Question about Samsung Televison & Video

2 Answers

Alright, here are the details. Power set on, everything clicks and spins up normally, lamp fires and screen starts to light, faint white light. LAMP on power button flashes steady then goes out. After about 30 seconds, click, then lamp goes out. One funny thing is has the same symptoms whether the blue door switch is made or not. I have checked switch and applied pressure to the DNIe chip on the digital board. Any and all help is appreciated with this problem. Samsung model HLR4667W. BTW, already installed new lamp......

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  • snoogyme2 Apr 08, 2011

    Drew, thanks for the response but this is a DLP television. The part pictured does not exist within my television, or I have not seen it with the back open.
    Maybe something else?

  • snoogyme2 Apr 08, 2011

    Thanks for the reply, i have unplugged the temp sensor and shorted the connector with the same results. Sensor reads closed with a meter when cold... the lamp does not stay on long enough to get real hot, but I have a new temp sensor being shipped since it is a $10 part.
    What I am failing to understand is why the sequence stays the same with the door interlock switch open or closed? Maybe the DMD doesn't look at the switch until it fires the lamp? but that would be silly, I would think that the switch being open would not let the lamp fire at all?

  • snoogyme2 Apr 09, 2011

    Drew,
    Came home from work and put a meter on the power supply that goes to the ballast, should read 300Vdc, I am only getting 160Vdc. Looks like this might be my problem. Lucky I know a guy that is good with power supply troubleshooting. The supply is going to him tomorrow.

    -Mike

  • snoogyme2 Apr 09, 2011

    Power supply is good, I was using the wrong ground.

  • snoogyme2 Apr 09, 2011

    Still trying to figure out why the DLP television is firing the lamp but does not display video, LAMP indicator on front flashes then goes out. After a couple of min. it shuts everything down and goes into standby. Any and all help is appreciated.

  • snoogyme2 Apr 09, 2011

    Thanks eagle, I have eliminated the door switch and temp switch with jumpers, same result.

  • snoogyme2 Apr 09, 2011

    Voltage @ the ballast plug is 320Vdc. Found and downloaded the Service manual, it points to DMD board, it recommends replacement : ( Going to verify signals to DMD from color wheel and lamp then I guess punt?

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  • 4,889 Answers

I have seen a similar issue with exactly the same model. If the tv is not detecting that the door switch is closed then my money would be on the sub-detect board which checks the status of the lamp door. The part is very inexpensive(about 15$) and that should be the first thing to replace to see if the issue will be resolved.

Posted on Apr 09, 2011

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  • eagle338
    eagle338 Apr 09, 2011

    If its not the doorswitch then it has to be the DMB. This is because the sub-detect board relays the door switch status to the DMD which sends the lamp enable command and causes the lamp to light up to normal brightness. However you should first try measuring the input DCvoltage into the ballas and the output voltage at the pins from where the two thick wires go to the lamp and let me know. The voltages are usually around00V so set the range on the multimeter to 1000V

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Apr 09, 2011

    You got it. The ballast voltage is fine. I am sure that its the DMD now. It can't be anything else

  • Andrew P.
    Andrew P. Apr 14, 2011

    I agree with the DMD, as I've already had you check every switch on the tv. hahaha

  • snoogyme2 Apr 14, 2011

    Turned out to be the digital board, bought a broke TV off craigslist and used the digital board before trying the DMD, as the DMD need to be aligned when replaced. So far so good...
    I think the broke TV needs a color wheel, and well, a digital board too :O)

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Apr 14, 2011

    Glad to hear that.

  • Andrew P.
    Andrew P. Apr 15, 2011

    Good find on the broken tv. Obviously a lot of good parts to keep around for the future.

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Apr 15, 2011

    Yeah. Nothing better than that if you got it for a cheap price!

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  • Master
  • 325 Answers

Fault protection. How is your B+ voltage to the projection lamps?

I've often seen this problem and a SIMPLE B+ change out will fix the problem.


Alright, here are the details. Power set on, - drewpalmer04.png

Here is what you are looking for to replace. This is right on the power supply and they tend to fail over time. Considering your tv is a projection, I highly recommend the replacement of the B+ flyback transformer.


Thank you, hope this helps :)

Posted on Apr 08, 2011

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  • Andrew P.
    Andrew P. Apr 08, 2011

    AH, DLP. Check right above the lamp housing. There will be a SMALL SMALL SMALL thermal fuse located here. These are rated at nearly 105 Celsius, however over time the bulb heats then cools, then heats, etc etc. The thermal fuse will fail causing this kind of behavior. You can "TEST" by bypassing the fuse by twisting the wires together.



    Try this, hope it works for you!

  • Andrew P.
    Andrew P. Apr 08, 2011

    They can look like these!



    Good luck locating it and test again! :)

  • Andrew P.
    Andrew P. Apr 08, 2011

    That is odd. Why not bypass the door switch (or order a new one to be safe). It seems there is some type of odd fault in it. Try to bypass it quickly and see the result.

  • Andrew P.
    Andrew P. Apr 09, 2011

    That amount of drop in voltage is directly linked to capacitance issues. It is either not building the charge or not dissipating the charge correctly. The drop could be a resistor in-line with a capacitor or a capacitor that needs an ESR meter on it to check the ESR value on EVERY capacitor that is in-line with the 300 volts that are not being made.





    Try this first (Get an ESR meter for the future, they are great for power supplies)





    Hope this goes well!




    THANK YOU

  • Andrew P.
    Andrew P. Apr 14, 2011

    If you need the link, here is the DMD you are needing.
    http://compare.ebay.com/like/27073100867...*I7&GUID=5ee513a512e0a02653071e27ff62d414&itemid=270731008672&ff4=263602_309572


    Prices on these have seemed to come down quite a bit...They used to be in the $600 range.


    Thanks

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