Question about Fisher Price Power Wheels Kawasaki KFX Ninja Ride-On Toy

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Need plastic steering bracket for front bottom right for power wheels kawasawki ninja 4 wheeler, where can I find it?

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Posted on Jun 19, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I just acquired a used Kawasaki Ninja Power Wheels

Usually the clicking noise is caused by a crossed wire in the foot pedal.
I would contact the guys at this website http://www.shopjandl.com/kids---baby-ride-on-toys-power-wheels.html
They seem to know how to figure these toys out.
Hope this helps

Posted on May 13, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: power wheels 4 wheeler problem

pontiac powerwheel stuck in reverse

Posted on Apr 27, 2010

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How to change steering head bearings


If bearing races are removed, the bearings cannot be reused, they must be replaced.
1. Support motorcycle so front end is off floor and forks are fully extended.
2. Remove right side cover and remove maxi-fuse.
3. Remove headlamp and headlamp bracket.
4. Remove both front brake calipers.
5. Remove front wheel.
6. Remove front fender bracket with front fender.
7. Loosen but do not remove fork tube caps.
8. Loosen all pinch bolts on top and bottom triple clamps and pull fork tubes from triple clamps.
9. Remove brake hose bracket from the bottom of fork stem and bracket.
10. Remove fork stem cap and remove fork stem nut.
11. Lift handlebars from steering head with upper triple clamp attached. Be careful not to pinch or kink control cables.
12. Remove adjusting nut, seal, and upper bearing out of bearing race.
13. Pull fork stem and lower triple clamp from bottom of steering head.

Jul 14, 2014 | 2008 Harley Davidson VRSCDX Night Rod...

1 Answer

2004 buick century high beams go out while driving


New dimmer assembly switch is needed most likely. About $40 on ebay, $275 at parts stores.
Replacement should take the mechanically inclined home mechanic about an hour or so.
The hardest part is removing all the plastic and getting the wiring junction box apart.
  1. Tilt wheel down whole way
  2. Two T25 screws remove the bottom plastic on the steering column
  3. From underneath look for two more screws holding the top plastic on, they are reverse Torx but a 5.5 or 6mm 1/4 drive socket will remove them.
  4. Remove lower dash "cardboard", remove the cushion plastic above this (where your knees are while driving)
  5. Remove metal part of dash behind the cushioned part. Four 6mm screws and four 10mm bolts. This gives excellent access to the wiring junction.
  6. Remove the two wire connection from the switch to the steering column.
  7. The bracket holding the wiring junction box to the dash is a real pain, there are two top/side clips that need released and then the box "rolls" apart from the bracket.
  8. With the box released from the bracket, you will see a 10mm bolt right in the middle of it holding the box together. Remove the bolt, remove two blue "keepers", one on each side of the box, they simply slide out.
  9. You can now pull the connectors apart from the box.
  10. To remove the switch itself, you do not have to remove the steering wheel, there are 2 T25 torx screws holding it on. The top one is easy, the lower/side one is behind the steering wheel but can easily be removed by using just a T25 driver bit and a 1/4" wrench. Hold the bit into the screw head with your thumb and turn it with the 1/4" wrench.
  11. Remove the screws and the switch just comes away from the column, nothing will fall out or get lost.
  12. Replace in reverse order, be sure to get the little brass pin for the horn behind the metal ring for the horn on the backside of the wheel.
I have probably made this sound worse than it is, it's not hard at all, just annoying lying on your back under the dash to get at the wires.

Jan 05, 2014 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

How to install a power steering pump for a 1997 chrysler seabring conv


Chrysler Cirrus/Stratus/Sebring/Avenger/Breeze 1995-1998
Power Steering Pump - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring Convertible and Breeze
(see Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the left strut tower. The ground cable is equipped with an insulator grommet, which should be placed on the stud to prevent the negative battery cable from accidentally grounding.
  2. Siphon as much power steering fluid out of the reservoir as possible.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove the right front tire and wheel assembly.
  5. Remove the splash shield from the right front wheel well.
c901554.jpg

Fig. 1: Power steering pressure hose attachment to the pump-with Variable-Assist steering

8786c07.jpg

Fig. 2: Power steering pressure hose attachment to the pump-without Variable-Assist steering
  1. Disconnect the power steering pressure hose from the pump.
  2. Remove the hose connection on the power steering pump.
e7733b2.jpg

