ
Temp
F C
Res
kΩ
50° (10°) 19.0 -22.0 80° (27°) 8.5-10.5 60° (16°) 14.8-16.8 90° (32°) 6.8-8.8 70° (21°) 11.5-13.5 100° (38°) 5.0-7.0 If the thermistor resistance does not agree with table, replace the exhaust thermistor. If the thermistor resistance checks agree with the measurements in the table, replace the machine control electronics.
TEST #4b Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is wired in series with the dryer drive motor.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the thermal fuse by first removing the back panel.
3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal fuse. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit,
replace the failed thermal fuse.
TEST #4c Thermal Cut-Off
If the dryer does not produce heat, check the status of the thermal cut-off.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the thermal cut-off by first removing the back panel. .
3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal cut-off. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit,
replace the failed thermal cut-off and high limit thermostat. In addition, check for blocked or improper exhaust
system.

TEST #4d Gas Valve
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the gas valve by removing the front panel and drum assembly.
3. Use an ohmmeter to determine if a gas valve coil has failed. Remove harness plugs. Measure resistance across terminals.

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1 Answer

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Could be overheating. It just may need a good cleaning. and make sure the dryer vent is clear with no obstructions. You may need to take some panels off. Also may be the gas valve solenoid.

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Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.



if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....



If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.



check out this electric no heat tip...


heatman101

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1 Answer

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I have a ref. thermometer, round metal type I got a Wal-Mart that I check the dryer temp at the discharge. I bent the metal bottom so I can lodge it in the discharge pipe, turn the dryer on and watch the temp. Normally on high heat it will go up to 140-150 and cool down to 120-125 then cycle back on.

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you may have a problem with the motor. this is the only device that would turn off the whole machine for 3-5 seconds.
there is this contact switch that would be held close by the motor once the motor is running normally until you reach the end of cycle.

but if there is problem with the motor, it has this over current device that would turn it off.
once off, the contact that it was holding to keep the unit running would open up and stop the unit from running.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

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