Question about LEVITON MFG. CO., INC. R13-07299-0NA GFCI W/WALLPLATE15A ALM

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The switch I am replacing has two red plugged into the back and two black plugged into the one below. If I want to keep the same set up I can just connect the two red to the top brass screw and the two black to the bottom but must break the small brass tab between the screws not the plastic, correct? If I don't care to use the wall switch all I have to do is to cap off the red and connect one black to one brass screw and one to the other brass screw w/o touching the brass tab,correct?

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You are trying to replace a 4-way switch with a receptacle. The best that you can hope for is a switched receptacle. In the same box you should see two white wires wirenutted together. That is the neutral. You will have to pigtail off of the whites wires to the silver (or white, neutral) screw on the receptacle using the same gauge wire. Then, pick a pair, say the two blacks, and wirenut them together with a pigtail to the brass screw (hot) on the receptacle. To finish, wirenut the two reds together. Do not connect them to anything. Don't forget to also pigtail the (bare) ground to the green screw on the receptacle.
As a result, you will find that the receptacle will only work when one of the other 3-way light switches in the circuit are operated, again, this is NOT best practice, but will accomplish what you are trying to do.

Posted on Apr 11, 2011

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Is the red light on? Does it change to blue when you press the power button?

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If no light, initially check the fuse, it is 5 Amps and a little smaller than a mini marshmallow. It is located on the right side of the board as you face the back of the set. It will be in the vicinity of the connector comming up from the power cord adapter. To test this, check other voltages as described below first, as the power supply board must be removed to get at the bottom leads of the fuse.

If the light simply remains red no matter what button is pushed, the power supply board is the first place to check for faults. If you have a voltmeter, unplug the set and remove the center plastic panel of the set, this reveals a metal plate, which is retained by three more screws along the bottom. The base can remain in place.

With that plate removed, use care when it is plugged in as there is lethal v voltage potential on the right side of the opening as you are facing the back of the set. There will be two boards, the one on top with the metal plates visible is the power supply. The lower board processes the inputs into video and audio components and is the "A&D board", These are important to know if you are buying them off of Ebay or other internet vendor.

With the set unplugged look for a mounted connector on the left side near the top where 2 sets of multiple wires come out of it and plug into a pair of connectors on the lower side of the power supply board (Black,red and another color) There are multiple red and multiple black wires- in the mounted connector, there is just enough room to insert a probe tip with a little bit of force, just enough to ensure the tip is in contact with the conductive connector in 1 each of the black; insert the black test lead from the meter, and the red test lead of the meter to one of the red in the larger mounted connector. The several red wires attach to the same copper pad on the power supply board so only one measurement needs to be taken to determine if power is available for the inverter board or boards. The black wires attach to one pad as well. With the meter set to it's highest DC voltage scale, plug the set back in and switch to lower scales as needed to ***** a avoltage measurement. see if you have a voltage in the area of 24 volts. If you do- check the fuse(s) on the inverter board or capacitors of same boards (depends on production run.

If you have 24 volts, the blue pilot lamp should be lit on the front. You can see on the face of the set if the tubes are lit or not. If you have 24 volts but no light- the fault is with the inverter or the CCFL tubes. The inverter should be pretty obvious if it is the issue because the capacitors will have bulging tops. The chip fuse for each section should checked for continuity If there is, the fuse is good. These require a high ripple current type of electrolytic capacitor. A general purpose type will not last in this location.

If the set has the CCFL's lit, but no response to an input signal, move the test leads carefully, or unplug set to move them to the corresponding red and black wires of the bundle that plug just above the paired sets that go to the inverters, the upper set has 3 red, 3 black, and 2 other colors on the connector. You should see a voltage measuring between the red and the black. If no voltage, or less than about 3 volts, the power supply board is at issue. If the voltage is greater than that, the A&D board is likely at fault, this is the board that is below the power supply board..

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1 Answer

The switch I am replacing has two red plugged into the back and two black plugged into the one below. If I want to keep the same set up I can just connect the two red to the top brass screw and the two...


If you can tell me, The reds are to a light or something right? and are they tied together in a wire nut with a black wire or are there two blacks together and two reds together? If so then you can wire it that way and break the brass crossover but if they are two reds and two seperate blacks then you could have an issue. Let me know further, thanks.

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There are a few ways to remedy this situation.

1) If you have access to that HDMI port on the TV, plug it back in and switch the settings back to composite. Your screen will go black which means you did it right.

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that is strange
normally a 3 wire switch could only be able to control 2 things + off. black would be common, red would be one fan speed or set of lights and blue would be the other fan speed or set of lights.
if it is a replacement, couldn't you just hook it up like the switch you are removing?

most likely the black wires are grounds for everything and white would be power. hook it up however you like. white power would hook up to the black wire on the switch and then the blue to one light and red to the other set of lights white wires.
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1 Answer

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I do this here for free so if this has helped you rate this solution as I do this here for Free.

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