Question about Coleman Mach III Air Conditioner
Sorry we have no referral service here or anyway to locate the parts for you. That said my friend had to have his custom made. He is in Calif and I don't know where he had it made.
Posted on Jul 24, 2017
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I just replaced my two 620315.321 shrouds with the newer style without any problems. I went to the Camping World site (and called them) with model no. and they knew what to send me. I also found that they had the best price at $79.00 (member price) with free shipping.
I didnt check your shroud part no.s, but think you will be ok if you do as I did.
If you have any question about installing, you can email me at email@example.com
Posted on May 05, 2009
Turn the selector switch to “Cool” and the
thermostat to a low temperature (below room temperature).
The fan runs OK, but the unit does not cool. When the unit
housing is removed, we observe that the compressor does not
run; however, it periodically hums for 15 to 30 seconds.
Possible Causes- Check all of this before buying a new unit, that may not be the solution.
“The voltage could be low – ”
a) Check the voltage between #1 on the
overload switch and the “R” terminal of the
compressor while it is not humming. This
voltage must be 115 volts domestic USA
models or 240 volts export/overseas models.
No less than minus 10% is allowable.
b) Check the voltage from “C” or “R” of the
compressor while it is humming (trying to
start). The latter reading will probably be
lower, but it still must be 103.5 volts
minimum domestic USA or 216 volts
minimum export/overseas models.
If the first reading is above 103.5V domestic USA and
the second is under 103.5V domestic USA, there is
too much voltage drop in the lines - a situation which
must be corrected for the air conditioner to perform
safely and satisfactorily.
2. “A capacitor could be shorted, weak or open.”
Turn the power off.
Caution – There is always a chance that a capacitor is
holding a residual charge, so before touching a
terminal, discharge the capacitor as explained earlier
in this booklet.
Remove capacitors, visually examine them and test
them per instructions given in earlier section on
capacitor testing (See page 9).
If the capacitors test OK, replace them and carefully
reconnect the wires. Be sure the wires are connected
to the right terminals.
3. “Start relay contacts could be open – ” if so equipped.
Turn off all power, then check for continuity with
ohm meter between terminals 1 & 2.
4. “Compressor start winding could be open or
Check compressor windings per instructions. See the
section on the compressors (See page 8).
5. “Compressor could be mechanically stuck.”
This very rarely occurs and when it does, it is usually
after a lengthy shutdown. This should be considered
only after all the above possible causes have been
positively eliminated. To free a stuck compressor, use
your hermetic analyzer according to the
Posted on Jun 29, 2009
many times the pan of the evaporator in intergral with the drainage. You need to pull the cover and see which way the pan is pitched you should be able to trace it that way.
Posted on Jul 12, 2009
Hi, most all a/c that are on the market are designed for that exact temperature, 95*F. After that they will loose up to 40 % of there efficiency. But tripping the breaker indicates it is working to hard and over ampping so there is a problem up top. It may just be a very dirty condenser coil which will cause this unit to build the high head pressure causing the compressor to draw more amps then normal and will trip this breaker. If you can, go up and remove the cover. Watch it run to see if the condenser fan motor is running good. Look at the coil for dust and dirt build up. Its a good sign that it cools at 95* F, so I believe its just a dirty condenser coil. This will cause your internal pressures to peg out in temperatures at 95 and above!.Even if it looks OK, kill the power and run a water hose up top. Was out this coil and watch the dirt run out of it. I have seen the head pressure on units at 400 P.S.I. with a dirty coil and after washing drop 200 P.S.I!! If the fan is running good, this will be your problem. Before you go up, take a good flat heat screw driver along and when you are done cleaning this check the electrical box, and make sure all of the main connections are good and tight. Check to see if there are any signs of burned wires as this will also trip breakers as when loose they will create heat and burn the ends. This will solve your problem. You may want to check the 2- wires at the breaker also, just be sure it is off and tighten just the wires that go into the breaker as they will be dead at that point. Please use caution!. Doing all of this will take care of your problem, I am sure unless you have a internal compressor problem which I don't believe you do. Please don't forget to rate me as I know you will be kind to me. Please keep me posted and I will be checking up on you also. I wish you the best.
A/C, Heating Contractor
Posted on Aug 28, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 25, 2015 | Depo Auto Parts Hyundai Elantra New AC...
May 10, 2014 | Coleman Air Conditioner Shroud Rv Roof Top...
Dec 08, 2013 | Coleman Air Conditioner Shroud Rv Roof Top...
Dec 08, 2012 | Dometic 3309518.003 Brisk Air Conditioner...
Oct 11, 2012 | Dometic Rooftop RV Air Conditioner
Jul 07, 2009 | Coleman Mach III Air Conditioner
May 05, 2009 | Dometic Rooftop RV Air Conditioner
109 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: