Question about Kitchen Ranges
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This one sounds like the defrost timer is not working and you are not getting a defrost cycle every 6-8 hours (or when needed). Another issue could be that air (moisture) is getting in from a leaky door seal, etc. and causing the freeze up. If you have a sealed system problem where the cooling coils are not uniformly frosted up then the defrost thermostat will not "know" there is an ice condition and therefore not go into defrost mode (same issue if the defrost t-stat is bad). After you have ALL the ice out of the unit it would be a good idea to take the interior rear cover off so you can view the coils. Start the freezer back up and watch over the next 1/2 hour or so to see that the entire coil is frosting up uniformly. If it isn't you may have a plugged system, a leak causing low refrigerant, etc. If over time the coils look uniformly frosted up you may have a defective defrost heating element itself (no heat, no defrost sort of thing). The defrost elements can be checked with a multimeter for continuity if you know how to do that sort of thing. It's hard to know a person's ability by these forums or if they can tackle certain test procedures.
Posted on Nov 13, 2006
The subject is a Eureka Model 350 hand held steamer that can be found at Lowes and other places for around $49.95.
With this steamer you can thaw out an evaporator as quick as if you were using a heat gun or hair dryer but without the slightest concern about melting plastic or wiring. By using steam instead of pouring water (yes many still do) there is little to clean up. With the many attachments it comes with there are other uses (i.e. cleaning, thawing drains, thawing IDI fill tubes, etc.). The steam also makes the replacement IDI fill tube (rubber end) more pliable and easier to complete the installation when used at the end.
This unit has a trigger and can be used to blow out a stopped up drain on a refrigerator by letting the pressure build up a little then blow through the drain with one of the attachments. As for thawing out evaporators it had a fine jet tip for actually CUTTING through solid ice.
Another great use for this tool is refrigerator door gaskets. The hot steam works faster than a heat gun with out the worry.
Note: Do not aim steam directly onto the plastic freezer liner. The rapid temperature change could damage the liner.
Posted on Jan 18, 2008
The door seal is at fault. Regardless of the small tear it is not sealing well.
Take a dollar bill and close it in the door. Then pull on the bill to feel resistance.
You will find it pulls easily in some place. That is where your air leak is that is causing the condensation.
Do this about every 6 inches all the way around the seal.
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
SOURCE: GE Freezer Not Freezing
I am not an expert, but if the defrost heater is not working, then maybe when it was unpluged the coils didn't completly unthaw. If not, the freezer still will not cool properly.
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
hello,kindly check your fan if the working speed is ok,because this is one of the things that allows a fridge to be cool when it's working very fine.
Secondly,kindly check if the condenser coil are not build up with dust and also check that the condenser fan motor are working properly.check for any clicking on/off noise from the compressor and also check it's proper runnings.
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.
*One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.
New link from Appliance Repair Aid on how the wiring circuit works for a frost free fridge, the link is here.
On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall. On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. A ball of ice on the coils and the rest of the cooling coils are bare or only a few coils frosted a little and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem. Example picture one, example picture two, example picture three. System problems may be a leak in the refrigeration tubing, an inefficient not 100% pumping compressor.
Posted on Apr 20, 2010
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