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Samsung rb2155bb control panel doesn't show actual temperature inside. have replaced control board and sensors, but system not holding temperature. we have to unplug then replug to get compressor to run and cool down, but it won't hold for long.

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  • sdezeeuw Apr 09, 2011

    control board and sensor have already been replaced. however the display didn't message an error when the sensor was removed and replaced.

  • sdezeeuw Apr 09, 2011

    I've already spent $200 fixing this so far, is replacing the compressor going to be expense? should I just get a new refrigerator?

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May be your temperature setting is got locked to child lock functions. Try to unlock it.By pressing the freezer temp and refrigerator temp button together for 3 seconds.This will unlock it.If it gets locked, then again press it to unlock it.Then check. CHILD LOCK BUTTON:--------When these( freezer temp and refrigerator temp) two buttons are pressed at the same time for 3 sec.the Power Freeze, Power Cool, Freeze Temp, Refrigerator Temp, are locked and can not be modified. If you press the two buttons at the same time again for 3 sec., the child lock function is cancelled. --------------------- • The freezer can be set to a temperature between -14°F and 8°F.------- • Press the FREEZER TEMP. button repeatedly until the desired temperature is shown in the temperature display.--- • The temperature display changes in sequence between -14°F and 8°F. When the display reaches -14°F, it returns to 8°F.-------- • After five seconds, the display reverts to the average freezer temperature, which changes as the freezer reaches the new temperature. ------------------ Refrigerator • The refrigerator can be set to a temperature between 34°F and 46°F.--- • Press the REFRIGERATOR TEMP. button repeatedly until the desired temperature is shown in the temperature display.-- • The temperature display changes in sequence and reverts to the average temperature in the same way as the freezer.--- -------------------- But if the inside temperature is warm and unit not cooling as required.Then, see if the unit is placed very much near to wall.If its placed, then keep good amount of space between wall and unit.At least 12 inches away from wall.If the placement is right, then other possibilities are faulty sensor, or problem with control board, or the doors are not getting properly closed.If the door seal gets worn out then, it will release the cold air out and it will not cool properly.If doors are getting properly closed and door seals are intact, then other possibility is weak compressor.In the compressor, there is a refrigerant gas for cooling the unit.If the refrigerant gets leaked or gets low, then compressor will run but unit will not cool to its required level.In case, if the compressor is causing the fault, then it has to be replaced, by tech.Replacing compressor is not easy job.---------

You can get required parts from from online sites like: --- www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site. --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Posted on Apr 09, 2011

  • raj somaiya Apr 09, 2011

    As you mentioned in you first question comment that "system not holding temperature".So as per this , do you mean to say, that temperature first get set properly, then slowly--- slowly its gets low and unit gets wan inside and loose its cooling.------- And if control board and sensor replaced, then other possibilities to be checked are door seal, the door getting properly closed and compressor.Checking compressor is actually not easy.Because if compressor checked out ok, then its pressure test has to be done.,That test will confirm, where there is low refrigerant or refrigerant getting leaked.Its a gaseous type refrigerant, so its not seen leaking.But it leaks and disappears in air.Local refrigerator repair techs have pressure tool to check the compressor leak.----------Check out.Keep updated.Thanks.Helpmech.

  • raj somaiya Apr 09, 2011

    Compressor is costly part,it costs near to $150 plus fitting charges by the tech.Bust Samsung is a good brand and has good life.But if its used lot and old unit, then going for new is advisable.But if its not very old unit.Like between 4 to 6 years old.Then you can go for part replacement.It will last for more 3-4 years.If got properly repaired.Before ordering compressor and its related part.First get it inspected by the tech.If there is small leak in compressor and , in case he can refill the refrigerant, then , you can use the same compressor.Dont ever try to refill compressor refrigerant manually.It has to be done by repair tech only.There is a proper tool to do that.And there is a capacity, for this.As per that they fill it.So getting the compressor and its related part first inspected is advisable.If unit is not very old.If its very old, then you can o for new unit.-------------
    This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

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A model KERH507YWHO Kitchenaid range is stuck showing F2 we were trying to clean the onen What do we need to do to get it going again? thank you


F2 - Oven Temperature Is Too High - Check for welded contacts on bake and broil relays. If present, replace control board (clock). For SELF CLEAN models, check door lock operation. Check sensor, sensor harness, and the sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. Also check for any causes of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit. Remember: The oven control board (clock) measures resistance of sensor circuit, not actual oven temperature.
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Hi i have Frigidaire electric stove model# ples389ecd stove part works oven displays f 30 and half of key panel doesn't work. Replaced board, key panel , probe still have f 30 problem and key panel...


