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The burner is not lighting! and thus no heating!

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If it is an older unit, it may have a pilot light you need to relight.
If it is a newer unit, you may try to go out where the furnace is located and look through the inspection door sight glass for a flashing light. This light will blink so many times to tell you what is wrong. Instructions to what the flashing light means should be posted on the furnace .

Posted on Apr 10, 2011

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Hello Gary,
Their is one of two things wrong why your surface burners are not working.
1) the block that the burners plug into it bad...it is very common for the burner block to be worn down and making very poor contact with the burners and thus their is power at the blocks and yet the burners will not work
2) the burners their self are bad

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I have a gas heater with the newer style electronic ignition assembly. My problem is that it often won't light on it's own. It's weird, but what I've found is that if I remove the cover and either wait...


You may wish to remove and clean the burner assembly, sometimes a high pressure air blower tool connected to an air compressor is sufficient. Often a problem like this is related to dirt, lint, or rust.

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G4-7 atwood water heater lights great, heats water but when it cycles the pilot goes out no hot water


Sounds like the burner flame may be too strong (jumping out from burner tube) . Some people think the louder the better, but that is not correct. When burner shuts down like that, it has a tendency to snuff out pilot as well. Adjust your air shutter at burner so that the flame is a nice blue, or with just a hint of orange/yellow at the tip. Whatever setting that keeps the flame solid from burner tube, and not a big gap between tube and flame. Signs of soot (black) up the cover, or side of trailer means it's running too rich, and you've gone too far thus needs more air. Keeping the flame blue but still right out of the burner, actually heats better, is quieter, and should eliminate that pilot getting snuffed out. Pilot should also be a nice blue flame as well. There may be a problem with positioning of the burner tube as well, but doubtful if it has been running well in that position before. Let me know what happens.

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Back burner makes periodic clicking noise and flames increase


This clicking noise would be an indication that the burner is 'burnt out'. Burners have individual ports that release individual flames to create one big flame.

If the burner has a hole in it or the burner's internal baffles are burnt out the burner will make a 'popping' or 'clicking' noise.

Also, heat makes metals expand and when metal expands it makes a clicking noise. The increase in flame could be because the burner has a large hole in it or the holes are increasing in size as they expand, thus throwing a larger flame.

Just a thought.

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Check your exhaust pipe for blockage, Make sure pilot light is located just above or below the burner. Make sure that there is a good supply of air going to the burner and that the intake pipe (if it has one) is not restricted. A furnace that old needs to be replaced what ever you find. You could have a cracked heat exchanger.

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check pressure switch for proper adjustment and make sure filter is clean so system pressure is normal

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1 Answer

Furnace runs about 1 minute, then total shutdown


What type of gas supply line do you have? Is it black pipe or copper? If it is copper, there can be a film like substance that builds up on the inside of the copper. The debris will the get caught in a pre screen where the supply enters the valve thus cutting the supply of gas to the unit. Also, the thermocouple may be bad. You didn't say that you replaced it. Try replacing it as well. Also, you could have a limit switch turning the system off and thus cutting the gas off completely but it is highly unusual for the pilot to be cut off as well unless the pilot is being blown out when the gas is shut off. Also, turn the unit to fan only without calling for heat. Using a flame of some sort, put it into each baffle of the heat exchanger. If your flame is being blown around in one of the baffles, then you have a hole in the heat exchanger and what is happening is that the roll out switch is cutting the unit off and the air still moving through the heat exchanger is blowing the pilot out. I have seen this actually happen. If your furnace is in excess of 15 years old, it does need to be checked for possible holes. If it is in excess of 25 years old, it is a huge possibility that the unit has already developed a hole. If you feel hair coming out of one of the baffles, then shut the unit down immediately and have it replaced!

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Amana Model GUVA090AX50 furnace/AC unit installed 2002. Thermostat calls for heat. fan blows, igniter glows, but no gas... thus no flame, etc. No loose connections found. What next...


I hadone of these installed about the same time. About a month & a half ago, i woke to the same problem except the burner would light but almost immediately go out. It cycled throught 4 more times before timing out. I cleaned the end of the thermocouple (located in the flame path on the right hand side) & voila'. I just came home to the same problem again, so it looks like I'm off to the parts store tomorrow. Cleaning it again did restart the furnace. Hope thus helps.

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3 Answers

Whirlpool electric range burner power light stays on but no heat


Hello givemeanidth.
Welcome to Fixya

You said, have a Whirlpool electric range (model rf363pxpt0) with standalone burners - the burner power indicator light stays lit whether the heat control knob is on or off, there is no heat coming from the burner on or off. You pulled the burner from the receptacle and one of the tabs broke off and stayed in the receptacle. You removed the tab and made sure no pieces remained in the receptacle then bought a replacement burner, no change. You put the replacement burner in the back burner of the same size and had heat within 10 seconds. You changed out the burner with the one that had been in the back of the range, no heat. As long as the breaker to the range is on the power light stays lit but no power to that one burner only.

What is the model number and the age of your range?

Waiting for your reply.
Huuum

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Gas kitchen range


Most problems with gas ranges have to do with the flame--either it isn't quite right or it's nonexistent. Most new gas ranges have "electronic ignition," a spark igniter that starts the flame as gas flows through the burners. If, when you turn on a burner, it fails to spark but you hear sparking at other burners, the igniter or the burner switch probably needs replacement by an appliance repairperson. If your range has a pilot light, be sure the pilot light is lit.

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