Question about Husqvarna 16" Chainsaw Chain Saw Bar 508912166

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Where can I find an extra long bar and saw chain (at least 48", 60" better). I have a one-time cutting job that I cannot find a mill to accommodate, so I'm wondering if a long bar and patience will allow me to do it myself. Where do I look to investigate the possibilities?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: bar oiling problem

Just a thought: Is it cold where you are? At this saw mill where it is my job to keep chain saws running, learned years ago that you cannot use "bar oil" in winter. Need thinner oil, like motor oil. ....preferably a "non-detergent" motor oil, plain 30-weight is OK, HD30W will work, but the HD part causes the chain to stretch more so than standard bar oil. The bar oil literally is so thick in cold that it stripped the worm gear out of a Poulan Pro oil pump (plastic gear, anyways, wasn't much to begin with.) But thought you may want to try thinner oil, if it is cold where you are. Oh yea we also have 2-Husqvarna 359's with 20-inch bar, and use thinner oil in winter. Our Husqvarnas have an oil adjuster located on bottom, on clutch side. Straight slot screw adjustment.

Posted on Nov 19, 2008

  • 211 Answers

SOURCE: husqvarna chain saw, model 455 will not oil properly bar and chai

hi cindilou50
check the oil filter from the oil tank,the oil line ,the worm gear and the oiler under the clutch.Clean the ways where the oil goes with compresed air.(after you fill out the oil tank)Also check the oil hose.

best regards savumihai71

Posted on Dec 01, 2008

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: HUSQVARNA MODEL 50 BAR AND CHAIN UPGRADE

I have a nearly worn out 42 cc Husquvarna that uses a 20 inch bar very successfully. With proper filing of the chain you should be able to run a 22 inch bar very well. Ensure that the roller nose on your new bar matches the pitch of the clutch sprocket that you are using at present. If not, have your chain saw shop change them so they match.

I would advise that you change the bar and sprocket to use a .375 chain as this will be easier to sharpen successfully than the .325 pitch chain you might be presently using.

I am six feet tall and short bars are murder on my back so this is why I use no shorter than 20 inch bars on my saws.

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

  • 4088 Answers

SOURCE: Have 455 with oiling problem. Replaced oil pump

Remove the bar and chain again, and check the two small oil passages that run out to the chain groove on either edge of the bar for plugging--they commonly fill with sawdust and dirt. Clean the entire chain groove, then reinstall the bar and chain. Make sure the bar fits up to the engine case tightly and that the chain adjustment 'tang' drops into one of the large holes in the bar end. There is usually a rubber seal on the engine case side where the oil oozes out--make sure it is intact and in place. Hope this helps!

Posted on Sep 09, 2010

  • 144 Answers

SOURCE: replacing bar on husqvarna 340 saw. Appears to be

Sounds like the blade brake is engaged. You should be able to pull the blade brake handle, located on top of the saw, in front of the top handle, back towards the handle to disengage it. You can find replacement bars, chains & sprockets for your saw at Partsbuggy.com.

Posted on Dec 14, 2010

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Homelite chainsaw how to install a chain


HOW 2 TRUE UP YOUR BAR SO THE SAW CAN CUT STRAIGHT and
HOW TO replace a chain.
This is for first timers--so dont laugh too hard,all you old timers out there!
and maybe some of you old timers
should read this too, as you might pick up a trick or two.
You might say ," I always wondered why it did that and how to fix it."


first ,you need the proper chain to install so look at your owners manual for the chain number. or use oregon.com cross reference
you will need the make & model # of you saw as well as the bar length and their web site will cross reference you to a oregon chain #.

to install chain: loosen two shiny 3/4 inch bolts on the bar side of the chain saw and look low on the right side of the bar when viewed from the back handle of the saw for the chain tensioning screw.
it is black and has a single slot for a screwdriver.
loosening this screw (but only after the two 3/4 inch BAR LOCK DOWN nuts have been loosened ) will move the bar backwards towards the engine clutch sprocket.

look at the chain mounted on the bar and note the front of the teeth on top of the bar pointed forwards. also note that on the bottom of the bar ,the chain teeth are pointed backwards toward the saw handle.
REMemBER THIS ,so you dont put on the chain backwards and wonder why a new chain wont cut.

take the 3/4 inch nuts off compleatly and hold the bar on so you can see how things should look. you can put 1 nut back on snug to hold the bar in position while you learn your way around.
someplace inside there is a plastic raised picture of a chain tooth to remind you which way the chain teeth go.