Hi u_odil,

The F30 on your display means that your oven thinks that your oven sensor is shorted. It's either a bad oven sensor or a bad display relay control board. You can't test the board but you can test the sensor. Open the door and remove the 3-4" long thin metal rod attached to the back wall. There are 2 screws holding the sensor on that you can remove and then pull the sensor forward until you can disconnect it. With a multimeter, check the resistance of the sensor at room temperature and it should be about 1080 ohms. If it's not, replace the sensor, otherwise you need to replace your relay board.

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My Kenmore Electric Range model 790.9661 seems to have a control board problem. Before replacing the $200 part, just wanted to make sure it was the problem. The clock works, but the oven temperature side...


From your description it sounds that the board is the problem. I found the control panel you need for a lot less than $200 though.
I found one online from a store that I have bought from many times. Part and shipping is about $153. They sell brand name stuff too and they have great service. I hope that this helped you.

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Since the defrost problem wont just go away here are details about how it works.

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

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1 Answer

The fridge says OF where the temperature is. I held it for 3 seconds be it keeps returning to the OF setting. Everything inside is defrosting.


Hi,

This problem is because of the temperature control board being defective.Please test the temperature control using multimeter.
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Note:Switch off the system for 8 hours or more so the defrost on the thermostat or the sensor will work and it will start work again.Please wait until the full frozen ice melts.

post a comment for further assistance.
Thank you for using fixya have a nice day:-)

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F2
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If no over temperature condition occurred: Look for a high resistance connection or any other cause of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness and sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace sensor if found defective.

Remember: Oven control (ERC) measures resistance of sensor circuit, not actual oven temperature. F2
During
CLEAN Control senses oven temperature above 915F-930F If actual over temperature condition occurred: Look for welded relay contacts. If this happens, replace oven control (also called clock or ERC).

If no over temperature condition occurred: Look for a high resistance connection or any other cause of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness and sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace sensor if found defective. Check door lock switches.

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HI. This code is a very strong indication of a high temperature state that has occurred. Also referred to as a runaway temperature issue. The necessary actions are as follows:

1. Look for welded relay contacts on bake or broil relays. If this happens, replace oven control (also called clock or ERC). The relays are located on the control board.

2. For SELF CLEAN models: check door lock operation.

3. Look for a high resistance connection or any other cause of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness and sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace sensor if found defective.

  • NOTE_The Oven control Board (ERC) measures resistance of the sensor circuit and not the actual oven temperature rates.

  • NOTE_The most common oven sensor should be approximately, 1100 ohms when at room temperature. The others may be close to as follows:

The sensor is, generally, located inside the oven, mounted on the back wall, on the top right, or left corner. There will be two screws holding the housing on the back of the oven wall. Once the screws are removed, the sensor will need to be extracted from the back side of the unit or pulled form the back wall.

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The most common oven sensor should be approximately, 1100 ohms when at room temperature. The others may be close to as follows:

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400°F - 1753 ohms
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If the sensor test is adequate, and the wiring is Ok at the control, this will lead to a failed control board. replace the control in this case.

Sensor location

The sensor is, generally, located inside the oven, mounted on the back wall, on the top right, or left corner. There will be two screws holding the housing on the back of the oven wall. Once the screws are removed, the sensor will need to be extracted from the back side of the unit.

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The most common oven sensor should be approximately, 1100 ohms when at room temperature. The others may be close to as follows:

100°F - 1143 ohms
200°F - 1350 ohms
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350°F - 1654 ohms
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If the sensor test is adequate, and the wiring is Ok at the control, this will lead to a failed control board. replace the control in this case.

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