Imperial convection fan motor failed after a brownout. Is it the capacitor, motor itself, or is it something else?
OK door mech's first. The chain gear will not warp, it is probably a seized-up chain link and the turnbuckles usually wire-brush up fine. Add some release fluid and they should adjust easily. Check the grub screws in the chain gears as these DO work loose. The chains are fitted to the adjustment rods/turnbuckles with split links. The chains and links could be replaced if the old ones are just to seized to free off. Once the door is adjusted correctly, apply copper grease (Like the stuff used on brake parts) to the chains, gears, door switch cam and hinge points. Makes a massive difference to their reliability.
Now the motor. Several variants were fitted but if I am correct, all the ICV ovens had two 11-pin relays in the control panel one for high and one for low speed. If one fails in the on position, both high and low speeds are energised together (huge buzz no motor). The relays are far more likely to be failed than a motor (assuming a brown out was just a loss of power/low power and not a massive power surge/spike). Easy check for stuck relay is to take one out and check the motor on high then low speed. One would work the other would not. Now switch the relay that is unplugged and see if the opposite speed works. If neither speed works then check cook/cool/ off switch. The cool function and the door switch form part of a two-way circuit. If either the door switch or the cook cool switch are faulty you may loose the motor function. The switches have to be tested out of circuit so note the wire positions to aid correct placement when putting wires back. Only after you have done those tests should you go to the motor terminal box and test for voltage present. If it does prove to be a faulty motor, take it off and have it rewound or replace with new motor from Imperial. Certainly cheaper than a new oven!
Oct 27, 2012 |
Imperial ICVD-1-H Turbo-Flow Gas Single...