there is a sheet metal chain guard sheild on the 2 studs that the 3/4 in nuts came off from. the bottom of the sheet metal guard has a 2&1/2in slot in it and the wings on top & bottom point outwards on the outside shield and inwards on the inside sheild .
P.S. the slots on the bottom of the shield allow the chain tensioner nib to move forwards to tighten the chain and backwards to loosen the chain.
remove the hold on 3/4 nut and take 1 outside sheet metal shield off the studs.

look at the chain bar underneath the two studs that the 3/4 inch nuts came off from. You will see the tip of the chain adjuster tensioning screw fitted through a hole in the bar.
now loosen the chain tension adjustment screw which will move the bar backwards and make the chain loose.
when the chain gets loose enough , you can remove it from the bar. but ,I bet that the will come off or fall off first. dont worry,this normal.after you take the chain off,you have to take the bar off anyways.
wipe the oil & saw dust off the chain,so you can see out of your good eye, like one eyed pete always says, and look at the bar rails.

these are the two rails that the chain drive teeth, the ones that go around the clutch sprocket and the idler sprocket at the tip of the bar ,fit into.
THESE rails must each be the same length or the saw will try to cut circles to either the right or the left. also, the chain teeth must be equally sharp on both the right side facing teeth and on the left side facing teeth, or again, the saw will try to cut circles either to the right or left. The only reason the saw cant cut circles is because the bar is too wide to make the circle. anyways ,the saw is susposed to cut straight and not in circles.


If your saw it cutting right or left,when you get far enough into a curved wood slot , you will reach a point where the chain teeth can no longer touch the wood and cutting stops, even though the motor is still turning the chain.

so,first we need to insure that the bar rails are even with each other and HERE is one way to do it.
Buy some 60 grit emery cloth and put it on a flat table top.
I use the top of my table saw, but any flat table top will work if the table is stable.
Place the bar with the rails perpendicular to the 60 grit emery cloth. THat means --at right angles to,or at 90 degrees,or straight up & down and sand the metal bar until
the rails are even and all chain chatter marks have been sanded off. This is usually the fine finishing step of severly
worn and burnt bars and works well for lightly worn bars.

ANOTHER WAY for really messed up bars is to hold the bar straight up & down on top of the table, with either your hand or clamp it in a bench vise.
DO NOT SQUEEZE THE RAILS together or the drive links of the chain wont be able to fit in the slot and even if they do fit in,they may not run in the slot because the slot is too tight;and that might burn out your centrifical clutch shoes or your electric chain saw motor.

Use first a course double cut metal file to even the chain rails of the bar and then a fine double cut or single cut file to do finishing strokes and then sand with 60 grit emery cloth as above.

Take the file and run it across the 4 inch wide sides of the bar where the rails are worn over the edge so that only a right angle, square edge remains between the 4 inch wide sides of the
bar and the bar's chain running rails.
this will allow the bar to go easily up and down in a wood slot without getting caught and binding and requiring extra force to free up, only to get stuck again & again.

IF YOUR BAR is too messed up for even a file to cure.
use the 6 inch or 8 inch side of a grinding wheel, to true up
the rails. a lighter grit ,like 100 grit circular stone is better than a 60 grit stone ,because the stone is fast and takes off a lot of metal quick . you can use a 60 grit wheel if you have a light sure touch and can see well out of your good eye but an old artheritis riden , and almost blind out of my good eye
unelse im wearing 2.75 power reading glasses , which always slip off my nose when im grinding anyways, id rather use the 100 grit,because its slower, like i am.

YET ANOTHER WAY to true up your bar is to use a bench sander with 60 grit belt. It does a good job , but eventually
you will cut through and rip your belt and have to spend $10.00 to replace it. thats why I dont use it much anymore
after ruining 1 belt & replacing it. But its great for those problem rails and beats spending $30.00 plus tax and $12.95 shipping for a new bar.

SO. now that your bar is all trued up ,we can finally put on the new chain.

You should save you old chain and buy a chain sharpening file and clip on angle holder for the size of file recommended for your model chain. cost about $10.00 and you can get 10 to 15 resharpenings out of one chain
before you end put taking too much metal off the cutting teeth or stretch the chain out too far or break off too many teeth by hiting nails in the wood. (ive done it all) and speak from experience.

