Question about Leisure HOMEPRIDE Electric Fireplace Heater w/ Remote

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Motor that turns the flame to the heat surge I would just like to order the part

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If you're under the one year standard Warranty, since you purchased the heater, Heat Sure will replace it for you. If you're out of warranty contact Heat Surge 800-924-7964 and you can purchase the motor from them.

Posted on Apr 07, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My heat surge will beep and light will blink


maybe the thermal fuse. $1.78 today at Radio Shack or
As to the cold air problem, it's most likely broken a wire in the heater coil, which makes it non-functional. This is an easily replaceable part by any Heat Surge repair station. If you care to try it yourself, you'll need a new bi-metal heater, part #30000216, $24.95. A site called TotalVac.com has them for that price. If there are any seriously blackened or charred connections they should be replaced also. The flame not rolling could be a stuck shaft on the little motor that runs the flame rod. If you're careful you can reach up in through the bulb access panel and find the flame rod, I would take the bulbs out or at least unscrew them part way so they are not lit. They get quite hot and if you lay your arm against one it won't feel good. So, after you've unscrewed the bulb nearest the right hand end, reach up in behind the screen and find the flame shaft, work your way over to the right end of it and you should feel the motor connection. Try to turn the shaft while the unit is on and the lights should be running, if it feels like it's trying to run but just can't quite make it, then it could just be dirty. Disassembly to get to it to take it off for replacement or repair is quite lengthy so you might want to have that done by a professional repair shop. I think that motor is about the same cost, right around the $24 area.

Oct 06, 2014 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

When i turn the heat up sometimes it takes a long time for the gas furnace to start ..why?


Watch your furnace when you turn the thermostat up...make sure to record everything that it is doing. If you have an induced draft, forced air system, then the heat sequence of order should go like this... Initial call for heat from tstat, Inducer vent motor turns on-pulls in the pressure switch, circuit board sends power to igniter whether it is spark or hot surface, then gas valve opens. Flame sensor senses flame, burner stays on, and blower motor kicks in to heat the space. If you notice any variance from this, then something needs to be checked by an HVAC Service Tech.

Dec 14, 2013 | Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Heater

1 Answer

Fan is blowing in furnace, thermostat raised 10 degrees over ambient temperature and not heating home. Red and green lights blinking intermittently on control board.


Cycle the power first & see if the furnace goes through the normal sequence of order. On a call for heat, the vent inducer motor should turn on and the pressure switch should prove negative draft in the heat exchanger. the board then should power the ignition phase whenter it is hot surface ignition, or spark, you should hear a spark or see the orange glow of the ignitor & the gas valve is timed to turn on. If you have proper gas to the furnace, it should allow the gas to flow through the gas valve & ignite the flame. Once the flame is ignited, the romote or local sensor should sense the flame & the blower then kicks on from the time delay in the board. If you don't have any ignition, then something is wrong with either the ignitor, ignition module, pressure switch, or you have a manual limit that is tripped(this looks like a small 1/2 inch disc with a reset button on it) If you have ignition & the flame lights, but drops out, then your flame sensor is dirty & needs a touch of sand paper to clean it up(this looks like a 3 inch metal rod opposite of the ignitor) Make sure your power is off when you clean the sensor if you need to. Also if there is no ignition & the vent inducer motor is running... if it is hot surface igniton, there is a molex plug on the leead wires to it- disconnect & check continuity- should be under 110 ohms.

Sep 03, 2011 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

Heats to only 300 degrees? i have replaced everything, sugestions?


This is a common problem with grills purchased after 2001. There is a new safety feature inside the regulator called a 'surge protector'. If you open your propane bottle valve too quickly or if you try attaching a tank with the tank valve in the 'open' position, the propane wants to 'surge' into the grill.

When the propane surges into the regulator (located on the grill hose) the 'surge protector' (inside the regulator) kicks on. When this happens you will not be able to get your grill lit, and if you do, it will be a small blue flame and the grill will not heat up.

