I disconnet the front panel to see what was wrong with my clock. i was not thinking and disconnet with power on. my oven light was on for about 5 min then fade out . i tried to plug it back up and no power to oven. i am geting power from fuse box but front panel wont light up. please help.
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The F3 means there is something wrong in the sensor circuit, sensor/wiring/clock.
Shorted or open oven temperature sensor (RTD):
Solution: Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok.
I'd be on the hunt for a burned fuse I could replace, on those two circuit panels. If no fuse(s) can be found, I would be sad to think the circuit board itself got fried, and new ones can be goofy expensive, so here's to you finding a burned fuse!!
If you are having error code F1 with your Jenn-Air double wall oven this is because you have a defective touch pad or clock (ERC). This simple test will
help determine whether the ERC (Electronic Range Control or Clock) or the
touch pad is defective when F1 error code is present.
Note: Some models incorporate the touch pad in to the ERC as a single
assembly, in which case this test is not necessary. Simply replace the ERC
Warning: If you feel in any way uncomfortable performing this test or
making this repair, please contact a qualified appliance repair
1. Disconnect power to the range (unplug the range power cord or turn the
power off to the range at the circuit breaker). It is very important that
the power to the range has been disconnected, so please double check
2. Gain access inside the control panel.
3. Disconnect the touch pad (also called keypad or membrane switch) ribbon
from the ERC.
4. Make sure there are no lose wires, or anything else that may cause a
short when power is turned back on. Assemble the control panel back the
way it was.
5. Turn the power back on.
6. Wait for at least one hour to see if the F1 code comes back (usually
accompanied by a beeping sound).
7. If F1 comes back, replace the ERC. If it does not, replace the touch
My Jenn Air 1995 wall oven was working fine until one day the oven and the oven gas burner did not turn ON. I had electricty (make sure you did not trip a breaker) since my front panel LCD and clock was OK. I had a good gas supply.
My oven is an "pilot-less" oven, it uses an electric igniter. Although the "ignitor" was "glowing red hot", the problem is that the gas valve depend on a certain amount of current. If you have a 120V house system, I think the valve needs 3.3 to 3.6 amps to turn on. The current flows through the igniter and then through the valve, as in a same path, like water. So you need an AMP meter to check proper current flow. I read 2.4 amps. I replaced the "glowing red hot" igniter with a new one, Vo"la it was fixed.
Bottom line if you have the oven plugged in OK and you see some life (clock), and you have the gas turned on, most likely the igniter is bad. Second choice would be the oven's thermostat (the temp knob that you turn, say to 350F), or it could be the gas valve.
All three are in same current circuit. The igniter gets the most abuse so I would start there first -good luck!
I have the exact same problem with an F5 fault code. I also have a new clock assembly. RepairClinic.com said "Jenn Air fault code F5 = Hardware and watchdog circuits disagree / Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC)
Jenn Air Fault code for newer models F5 = Power to element relays disabled in cook mode 1. Intermittent oven temperature sensor or wire harness or, 2. Intermittent contact on power relay board" This doesn't help since it is too technical. What should I do next?
THE ONLY SOLUTION FOR THE BAD DISPLAY IS TO REPLACE THE CLOCK. I HAVE A JENN AIR OVEN TODAY AS A WORK ORDER TO REPLACE THE CLOCK FOR A FAILED DISPLAY.
FOR THE JGW8130DDB WITH NO POWER ANYWHERE, IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A SUPPLY PROBLEM. MAKE SURE THE WIRING IS HOOKED UP WITH THE RED AND WHITE WIRES RECEIVING 240 VOLTS AND THE WHITE WIRE ATTACHED TO NEUTRAL / GROUND.IF THE OVEN HAS A BARE COPPER WIRE AND THE HOUSEHOLD WIRING ONLY HAS THREE WIRES, COMBINE THE WHITE WIRE AND THE COPPER WIRE TOGETHER AND ATTACH TO THE HOUSEHOLD NEUTRAL / GROUND .
UNLESS YOU ARE SURE ABOUT THE HOOKUP IN THE BREAKER/FUSE BOX, DO NOT GO SIMPLY BY THE COLOR OF THE WIRES.
Spencer...I hope you did this with the power off! First, disconnect all connections and reconnect them. You may have forced a connector. Likely the board is blown...the display and microprocessor are closely connected.