NOW, PUT THE BAR back on and make sure that the nub of the chain tensioning screw is in the hole in the bar. You can put 1 3/4 in shiny bar lock down nut on finger snug to things in place. next ,put the chain shield back on the studs and insure that the slot is down [on the bottom side] and that the tenisioner screw nub is still in the hole of the bar and that the shield wings are angled outwards. make sure that the tensioner is all the way towards the back saw handle so the bar is loose and install the chain on to the bar with the cutting teeth facing forward on top of the barand backwards on the bottom of the bar. all the drive teeth should be inside of the top bar rails and should be properly engaged on the clutch sprocket.
If need be ,check the clutch sprocket engagement of the chain's drive teeth by removing the outer shield to look see
and reassemble. place the plastic cover on the 2 bar lock down studs and finger tighten the two-3/4 inch lock down nuts . I usually finger tighten only one of the 3/4 inch lock down nuts in case something pops out from where it is susposed to be ,as it usually does.
NOW, take all but a little bit of tension off the 3/4 inch lock down nut so that they bar can move forward when the screw tensioner is tightened. AS you tighten the bar, the drive teeth will be pulled into the rail slots on the bottom of the bar.
You will need a look see to insure all the drive teeth are inside the rails. Tighten up the chain until it has about 1&1/2 inch slack in the center of the bar and tighten up finger tight
one or both of the bar lock down nuts. now test the chain for free running by turning the chain by hand.
BE VERY CAREFUL where your fingers pinch the chain between thumb and index finger because you dont want to pinch a cutting tooth. you also dont want to loose your grip and have your fingers slip into a cutting tooth.
If you start with the chain somewhat loose,you will feel how easy it is to turn the chain by hand. as you tighten the chain,
it will become harder and harder to turn until it locks solid into place.
WHEN THE CHAIN GETS HARD to turn,this is when you can loose your two finger grip and have your fingers slide into a cutting tooth. the chain is already too tight to run without burning up the clutch a little. loosen the chain until it runs freely but does not sag more than a 1&1/2 INCH TO 2 INCHES in the middle of the bar. There is a point where the chain will not run any more freely even if it is loosened more.
if you hit this point tighten up the chain some until you feel it begining to run harder. check the chain sag tension11/2 inch in the middle of the bar or 2 inch max if the chain seems to be running a little hard.

Its better to have the chain a bit loose that a bit tight but you dont want the chain so loose that it will come off the bar.
new chains stretch a lot a first and will have to be readjusted twice as much as an older chain that is done with most of its stretching.

Jun 13, 2012 | Craftsman sears 18" Chain Saw Chain (...

1 Answer

Hello, I have a TYOBI 18in. 40cc Chain Saw model No. RY10532. Problem is that oil isn't being supplied to chain to lube while running. How can I fix this issue w/o taking it to repair shop. Thanks in...


The bar groove has a hidden slot place close to one of the 2 bolts that hold the bar where the bottom of the chain groove is connected to the hole in the side. This side hole lines up with another hole in the metal plate covering the oil tank area - bent angles go away from the bar and you should see a free hole and slot system between the oil tank passing straight through to the bar and then on to the bar chain slot to get at the chain links. Sawdust will tend to clog up in here as it runs under the chain on the bottom, so your chain oil gets cut off naturally. You can use a paper clip to poke it out. The tension pip must go into the proper hole also, so just use hand tight on one bolt at first and check that the tension screw makes the bar move so that the chain is seen going up and down underneath. Now adjust so that only one pound of pull with your left hand on the chain underneath exposes three of the chain's teeth completely from the bar - no more than that and no less! Now tighten the two bar bolts to spec. This will change as the bar gets very hot. Next take two caps full of chain/bar oil and oil up all the chain before starting. It goes up to 12,000 rpm so you can never have too much oil. Click your chain brake back and forth to see it works perfect - if there is even a teaspoon of sawdust between the brake band and the centrifugal clutch you will just stall out. Also watch the way old timers do a file job, and exactly where on the bar and at what angle for each tooth, there is more to it than you would think which is why sawmill filer jobs are the highest pay of all the woodworkers jobs. A poor job or 5 hour maintenance time is indicated by the saw not cutting into the wood easily, an angled cut, bar smoking and burning of the wood. I noticed on wet hardwood like Walnut you have to increase this maintenance about 30 times more frequent.