So what to do if you trip the surge protector and can't get your grill to light or heat up?

Shut the tank off and shut the valves on the grill off. Disconnect the tank from the grill hose. When you disconnect the tank from the hose you will hear the excess pressure of propane release. This is an indication that you have re-set the regulator's surge protector.

Now that you have deactivated or reset the surge protector, reconnect the tank. Make sure the valve on the tank and the valves on the grill are in the closed and in the off position. After you reconnect the tank to the hose, SLOWLY open the tank valve (making sure the valves on the grill are in the OFF position).

Since you have slowly opened the valve on the tank, the propane did not surge into the regulator and the surge protector did not activate.

Now open 1 valve on the grill and light it. You should get a nice flame. If your grill has more than one valve, open each following valve in sequential order to extend the flames to the other burners.

Thanks for reading and I hope this helps.

Ben Gaetani

Tanks 2 You Propane

propanetanks2you.com

Tanks2youpropane@gmail.com

Mar 29, 2010 | Jenn-Air Grilling

1 Answer

Flame not staying lit


This is a common problem with grills purchased after 2001. There is a new safety feature inside the regulator called a 'surge protector'. If you open your propane bottle valve too quickly or if you try attaching a tank with the tank valve in the 'open' position, the propane wants to 'surge' into the grill.

When the propane surges into the regulator (located on the grill hose) the 'surge protector' (inside the regulator) kicks on. When this happens you will not be able to get your grill lit, and if you do, it will be a small blue flame and the grill will not heat up.

So what to do if you trip the surge protector and can't get your grill to light or heat up?

Shut the tank off and shut the valves on the grill off. Disconnect the tank from the grill hose. When you disconnect the tank from the hose you will hear the excess pressure of propane release. This is an indication that you have re-set the regulator's surge protector.

Now that you have deactivated or reset the surge protector, reconnect the tank. Make sure the valve on the tank and the valves on the grill are in the closed and in the off position. After you reconnect the tank to the hose, SLOWLY open the tank valve (making sure the valves on the grill are in the OFF position).

Since you have slowly opened the valve on the tank, the propane did not surge into the regulator and the surge protector did not activate.

Now open 1 valve on the grill and light it. You should get a nice flame. If your grill has more than one valve, open each following valve in sequential order to extend the flames to the other burners.

Thanks for reading and I hope this helps.

Ben Gaetani

Tanks 2 You Propane

propanetanks2you.com

Tanks2youpropane@gmail.com

Mar 28, 2010 | Thermos Grill2Go Gas Grill 4656110

2 Answers

When I light my grill only one side of the burner has a flame, on all 3 burners. I cleaned everything and even cleaned each hole in the burners. What's next?


This is a common problem with grills purchased after 2001. There is a new safety feature inside the regulator called a 'surge protector'. If you open your propane bottle valve too quickly or if you try attaching a tank with the tank valve in the 'open' position, the propane wants to 'surge' into the grill.

When the propane surges into the regulator (located on the grill hose) the 'surge protector' (inside the regulator) kicks on. When this happens you will not be able to get your grill lit, and if you do, it will be a small blue flame and the grill will not heat up.

So what to do if you trip the surge protector and can't get your grill to light or heat up?

Shut the tank off and shut the valves on the grill off. Disconnect the tank from the grill hose. When you disconnect the tank from the hose you will hear the excess pressure of propane release. This is an indication that you have re-set the regulator's surge protector.

Now that you have deactivated or reset the surge protector, reconnect the tank. Make sure the valve on the tank and the valves on the grill are in the closed and in the off position. After you reconnect the tank to the hose, SLOWLY open the tank valve (making sure the valves on the grill are in the OFF position).

Since you have slowly opened the valve on the tank, the propane did not surge into the regulator and the surge protector did not activate.

