Question about Washing Machines
The hoses are not hooked up right ...
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Water will not stay in Washing Machine
Posted on Apr 06, 2011
Testimonial: "THANKS AFTER ALL THAT, IT WAS THE HOSE BEING TO LOW. THE PIPE NEEDED TO BE RAISED UP MORE. "
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: GE Front Load Washer
Had the same problem and did 2 things to fix. Remove the bottom panel on the washer(3 screws on bottom front). Just to the right of the center is a white plug that you can unscrew. Before you unscrew, get an 8x8 cake pan underneath to catch the water that comes out(bigger if there is water stuck in your washer). Unscrew cap and take out filter. My filter had pocket change, bandaids, tape, hairpins etc in it(kids do their own laundry and aren't vigilant about checking pockets). Screw filter back in and put panel back on.
Also, lint was drying on washer tub viewing glass where gasket hit it. Gasket wasn't making a good seal there and thats where water leaked out. Clean the dried lint off. No more leaking for me.
Posted on Aug 10, 2008
Sounds like you may have a siphoning problem. Have you checked the drain line by pulling it up out of the standpipe while the washer was filling? You may have a vacuum causing the water to constantly siphon. The following link explains this:
Having the drain hose high enough may not be the problem. You could very well have the hose stuffed in the standpipe too tight, or placed in the pipe too far. Please doublecheck and let me know if you need further assistance.
In addtion, please post the make and model number of your washer for better advice.
Posted on Aug 27, 2008
It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: During fill only During drain and spin only All the time During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these: Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it. The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these: Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate. Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make
Posted on Jan 01, 2010
This problem is commonly attributed to either a water inlet valve leaking by, or a pressure switch malfunction. The following link explains how to diagnose the problem:
I've included parts sources (if required) and how to repair each problem. If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this information is helpful to you.
Posted on Mar 19, 2010
This advice is for a washer that fills and will not shut off, resulting in an overflow. Or, water is leaking from the washer while filling. The symptoms can apply to either a TOP LOADER or FRONT LOADER washer. This may be able to save you from an expensive service call by making these simple visual checks.
Water Does Not Shut Off and Overflows: The water level in a washer is controlled by the Pressure Switch. The switch is usually cylindrical in shape and has an electrical connection and an air hose attached. In many cases, the small air hose comes loose from the Pressure Switch fitting and/or falls off. This air hose is required to detect the air pressure from the wash tub as tub fills. With no air pressure, the switch will not function and the result will be a wash tub that fills continuously to the point of overflowing. The same would be true, if the air hose has any cracks, splits or holes in it.
Water Leaking While Filling: The other end of this hose runs to the air dome fitting on the side of the wash tub. If the lower end of the hose comes off, the water will begin to spill onto the floor under the washer, but the tub will not fill.
What to Look For: Check for the obvious. Make sure the air hose is still attached to the pressure switch and air dome. Then, inspect the entire length of the hose, paying particular attention to areas where chaffing may occur and at the points where the hose connects to the pressure switch and air dome. Vibrations from the washer can cause some wear if the hose is rubbing against anything, and the ends of the hose can stretch over time and not seal properly.
On most top loaders the Pressure Switch is located inside the operator console behind the knob that controls the water level. This knob is commonly referred to as the "Load Level", "Load Size" or "Water Level". On front loader washers the pressure switch location is usually located in the back of the washer behind the wash tub, or along the interior cabinet wall adjacent to the wash tub.
How to Correct: If the hose has slipped off, cut about ½" off the end of the hose and reattach to the pressure switch and/or air dome fitting. Take a small zip tie and place it around the hose at the point where it connects to the fitting. DO NOT over tighten as this can damage the air hose fitting. Just make the zip tie snug enough to keep the air hose from sliding off. If the hose has any cracks or holes, you can attempt to seal them by using electrical tape. Replacement tubing can be purchased at any hardware store.
NOTE: This is not an all inclusive fix, as the Pressure Switch can fail in some cases and cause similar symptoms. This is merely a preliminary check for a common occurrence that I have discovered. It can give symptoms of a major problem, resulting in a call for a repairman, only to turn out to be a simple fix that any Do-It-Yourselfer should be able to check and correct themselves. I hope this information is found to be helpful and saves many of you a future service call.
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Posted on Sep 30, 2010
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