Question about Coleman Mach 15 Air Conditioner

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I have a coleman mach rv airconditioner. it's remote controlled unit. it has power and the remote has batterys, yet will not attempt to turn on. ive tried the remote and the manual controls. unhooked the power in attempt to reset the unit. went to check the thermostat because all the rv's iv'e used have a dual thermostat, but this has an heat only and wont allow the furnace to run as well , unless the wires are unhooked at the furnace and bypassed there, then it operates fine any ideas?????

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  • Coleman Master
  • 75,807 Answers

It is likely the AC units control panel has failed.

Posted on Jul 10, 2017

6 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: coleman tsr mach 3 RV Air Conditioner

the fan motor bearings need lub....the shaft has a tiny access hole to put some oil into. because the fan shaft is slowing down, it is putting more strain on the voltage current, and eventually the internal breaker shuts down the your condenser is not getting enough air accross it, compressor heats up, and it too will shut the unit down......older units have to be oiled every year, and eventually it too will fail, and a new blower motor assembly is needed or replace the ac unit.....blower motor units are around $ you install it or pay to have it done at around another $150 labor,,,,,try yourself, if it fails then call the tech........let me know

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

  • 2559 Answers

SOURCE: No cold air

  1. The filter could be dirty This is the most probable cause and, of course, the easiest to check and correct.
  2. The evaporator coil face could be coated with lint,dirt, etc.Dirt or lint on the coil will restrict the flow of air through the coil and the unit must be removed from the recreational vehicle and the soil must be thoroughly cleaned with strong detergent (Coil X,Calclean, etc.) and water. Be sure to protect the fan motor and electrical controls during cleaning by covering them with polyethylene sheet. After the system is cleaned, allow it to thoroughly dry for several hours (before turning it on) to prevent electrical shorts.Before system is put back into operation, be sure the filter is properly installed to prevent recurrence of dirty coil.
  3. No compressor (Does not try to start).The compressor does not run and it does not hum.
    1.The selector switch may be open.
    2. Thermostat may be open.
    3. Overload switch may be open.
    4. Compressor winding may be open.
  4. Selector Switch
  5. Thermostat
  6. Low Voltage
  7. Overload
  8. Compressor
  9. Wiring (Mis-wired)
  10. PTCR or Potential Relay
  11. Start Capacitor
  12. Run Capacitor
To check the selector switch, remove wires from the terminals
and rotate the switch to the proper position and read
continuity as follows:
Terminals Switch Position
L-1-3 Lo Heat
L-1 Lo Fan
L-2 Hi Fan
L-1-4 Lo Cool
L-2-4 Hi Cool

Compressor Motor
The compressor motor is located inside the hermetic
compressor housing and therefore not accessible for service or
visual observation in the field. However, the motor winding
condition can be analyzed by using an ohm meter. Be sure to
remove all the leads from the compressor terminals before
making this check.
1) If the resistance between any two terminals is 0
ohms, the motor windings are shorted.
2) If the resistance between any terminal and the
compressor housing is anything but infinity, the
winding is grounded.
3) If the resistance between any two terminals is
infinity, the winding is open.
On a good compressor, the highest resistance will be between
the R (run) and S (start) terminals. The lowest resistance will
be between the C (common) and R (run) terminals. The
intermediate resistance will be between the C (common) and
S (start) terminals. Notice that compressors have the
identification of the terminals marked on either the terminal
cover or on the compressor housing.

Capacitor Check
There are several capacitor test devices available. The ohm
meter is one of them. The ohm meter cannot verify a
capacitors MFD (microfarrad) value. However, the following
procedures will show you how to use an ohm meter to
determine if the capacitor is good, open, shorted or grounded.
Before testing any capacitor, always perform the following
* This test must be done with a analog type meter.
a) Disconnect all electrical power to the air conditioner.
b) Discharge the capacitor with a 20,000 ohm (approx.
3 watt) resistor or larger.
c) You may discharge capacitors with a standard volt
meter if you use a scale over 500 volts and touch the
leads (one lead to each side of the capacitor). The
volt meter will discharge the capacitor.
d) Identify and disconnect the wiring from the
e) Set and zero the ohm meter on the “highest” scale.
When testing for a good, open or shorted capacitor,
perform the following checks: Place the ohm meter
leads across the capacitor terminals (one lead on
each terminal) and perform a continuity test. Then
observe the action of the meter needle or indicator.
Reverse the leads and test again. The result should
be the same. Note: If the capacitor had not been
properly discharged, a false reading could be
indicated on the first test. Always test several times
(reversing the leads with each test). This will verify
the capacitors condition.
Good Capacitor
If the capacitor is good, the indicator will move from infinity
(the left side), towards zero ohms and slowly return back to
infinity. Reverse the leads and test again. The result should
be the same.

