My transmission is leaking..plz help!
If it isn't leaking from the Input seal, (The seal where the torque converter shaft goes into), then I suggest it's leaking from the Front Pump seal. Torque converter removed, look at the large round object, that has bolts going around it, and a shaft coming out the middle. The Input seal is in the middle. The large round object is the Front Pump. There is a large rubber O-ring that goes around the Front Pump. This O-ring can deteriorate, and leak. It can also blow out partially, due to inner damage of a spring clutch.
One thing I would like to advise you on. The Inner seal installation.
You should use the proper tool to remove it. You should use a seal puller. Also, when using a seal puller, the seal puller head can dig into the Front Pump cast iron case.
This can create a gouge, in the recess where the outside of the seal sits. This will create an area to leak.
Use caution when removing an Inner seal, and only have the seal puller head just far enough in, that it catches about half, of the inner seal -> metal outer ring. Past the rubber part of the seal, past the spring, and onto the metal outer ring of the seal itself. But, not far enough that the seal puller head will touch the Front Pump case recess.
If you did gouge the recess of the Front Pump case, clean the area with a clean shop rag. Use a half round file, and carefully remove the burr that the gouge creates. When a gouge is created, it upsets the metal. The gouge makes a 'valley', and a burr is created on the top edges of this 'valley'. That burr needs to be filed down to the rounded recess surface. Follow up with sandpaper. Wipe it out with a clean shop rag. Wrap a clean shop rag around the shaft, so that no metal fillings can get inside the Front Pump, and blow that recess out with air. Wipe the recess area again, with a clean shop rag.
To install an Inner seal, lightly coat the outside metal ring of the seal, with silicone. I use high temp Red. Failure to do this may cause a leak. Do this if you have a gouge or not. If you have a gouge, put a little extra silicone in that gouge, and fill it up. Don't use too much, but make sure the gouge is filled.
Either use a seal installation tool, or fabricate one out of Schedule 80 pipe, and have one end milled flat, and the corners rounded a little. The pipe must be large enough to fit against the flat outer lip of the seal.
Put the seal in place. Push on it, try to keep it flat and even. Put the seal installation tool on the seal. Tap on one side of the installation tool, then tap on the other, until you get a good start. Good start being the seal starts to go in, and is even all the way around. Then take you hammer, and tap around the outside edge of the installation tool. Go around and around. Watch how the seal is going in. If it starts to tilt off to one side, stop. Remove the seal. Start over. It must go in even all the way around, as it's being installed.
Failure to keep it even as it's installed, will twist the seal, and the seal's spring will pop out. Now you have a twisted seal, and no spring. The seal is junk!
BE SURE, to apply a thin light coat of transmission fluid, to the inner part of the seal. The area where the torque converter shaft will spin in. FAILURE to do this, might cause the torque converter shaft to twist, the inner rubber part of the seal, and twist the seal in half. The seal is then junk!
Apr 24, 2009 |
1994 Mitsubishi Mirage