Mar 24, 2011 | Ryobi 18" Chain Saw Repl Bar Model Ry10532

1 Answer

Husquvarna 460 rancher 20" bar all new including


The normal reason for a saw to cut to the left, or right is because the cutters have been sharpened more on side than the other, they are now longer on one side, this then sends the cut off to that side. Measure the cutter lenghts, take the correct file and shorten the longer cutters

Mar 06, 2011 | Husqvarna 20" 60cc Rancher Chain Saw 460

2 Answers

I have a Remington 16"


most any bar and chain oil for chain saws will work. The cheaper the better just make sure you keep the chain oiled up. if you can touch the chain and oil oil does'nt get on you you not using enoght and put oil right on the chain. certainly when you put the saw away to store it. even wrapping the bar and chain in a rag with oil in it is a good idea as it'll be ready for next time.

Jan 31, 2011 | Remington 16" Electric Chain Saw Assembled...

2 Answers

Why my chain saw always cuts at an angle


a lot of people have this problem with a chain saw and cant get a strate cut, most of the time its down to them trying to force the saw through the wood and in doing this the saw cuts around corners as there pull is not square to the cut,, let the saw do the work, not you, if your pulling on the saw to make it cut well then it has a very dull or blunt blade,,,is there any side to side "rock" on the chain in this new bar? how have you sharpend it? dose the chain have the same pitch on both side's? are all the teeth cutting at the same depth? if its cutting around corners it could still be the chain pitch worn out, if so the chain is past its best as well, but most of the time its all down to how hard and how squarely your pulling on the blade when cutting,,,the first thing in logging to lurn is to cut squarely no easy task that! just dont force the saw to cut!! it will cut just as fast or faster without forseing it,, if all this still dont get you cutting right change the chain for a new one,,,the only hard work with a chain saw is holding it up to the tree and humping it around not cutting with it, thats the blade's job to do so the faster you try to make it cut the more out of true the cut go's as all your doing is bending the bar out of alinement,,all in all, its two hands for the job and a very gentle pressure on the saw, start the cut with the blade spinning and dont stop the blade in the wood, cut right through

Mar 28, 2010 | Poulan Wild Thing 2375 18" Gas Chain Saw...

4 Answers

All the chains i cut cut to the right not straight through the log. The bar is new.


Pay a professional to sharpen one chain. If that cuts straight examine your sharpening procedure or the individual that does the sharpening.
Lou
If not please post back below.

Jan 26, 2010 | Oregon Scientific Oregon Bench-Mount...

3 Answers

20" poulan chain saw cuts at angle


Hi
You must have hit a nail or stone with the one side of the chain. When the chain gets duller on one side than the other is what makes a saw cut at a angle. Get the chain sharpened and it should cut straight again.
Sam

Jan 08, 2010 | Poulan Wild Thing 2375 18" Gas Chain Saw...

3 Answers

Can you put an 18 in. bar and chain on a poulan 2055 14 in ?


Have you considered a rental? Home Depot rents Makitas (Dolmar) with a 20" bar reasonably. Be warned running a Dolmar/Makita will make you question the value of your Poulan LOL. HTH
Lou

Dec 07, 2009 | Vacuums

1 Answer

Need a bar for a 10ich Remington pole saw


www.masterparts.net/remingtonelectricchainsaw. USE THIS SITE AND FIND YOUR CHAIN SAW MODLE YOUR BAR IS IN THERE. I BOUGHT A REMINGTON ELECTRIC SAW 2 YEARS AGE AND THE THING CUTS BETTER THEN MY GAS SAWS, LOVE THAT THING

Aug 10, 2009 | Remington Electric Chain Saw

1 Answer

Bar oiling problem


Just a thought: Is it cold where you are? At this saw mill where it is my job to keep chain saws running, learned years ago that you cannot use "bar oil" in winter. Need thinner oil, like motor oil. ....preferably a "non-detergent" motor oil, plain 30-weight is OK, HD30W will work, but the HD part causes the chain to stretch more so than standard bar oil. The bar oil literally is so thick in cold that it stripped the worm gear out of a Poulan Pro oil pump (plastic gear, anyways, wasn't much to begin with.) But thought you may want to try thinner oil, if it is cold where you are. Oh yea we also have 2-Husqvarna 359's with 20-inch bar, and use thinner oil in winter. Our Husqvarnas have an oil adjuster located on bottom, on clutch side. Straight slot screw adjustment.

Nov 18, 2008 | Husqvarna Chain Saw 20" Bar

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