Start Capacitor
Most models use a start capacitor and a start relay to give the
compressor high starting torque. The compressor will,
therefore, start against normal pressure difference (head
pressure minus suction pressure) even when shut down for a
short period of time. The start relay will disconnect the start
capacitor when the motor reaches approximately 75%
running speed.
Start (Potential) Relay
The start relay consists of –
1) Normally closed contacts internally between
terminals #1 and #2 which switch in the start
capacitor in parallel to the run capacitor during shut
down and then switch out the start capacitor when
the motor reaches approximately 75% normal
running speed.
2) A high voltage coil internally between terminals #5
and #2 to actuate the contacts. The coil is too weak
on line voltage to actuate the contacts, but it is
connected in series with the start winding and it gets
the generated voltage of the start winding portion of
the compressor motor. This generated voltage is
much higher than line voltage and varies with the
speed of the motor. Therefore, since the relay is
designed to open the contacts at 75% of normal
running voltage (measured between terminals #5 and
#2), the contacts will open (thus disconnect the start
capacitor) at approximately 75% of normal running
(B) Positive Temperature Coefficient Resistor
(Commonly Known As PTCR Start
The resistor acts like a potential relay in that it takes the start
capacitor out of the start circuit, but uses resistance of
electrical flow (back EMF from compressor) instead of
opening a set of contacts. The service person should be careful
handling the resistors. They will be hot during operation (up
to 160 degrees F). The air conditioner needs to be off for 3-5
minutes during cycle time and when servicing to let the
resistor cool down.

That covers everthing.
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Posted on Feb 09, 2009

  • 127 Answers

SOURCE: coleman mach air conditioner in rv tries to start

“The voltage could be low – ”
a) Check the voltage between #1 on the
overload switch and the “R” terminal of the
compressor while it is not humming. This
voltage must be 115 volts domestic USA
models or 240 volts export/overseas models.
No less than minus 10% is allowable.
b) Check the voltage from “C” or “R” of the
compressor while it is humming (trying to
start). The latter reading will probably be
lower, but it still must be 103.5 volts
minimum domestic USA or 216 volts
minimum export/overseas models.
If the first reading is above 103.5V domestic USA and
the second is under 103.5V domestic USA, there is
too much voltage drop in the lines - a situation which
must be corrected for the air conditioner to perform
safely and satisfactorily.
2. “A capacitor could be shorted, weak or open.”
Turn the power off.
Caution – There is always a chance that a capacitor is
holding a residual charge, so before touching a
terminal, discharge the capacitor as explained earlier
in this booklet.
Remove capacitors, visually examine them and test
them per instructions given in earlier section on
capacitor testing (See page 9).
If the capacitors test OK, replace them and carefully
reconnect the wires. Be sure the wires are connected
to the right terminals.
3. “Start relay contacts could be open – ” if so equipped.
Turn off all power, then check for continuity with
ohm meter between terminals 1 & 2.
4. “Compressor start winding could be open or
Check compressor windings per instructions. See the
section on the compressors (See page 8).
5. “Compressor could be mechanically stuck.”
This very rarely occurs and when it does, it is usually
after a lengthy shutdown. This should be considered
only after all the above possible causes have been
positively eliminated. To free a stuck compressor, use
your hermetic analyzer according to the
manufacturers instructions.

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

  • 117 Answers

SOURCE: r.v. coleman mack furnace

Try calling a local appliance repair or HVAC/refrigeration contractor.

A mechanical refrigeration contractor would have a better chance of having or being able to get replacement parts faster. But you have to get someone with an HVAC knowledge to look at it.

While the R.V. mechanics may be good at simple repairs or general knowledge, you need a trained eye to look at this issue here.

I would suggest to have a tech diagnose the problem and quote to repair. If the quote sounds reasonable, then go for it (your paying for expertise and a warranty). If not, then you at least have an idea of where the problem lies and what steps needs to take place to try to get it fixed.

Posted on Jan 08, 2010

  • 1420 Answers

SOURCE: thermostat keeps blowing fuses

There is a short in one of the thermostat wires. The fuse is triggered on the low voltage side of the unit. Replace the wires.

Posted on Feb 09, 2010

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Bear in mind, this A/C unit is made for Recreational Vehicles with a Heavy Duty Battery to power such devices for a short time and external power supply for extensive use. The watts listed in the specifications refers to cooling and heating power in watts, British Thermal Units (BTUs) was the old measurement term. Do not confuse these cooling and heating watts with the amount of electrical power consumption in watts. The two are unrelated. Power for this RV A/C unit comes from a battery or external RV connection point. Hopes this helps you.

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