Question about Cerwin Vega CLSC-15 Main / Stereo Speaker

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I have an older set of ls12's . The tweeters are always blowing. Can I just replace the diaphrams, or must I continue replacing entire tweeter? Can you give me a reasonable parts supplier also?

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Jthompson969,
Someone might have told you this before and they were right so I'm just going to repeat it, in the audio world, tweeters (like the ones in your model and many others) do not blow on there own nor are they easily blown by supplying them with a wattage more than what they are rated.

Remember wattage is relative, which in English means: you can blow a 1,000 watt speaker with a 100 watt amp just as well as you can power a 100 max wattage speaker with 1,000 watts without blowing it, it all falls back to our audio demon, clipping. Read the following article on clipping, learn and absorb because as long as you live, when there is an amplifier involved, there will be clipping (just how much is the key). This is an excellant article.

I will summarize what the article will tell you and be blunt about it! You are blowing your tweeters and will continue to do so until you understand this, your CV speakers are big and can create a very powerful sound provided you give them what they need. They need a large amount of wattage to perform to their peak. I can probably guess that you are powering these with a receiver, wrong answer. You need an solid state stand alone amplifier. Some thing the person who sold you these forgot to mention. Its not because they are Cerwin-Vega's or low quality, it the clipping from the amp that is killing your speakers.

Until you get a amp for your CV's, please keep the damage at bay and keep the volume down. Blast away after getting the amp. Below is a link to a example of the amp I referenced above.

http://www.crownaudio.com/amp_htm/xls.htm

Feel free to contact CV yourself and ask them as they will say what I just wrote but just nicer. You should replace the drivers with actual replacements. Use the link below to contact CV for replacement drivers.

http://www.cerwinvega.com/contact-cerwin-vega.html

I hope this helps you and your speakers.

-Chris

Posted on Apr 07, 2011

Testimonial: "Thanks Chris , words of audio wisdom."

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1 Answer

Tweeter no sound but speaker no problem


In the most general, basic sense, I would be assuming that this is just one speaker and not 2 with this problem, or 3 or more.
Only way to get the ball rolling is pull the tweeter from the cabinet, checking to make sure all wires are connected at the tweeter and inside the speaker.
If that is the case, then you would need to determine if this is the tweeters fault, or its crossover (thing that divides the sound into whats right for the woofer and what the tweeter wants).
If you have a multi-meter, you would disconnect the wires from the tweeter, set the meter to ohms and touch a probe to each speaker terminal. No action means burned out tweeter, 100% action means burned out tweeter, a reading slightly less than the rating on the back of the tweeter (for instance an 8 ohm tweeter would show anywhere from 6 to 8 ohms on the meter) means tweeter is good.
If you have no meter then take the tweeter from the good speaker and swap in place of the bad one, making sure you respect + and - connections.Its a little risky this way,since if there is something wrong in the speaker it may hurt the good tweeter..(the meter is the safer bet). If it works, then you need a replacement tweeter, if not the problem is either wire connections inside the speaker, or something is wrong with the crossover.

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Can i use another 4a 250v fuse for my cerwin vega LS12 if its not a (slow blow) ,and what would be the outcome


Fuses have different blow characteristics. Such to protect components differently. An extremely fast fuse would protect sensitive components like tweeters and slower fuse will allow transcients to pass and blow on long time fault. If you put a slow blow in place of fast blow, it won't blow as quickly, but it could allow the protected device to be damaged. In reverse, you put a fast blow in place of slow blow, it will blow at normal transcients and be a nuscience to always replace.
You can cross to a fuse of different manufacturer. The reliable manufacturers will have detailed datasheet and subsitute or similar fuse to the fuse you are looking for.

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Certainly your hf driver is getting amp rail voltage, this is why tweeter blows, disconnect tweeter and with the unit powered on check the tweeter leads with a voltmeter and let me know the readings, but surely will be dc voltage...

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I just replaced diaphragms in the tweeters in a pair of EV Sentry 200 speakers. The tweeters had 4 bolts holding them together. One of them was stuck. It's just a matter of gently but firmly twisting it back and forth until it starts coming apart. Make sure you take it apart evenly or it will bind.

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How do i tell if my problem if the high freq diaphram or the cross over


The crossovers in professional speakers don't fail that easily. It could be a blown tweeter. To confirm remove the metal grille-- remove the screws of the Horn Tweeter -- remove the cable connectors on the tweeter terminals ( Red and Black wire ). Now if you have a multimeter put it in Ohms range and touch the probes on the tweeter terminals-- It should show a reading betwwen 4 to 8 Ohms depending what is written on the back of the tweeter magnet. If you do not have a Multimeter you can take an ordinary cell/battery ( 1.5v ) from a TV remote and touch the terminals of the Horn Tweeter with the battery. + to the tweeter + ( a small red dot or mark will be there on the tweeter ) and -- to the tweeter -- . When you touch the terminals or give 1.5 volt supply the tweeter will make a scratching noise.
If you do not hear the scratching noise - it indicates a blown tweeter coil and will need replacement.See link below for spares:-
http://legacysoundservice.com/catalog1/product_info.php?products_id=1417
But if it does, you are in trouble and will need professional help from a electronic technician.
Could be blown HF Amplifier, suspect the crossover last. They seldom fail.
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These loudspeakers are being powered by a Crown 801 amplifier and constantly blow tweeter diaphragms. Can you tell me why?


Here are some possible reasons:
The amplifier has more power that the tweeters can handle.
Momentary DC or clipping at the output.
Too much high boost settings (from equalizer etc).
These are the common causes the tweeters to blow out. If you need further help, clarify me the speakers / tweeters brand / model.

In case of a problem or clarification, don't hesitate to post me a reply before rejecting my answer.
If you are satisfied, rate my solution with the "thumbs" or (even better) add a testimonial.

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I have a kenwwod AX-7 home theatre systems. the right side top speaker (tweeter) on one side does not work. i'm thinking there is a fualt with the amplifier on the right side.


If the only problem is the tweeter, and the woofer is still working, you do not have a problem in the amplifier. The problem is the speaker. The tweeter is blown or you have a problem in the cross over network in the speaker.

You can always switch the speakers and connect them to the opposite channel. You can do this very easy at the back of the receiver where the speaker wires are at. Put the left speaker wires on the right speaker and the right speaker wires on the left speaker. If the same speaker still has no tweeter you know that the speaker is the problem.

The only way this could be a problem in the amplifier is if you have two different sets of inputs for each speaker, one being the low end for the woofer and the other being the high end for the mid range and tweeter. That would mean you have two sets of speaker wires going to each speaker. Each set of speaker wires would have a positive wire and a negative wire for a total of 4 wires going to each speaker. I don't remember this system being set up that way, but I could be wrong.

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