Now open 1 valve on the grill and light it. You should get a nice flame. If your grill has more than one valve, open each following valve in sequential order to extend the flames to the other burners.

Thanks for reading and I hope this helps.

Ben Gaetani

Tanks 2 You Propane

propanetanks2you.com

Tanks2youpropane@gmail.com

Mar 02, 2010 | Grilling

1 Answer

One burner barely lights; others don't light at all.


This is a common problem with grills purchased after 2001 or with a full propane tank with a lot of pressure in it. There is a new safety feature inside the regulator called a 'surge protector'. If you open your propane bottle valve too quickly or if you try attaching a tank with the tank valve in the 'open' position, the propane wants to 'surge' into the grill.

When the propane surges into the regulator (located on the grill hose) the 'surge protector' (inside the regulator) kicks on. When this happens you will not be able to get your grill lit, and if you do, it will be a small blue flame and the grill will not heat up.

So what to do if you trip the surge protector and can't get your grill to light or heat up?

Shut the tank off and shut the valves on the grill off. Disconnect the tank from the grill hose. When you disconnect the tank from the hose you will hear the excess pressure of propane release. This is an indication that you have re-set the regulator's surge protector.

Now that you have deactivated or reset the surge protector, reconnect the tank. Make sure the valve on the tank and the valves on the grill are in the closed and in the off position. After you reconnect the tank to the hose, SLOWLY open the tank valve (making sure the valves on the grill are in the OFF position).

Since you have slowly opened the valve on the tank, the propane did not surge into the regulator and the surge protector did not activate.

Now open 1 valve on the grill and light it. You should get a nice flame. If your grill has more than one valve, open each following valve in sequential order to extend the flames to the other burners.

Thanks for reading and I hope this helps.

Ben Gaetani

Tanks 2 You Propane

propanetanks2you.com

Tanks2youpropane@gmail.com

Feb 23, 2010 | Weber Genesis Silver B Grill

2 Answers

Is not heating properly , the flame is not as strong as it used to be.


This is a common problem with grills purchased after 2001. There is a new safety feature inside the regulator called a 'surge protector'. If you open your propane bottle valve too quickly or if you try attaching a tank with the tank valve in the 'open' position, the propane wants to 'surge' into the grill.

When the propane surges into the regulator (located on the grill hose) the 'surge protector' (inside the regulator) kicks on. When this happens you will not be able to get your grill lit, and if you do, it will be a small blue flame and the grill will not heat up.

So what to do if you trip the surge protector and can't get your grill to light or heat up?

Shut the tank off and shut the valves on the grill off. Disconnect the tank from the grill hose. When you disconnect the tank from the hose you will hear the excess pressure of propane release. This is an indication that you have re-set the regulator's surge protector.

Now that you have deactivated or reset the surge protector, reconnect the tank. Make sure the valve on the tank and the valves on the grill are in the closed and in the off position. After you reconnect the tank to the hose, SLOWLY open the tank valve (making sure the valves on the grill are in the OFF position).

Since you have slowly opened the valve on the tank, the propane did not surge into the regulator and the surge protector did not activate.

Now open 1 valve on the grill and light it. You should get a nice flame. If your grill has more than one valve, open each following valve in sequential order to extend the flames to the other burners.

Thanks for reading and I hope this helps.

Ben Gaetani

Tanks 2 You Propane

propanetanks2you.com

Tanks2youpropane@gmail.com

Jan 18, 2010 | DCS BGB36BQARN (NG) Stainless All-in-One...

2 Answers

Charmglow electric fireplace flame does not flicker. Bulbs ok. HEF33WDG


You will have to connect a 12v dc power supply to the flame motor. The controller on the board has fried. I built a regulated 12 v dc power supply and tapped it into the bulb circuit so it will power the motor when the bulbs come on. You may have to find an electrician or techie to rig this up safely.Good luck!

Oct 12, 2009 | Leisure HOMEPRIDE Electric Fireplace...

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