Fig. 3: Typical power steering pump front bracket attachment
  1. Remove the power steering adjusting bolt.
  2. Remove the power steering pump rear attaching bolt.
  3. If so equipped, remove the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) hydraulic control unit heat shield.
  4. Remove the wheel speed sensor retainer bracket from the right inner fender.
  5. Remove the wheel speed sensor sealing grommet from the right inner fender.
  6. Disconnect the speed sensor wiring.
  7. Push the wiring through the hole in the inner fender.
If not equipped with anti-lock brakes, the hole will just have a sealing plug.
  1. Remove the bolt attaching the power steering front bracket to the mounting bracket. Access to the bolt is gained through the hole for the speed sensor wiring.
  2. Remove the power steering pump drive belt.
  3. Remove the power steering pump and the front bracket as an assembly.
To install:
  1. Install the power steering pump and bracket.
  2. Reinstall the bolt at the adjusting slot, but do not tighten.
  3. Reinstall the bolt mounting the power steering pump to the rear mounting bracket, but do not tighten.
  4. Reinstall the power steering pump top bolt, but do not tighten.
  5. Reconnect the power steering hoses.
b72b14a.jpg

Fig. 4: Install a new O-ring gasket on the hose fitting
Use a new O-ring when reinstalling the power steering pressure hose.
  1. Reinstall the drive belt.
  2. Adjust the drive belt and tighten the power steering pump bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  3. Reinstall the splash shield.
  4. Reinstall the tire and wheel assembly.
  5. Lower the vehicle.
  6. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
  7. Refill the reservoir and bleed the power steering system.


Sebring Coupe and Avenger
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove (drain, suction pump, etc.) as much power steering fluid as possible.
  3. Disconnect the return fluid line. Remove the reservoir cap and allow the return line to drain the fluid from the reservoir. If the fluid is contaminated, disconnect the ignition high tension cable and crank the engine several times to drain the fluid from the gearbox.
Cover any components located underneath the power steering pump with a shop towel to protect them from damage due to power steering fluid spillage. For example, the A/C compressor or alternator, depending on vehicle and engine, is below the power steering pump, so cover the A/C compressor or alternator with a shop towel before removing any hoses.
  1. Loosen (but do not remove) the power steering pump mounting bolts and remove the drive belt.
  2. Remove the pressure switch connector from the side of the pump.
  3. Disconnect the pressure line.
  4. Unbolt and remove the pump from the mounting bracket.
To install:
  1. Clean all parts well. Inspect the pump pulley for cracks. Check the hoses carefully for cracks or signs of weakness.
  2. Install the pump, wrap the belt around the pulley and lightly tighten the mounting bolts.
  3. Replace the O-rings and connect the pressure line. Connect the pressure line so the notch in the fitting aligns and contacts the pump's guide bracket. Tighten the fitting to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
  4. Connect the return line and secure with the clamp.
  5. Fasten the pressure switch connector.
  6. Adjust the power steering belt for proper tension and tighten the adjusting bolts.
Use only MOPAR ATF PLUS automatic transmission fluid type 7176, ATF+3 automatic transmission fluid, or equivalent, in the power steering system of Sebring coupe and Avenger models.
  1. Refill the reservoir and bleed the power steering system.

Hope this help to solve it (remember comment and rated this). TY for using Fixya.

May 13, 2010 | 1997 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

I neede to remove the headlights for my 2008 E 350 and need instructions. OIt appears that removing the front bumper is needed ? Thanks


Here's some instructions for removing bumper and headlights.

E-Class W211 front bumper removal (standard body style).

Tools needed:
- Automotive wheel ramps (Rhino ramps from Autozone).
- 1/4" drive socket set with 8mm and 10mm sockets.
- #20 torx bit.
- Floor jack, optional but useful.
- Flat blade screwdriver.

Instructions for bumper removal:

1) Turn front wheels full right to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of left wheel well plastic splash guard. It's difficult to remove this fastener once the car is up on the wheel ramps.

2) Turn front wheels full left to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of right wheel well plastic splash guard.

3) Drive car up on wheel ramps. Block rear tires. Open hood.

4) Remove lower mesh plastic grille. There are five attachment points on the top edge of the grille. You can get to three of them with your hand by reaching between the radiator and the back side of the grille. The two outer ones can be released with a screwdriver also reaching in between the grille and radiator. Once the plastic tabs are released, you can remove the grille by pulling it out from the front of the car.

