Question about Maytag MER5775Q Electric Kitchen Range

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Part number 5701M760-60 (clock/control pane) on my Maytag range Model merh752bab has pushed in on the right hand side. It still works, but is no longer attached to anything on the right. How do I reattach this part?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: No heat Maytag smoothtop range MERH752BAB

It would have to be under warranty if this happened after only 1 week. I would contact the manufacturer.

Posted on Oct 06, 2007

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Dipu007
  • 2110 Answers

SOURCE: F9 on Maytag range MGS5770ADB

Try unplugging the oven from the electrical power. May release the lock, which is held in place by a tiny micro switch. If not and while the electric is still off or the oven is unplugged, use a bright light flashlight to look through the slot where the lock is in the oven, not in the door.

You may be able to use a thin blade screwdriver to move the lock to the release position. Check the angle of the lever. A slightly bent lever handle also can cause this type of condition.

If all else fails, remove the access panel on the front of the oven to access the locking device and release it. May have to disconnect the wires to the lock which will allow door to function but not during any self cleaning modes.

Posted on Dec 23, 2008

tzweeb
  • 318 Answers

SOURCE: Hot Surface Light Stays On

you do have a top burner sensor that has failed. the hard thing is to figure out which one. most of these units have a 5 year part warranty, but you have to pay for an authorized servicer replace it for you.
if you want to figure it out yourself, you will have to find which of the wires, from the burner sensor, controls the indicator light. its not hard as it is usually the smaller one. each burner has a sensor and if you are certain you can work with the electricity on, its just a process of elimination.
unplug the unit from the wall, then take off the wire from 1 burner at a time, tape it off, to prevent shorting to ground, then plug back in and see if the light has gone out.
then you can order the new sensor, but on some models, you have to get the whole burner and sensor assembly.

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: How do I set the clock on a Maytag gas range, I

If your range is the same model as you posted this question under, the time is set by pressing the "CLOCK" button. The word "TIME" will begin to flash on the display. Using the keypad, press the corresponding numbers of the current time.

NOTE: If the oven has been programmed, or is in use, you cannot change the time. Cancel all other functions before attempting to set the clock.

If the model number is not correct, please post back with your correct information so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance.

Posted on Nov 01, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: what is F1 on my maytag range model mer5570acw I

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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Posted on Oct 01, 2010

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you do have a top burner sensor that has failed. the hard thing is to figure out which one. most of these units have a 5 year part warranty, but you have to pay for an authorized servicer replace it for you.
if you want to figure it out yourself, you will have to find which of the wires, from the burner sensor, controls the indicator light. its not hard as it is usually the smaller one. each burner has a sensor and if you are certain you can work with the electricity on, its just a process of elimination.
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then you can order the new sensor, but on some models, you have to get the whole burner and sensor assembly.

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