Question about Maytag MER5775Q Electric Kitchen Range
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get to try the service completely Free afterwhich it costs $6 per call and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: F9 on Maytag range MGS5770ADB
Try unplugging the oven from the electrical power. May release the
lock, which is held in place by a tiny micro switch. If not and while
the electric is still off or the oven is unplugged, use a bright light
flashlight to look through the slot where the lock is in the oven, not
in the door.
You may be able to use a thin blade screwdriver to move the lock to the release position. Check the angle of the lever. A slightly bent lever handle also can cause this type of condition.
If all else fails, remove the access panel on the front of the oven to access the locking device and release it. May have to disconnect the wires to the lock which will allow door to function but not during any self cleaning modes.
Posted on Dec 23, 2008
SOURCE: Hot Surface Light Stays On
you do have a top burner sensor that has failed. the hard thing is to figure out which one. most of these units have a 5 year part warranty, but you have to pay for an authorized servicer replace it for you.
if you want to figure it out yourself, you will have to find which of the wires, from the burner sensor, controls the indicator light. its not hard as it is usually the smaller one. each burner has a sensor and if you are certain you can work with the electricity on, its just a process of elimination.
unplug the unit from the wall, then take off the wire from 1 burner at a time, tape it off, to prevent shorting to ground, then plug back in and see if the light has gone out.
then you can order the new sensor, but on some models, you have to get the whole burner and sensor assembly.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
If your range is the same model as you posted this question under, the time is set by pressing the "CLOCK" button. The word "TIME" will begin to flash on the display. Using the keypad, press the corresponding numbers of the current time.
NOTE: If the oven has been programmed, or is in use, you cannot change the time. Cancel all other functions before attempting to set the clock.
If the model number is not correct, please post back with your correct information so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance.
Posted on Nov 01, 2009
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
Posted on Oct 01, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 12, 2009 | Dishwashers
Jun 18, 2008 | Maytag MER5770 Electric Kitchen Range
Nov 07, 2009 | GE Kitchen Ranges
May 17, 2009 | Maytag MES5752BAW / MES5752BAB Electric...
May 05, 2009 | Maytag MER5770 Electric Kitchen Range
Dec 28, 2008 | Maytag MER5775Q Electric Kitchen Range
Sep 08, 2007 | Kitchen Ranges
Aug 11, 2007 | Maytag Model MER4351AAB
54 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: