Question about Delta Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

I have a delta series 6201 switch and I would like to know how to correctly perform a continuity test ? It has 5 terminals, while holding the switch with the writing towards you there are 2 terminals on the far left side and nothing down the middle and three on the right side. This switch is off from a snapper mower,model yz15384bve. Just need to know which terminals should have continuity when switch is pushed and also which terminals should have continuity when pulled ?....thanks

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Ken I have the same problem with my Gravely. Sounds like these guys think its a dimmer switch in a house. I wrote to Delta Systems for the diagram. I will pass it on to you if I get a reply or find one. My address is s.fleniken@hotmail.com

Posted on Jul 30, 2013

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

al_kupchella
  • 843 Answers

SOURCE: I have the switch wired for operation of a circ.

I can't tell exactly which switch you have, but from your statement that the pump is between switch and the source, you may be out of luck unless you can run another wire from the switch to the pump.
If you have only one set of wires in the switch box (one black, one white, one ground) then I don't think you will be able to get the pilot light to work. The pilot needs a hot wire and a neutral. If you have only one set of wires, you don't have a neutral.
But if you have two sets wires in the switch box, do this--- Connect the two black wires to the terminals you are already using. Connect the two white wires together (not to the switch) This is the usual way to wire a switch. Power it up. The switch should operate the pump, but the pilot will not work. Turn off the breaker. Now connect the two white wires to the screws that are linked together. Power it back up. The pilot should now work.

Posted on Mar 29, 2010

Testimonial: "Thank you very much. I'll follow your instructions. The more information the better!"

  • 37 Answers

SOURCE: 3-function control switch

You are correct.

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

  • 744 Answers

SOURCE: 2 wire chain pull light switch. One blac/one white. which wire goes to which terminal

The gold terminal is usually the "hot" terminal (black wire), the silver terminal is "neutral" (white wire). Remember to turn off the power before you work on it.

Posted on Apr 19, 2009

SOURCE: With the switch in the

I answer questions for free.
I understand electrical devices.
It is unclear how many screws are on the switch you are testing.

If your switch does not show ohms when the switch is in one position, then it sounds like the switch is bad. But you can read information below for more information about your testing.
You can also add a comment and continue the discussion.

Let me provide more information about switches because you seem interested in electricity and the information may help us understand where the other is coming from in case you add a comment needing more help:
2 screws on switch: (excluding ground screw)
An ordinary single-pole switch usually has 2 brass colored screws.
These screws only read ohms or continuity when switch is in one position.
When the switch is in the other position, there are no ohms that pass through the switch.

3 screws on switch: (excluding ground)
A 3-way switch has 3 screws. There are 2 brass-colored screws and one dark-colored screw.
Put ohm tester on dark screw and continuity will show between the dark screw and one of the brass screws.
Flip the switch and ohms will test between dark colored screw and the other brass screw.

4 screws on switch. (excluding ground)
There are 2 screws on each side of switch.
This type of switch might be a special purpose double-pole switch.
Or it might be the more common 4-way switch.
Add a comment if you have a switch with 4 screws.

Below is a typical 3-way switch application showing the dark-colored screws:
6e182f6.jpg


Here is a typical 4-way switch circuit:
Notice the switch in middle has 4 screws:
b2c1223.jpg

Link below goes to a special application double-pole-double-throw switch:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/30-Amp-DPDT-switch-a-800.jpg

Posted on Nov 01, 2010

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1 Answer

My Corriander model oven - stovetop works well, but the oven is completely "dead".


THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!



On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.


: rememberI offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

Dec 07, 2016 | Fisher and Paykel Ovens

1 Answer

How to clean head HP 7260


HP Photosmart 7150 and 7260 printers




  1. Make sure plain paper is loaded into the In Tray.



  2. To perform the first level cartridge cleaning is a spit and wipe, press and hold the Power button while pressing the Cancel button twice, then release the Power button. The printer will generate a series of noises as it performs the cleaning.


  3. Print a test page from the computer.


  4. Once the cleaning has completed and the test page has printed, examine the test page. If the print is not clear and/or there are lines in the color bars, continue to Step 5.If the print quality is acceptable, disregard the subsequent steps.


  5. To perform a second level cartridge cleaning, press and hold the Power button while pressing the Cancel button twice. Release the Power button and press the Resume button. The printer will generate a series of noises as it performs the cleaning.


  6. Print a test page from the computer.


  7. Once the cartridge cleaning has completed and the test page has printed, examine the test page. If the print is not clear and/or there are lines in the color bars, continue to Step 8.If the print quality is acceptable disregard the subsequent steps.


  8. To perform a super clean, press and hold the Power button while pressing the Cancel button twice. Press the Resume button twice then release the Power button. The printer will generate a series of noises.


  9. Print a test page from the computer.


  10. Once the super clean has the completed and the test page has printed, examine the test page. If the print is not clear and/or there are lines in the color bars, continue to Step 11. If the print quality is acceptable disregard the subsequent step.


  11. To perform a pen nozzle test, press and hold the Power button while pressing the Cancel button eight times. Press the Resume button four times then release the Power button. The printer will generate a series of noises then print a page displaying a test pattern. If there are gaps in the printouts the cartridge(s) may need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Direct spark ignition wont fire on bake or broil


Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

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1 Answer

Only two hobs heat up


Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.
: I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

Mar 19, 2014 | Belling XOU174 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

MODEL WFG231LVQ0 OVEN AND BROILER WONT LITE BURNERS WORK


are you sure about that being the reason. I would check the infinite switch's

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

ELECTRIC OVENS:

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

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1 Answer

Hob burners will not stay lit when knob is released


Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.
: I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

Mar 10, 2012 | Belling Ovens

2 Answers

Please I need your help locating the engine number on my 1997 Isuzu Rodeo LS V6 3.2L Model. Please explain fully the exact location. I know little or nothing about car engine parts. Thank you very much.


I need a part for my Scotts/John Deere tractor-blade starter-black rubber with 8 prongs and yellow knob. Yellow knob has sun symbal on top. The back of the switch has Delta Systems, Inc. Series 6201 Pat No. 5221816 -also has KSD on the side Com C Com B and Com A on other side. Please advise whee I can find this part.

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1 Answer

DRIVERS ELECTRIC WINDOW NOT WORKING.


If the passenger side is OK, it is not the fuse.

If you can hear the motor running on the drivers side, you've got a mechanical issue. The assembly is complicated and I couldn't even begin to describe how to rectify the issue - if this is the case, take it to a mechanic and save yourself the headache.

HOWEVER! You've probably got a faulty switch - this is a common problem in the NA series MX-5. I've had it occur twice in my own.

Remove the switch and do a continuity test with a multimeter.

The terminal in the switch are numbered as follows:
Hold the switch so that the clip retainer is at the bottom. Top row is 3,2,1 from left to right. Bottom row is 6,5,4 from left to right. (If my memory serves me correctly - if the test doesn't work out at all - swap the left to right order)

Hold the driver's switch in the up position.
There should be continuity between terminals 4 and 5 and between 1 and 2

Hold the driver's switch in the off position.
There should be continuity between terminals 1 and 2 and between 2 and 5 and between 1 and 5

Hold the driver's switch in the down position.
There should be continuity between terminals 2 and 4 and between 1 and 5

Hold the passenger's switch in the up position.
There should be continuity between terminals 4 and 6 and between 1 and 3

Hold the passenger's switch in the off position.
There should be continuity between terminals 1 and 3 and between 3 and 6 and between 1 and 6

Hold the passenger's switch in the down position.
There should be continuity between terminals 3 and 4 and between 1 and 6.

I'd check the passenger switch first to make sure I told you the terminals in the correct order ;).

You'll probably find that the switch doesn't check out. Replace it (shop around - there is a huge difference in prices)

Hope this helps,
Sherwin

Apr 10, 2009 | 1992 Mazda MX-5

1 Answer

1993 EUNOS ROADSTER DRIVERS ELECTRIC WINDOW NOT WORKING


If the passenger side is OK, it is not the fuse.

If you can hear the motor running on the drivers side, you've got a mechanical issue. The assembly is complicated and I couldn't even begin to describe how to rectify the issue - if this is the case, take it to a mechanic and save yourself the headache.

HOWEVER! You've probably got a faulty switch - this is a common problem in the NA series MX-5. I've had it occur twice in my own.

Remove the switch and do a continuity test with a multimeter.

The terminal in the switch are numbered as follows:
Hold the switch so that the clip retainer is at the bottom. Top row is 3,2,1 from left to right. Bottom row is 6,5,4 from left to right. (If my memory serves me correctly - if the test doesn't work out at all - swap the left to right order)

Hold the driver's switch in the up position.
There should be continuity between terminals 4 and 5 and between 1 and 2

Hold the driver's switch in the off position.
There should be continuity between terminals 1 and 2 and between 2 and 5 and between 1 and 5

Hold the driver's switch in the down position.
There should be continuity between terminals 2 and 4 and between 1 and 5

Hold the passenger's switch in the up position.
There should be continuity between terminals 4 and 6 and between 1 and 3

Hold the passenger's switch in the off position.
There should be continuity between terminals 1 and 3 and between 3 and 6 and between 1 and 6

Hold the passenger's switch in the down position.
There should be continuity between terminals 3 and 4 and between 1 and 6.

I'd check the passenger switch first to make sure I told you the terminals in the correct order ;).

You'll probably find that the switch doesn't check out. Replace it (shop around - there is a huge difference in prices)

Hope this helps,
Sherwin

Apr 10, 2009 | Mazda MX-5 Miata Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Kenmore 90 Series Model 11060912990 Dryer won't start


check motor (you have 2.4 Kohm ) very high read
for motor must be lower.Check capacitor if hawe.

Feb 15, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

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