5) Remove the plastic panel located immediately behind the bumper from the bottom of the engine compartment. This panel is held in place with nine sheet metal screws with a 8mm hex head. Five screws are on the bottom of the car and there are two screws in each wheel well at the inner lower edge. After removing all nine screws you can work the panel free.

6) Disconnect the cable from each fog light and remove both fog lights. They are held in place by two sheet metal screws with a #20 torx head.

7) Remove the side marker bulbs. The one on the passenger side turns clockwise to remove and the one on the driver side turns counter-clockwise.

8) Remove the temperature sensor from its socket on the driver side.

9) If you have a floor jack, raise the car at the jack point on the cross member below the engine. You do not want to raise it off the wheel ramps. But it helps to have more clearance above the tires to work in the front wheel wells.

10) Remove three of the plastic nuts holding the forward half of the plastic wheel well liner in place. It's not necessary to remove the plastic liner. You just need to loosen it up so that you can pull it away from the fender to gain access to the screw and bracket securing the bumper to the fender.

11) Pull back the wheel well liner and remove the sheet metal screw from the rear end of the metal bracket . There is only one sheet metal screw (#20 torx head) holding this bracket in place. Don't attempt to remove the bracket yet. I used a #20 torx bit in a 1/4" socket with a 6-inch extension for a 1/4" drive wrench. The head of the screw faces the ground.

12) Remove the 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding the bumper to the headlight assembly between the small lens and large lens (both sides).

13) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) on either side of the large grille area opening.

14) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) securing the bumper to the bottom edge of the crashbar. You can access these bolts through the front where you removed the plastic mesh grille.

15) Remove the three 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding each headlight assembly in place. Two longer bolts are on top. One at the rear outer corner and one at the front inner corner. The third bolt is accessed from the bottom. It's in the area above the fog lamps. You don't need to disconnect the headlight cables and remove the assembly. But it helps to allow the headlight assembly to "float" freely while you disengage the bumper from the fender.

16) At this point all of the fasteners holding the bumper in place have been removed. The only thing left to do is to remove the two brackets "clamping" the bumper cover to the lower front edge of the front fenders. Before you do this, position some cardboard boxes, bags of packing material, six packs of paper towels, or other suitable items to protect the bumper in case it falls off the car.

17) The bracket holding the bumper cover to the fender has a "pin" that slips into a slot at the front edge of the bumper cover. There is a matching slot near the front edge of the fender. It's not possible to see this pin from the bottom of the car. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the bracket away from the bumper/fender and towards the center of the car. The bracket will "hinge" on the pin at the front end of the bracket. After you swing the bracket away from the bumper, you need to slide it forward to remove it from the slot in the bumper cover and fender. You will probably scratch some paint off of this bracket with the screwdriver. I recommend repainting the scratched areas of the bracket before reinstalling it.

18) After removing the bracket from each side of the car you need to deal with the small plastic "hook" holding the bumper cover to the very front tip of the fender. This hook is an integral part of the bumper cover. Disengaging this hook from the fender is probably the most difficult step of removing the bumper. Simultaneously raise the head light assembly slightly, push the leading edge of the fender outward slightly, and push the bumper cover inward toward the headlight assembly. Don't get too aggressive with the fender. It's aluminum and you will make a real mess if you apply too much pressure on the fender. It took me about 20 minutes to free each side from this hook. It should take you less time, since you now know that the hook exists!

19) Gently pull the bumper forward and away from the car. This is one step where a second person would be helpful. But I did manage to do this step alone. There is a "pulley" like attachment point on each side just below the fender/bumper seam.

To re-install the bumper, reverse the order of the steps above. When re-installing the bracket between the bumper cover and fender, I smeared a thin coating of car wash soap on the bracket to facilitate snapping the bracket back into place.




Oct 09, 2009 | Mercedes-Benz E350 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I just acquired a used Kawasaki Ninja Power Wheels 745909993. I bought new batteries and charged them fully. When I plug the batteries to the 4-wheeler, there is a constant clicking sound, there is only...


Usually the clicking noise is caused by a crossed wire in the foot pedal.
I would contact the guys at this website http://www.shopjandl.com/kids---baby-ride-on-toys-power-wheels.html
They seem to know how to figure these toys out.
Hope this helps

May 10, 2009 | Fisher Price Power Wheels Kawasaki KFX...

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