Question about Microwave Ovens
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
If not, please post your brand and model.
It's probably the motor, but possibly the coupler.
One quick check is to remove the turntable and support / roller ring and try to turn the coupler. It should be a little hard to get started, then you should hear a whirring sound, not a clicking or grinding, which would indicate a bad motor.
If the coupler turns loosely with no resistance, then it's probably bad.
Here is my text on replacing couplers, which had steps which are necessary when replacing motors. Note that if yours is a built-in model, ignore the part about turning it on its side *grin*
NOTES ON REPLACING TURNTABLE COUPLERS
Copyright 2007 by William E. Miller - MicrowaveDisplay.com
UNPLUG THE OVEN FROM THE WALL FIRST OR YOU WILL EXPOSE YOURSELF TO LETHAL VOLTAGES!
Note that I am not encouraging you to work on electrical items if you are not qualified, and I assume no liability for any consequences of your decision to do so.
When replacing the turntable coupler on most models, it is necessary to loosen or remove the screws that mount the turntable motor to the bottom of the chassis.
It is usually easier to do this with the microwave oven on its right (heaviest) side because you will need two hands for alignment.
Be sure to put a towel or similar cushion on the work surface to avoid scratching the oven wrapper (oven cover) or the work surface.
It is not necessary to remove the wrapper or the wires from the turntable motor itself, but you may need to remove a small metal duct covering the turntable motor if your oven has one.
It should only be held on by one or two screws.
Although a broken coupler may come out easily or even fall out, the new coupler will not go in without at least loosening the turntable motor.
Look at the hole in the new coupler. You'll notice it has (most do have) a flat side to it. That flat side will line up with the flat side on the motor shaft.
When the old coupler is out and the motor is loose, you can ease the new coupler in the hole with one hand while turning the coupler very slightly back and forth as you gently push the motor toward it. Do not force the part in.
When the coupler has mated properly with the motor, you should feel it go in.
Be sure it's right, or you may break the new coupler or bend the mounting ears of the motor when you attempt to tighten the screws.
Reassemble in reverse order.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jan 13, 2008
SOURCE: Replacing door handle???????
gently pry the plastic from the inside working from the hinges to the corner. you will need to put something in place of the screwdriver when you pull it out to go to the next pry position (about every 2 inches. i use apex bits. you can use anything about the diameter of a cigarette. then the screws for the handle will be exposed . it all snaps back together.
Posted on Feb 18, 2008
With the symptoms you
have, I would most strongly suspect a shorted high voltage rectifier
diode or a bad magnetron.
The diode is a fairly cheap fix, and the mag will cost more and is more complicated to replace.
Here are some links you or someone you know can use (in order given) for test help, but read the safety warnings first:
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html (if it is NOT shorted, it's probably fine)
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html (continuity can be good even though it is bad!)
There should also be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
If it's within the magnetron portion of the warranty (usually 5-9 years) but out of the original full warranty (usually 1 year), then your manufacturer will cover the part cost, but not the cost to visit you or the labor charge to do the work.
If it needs a new magnetron, you'll have to remove it from the wall, then remove the outer cover. If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.
You can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here.
If you want to contact GE about having an authorized servicer look at it, or have them send you a magnetron, GE Customer Service is here.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Dec 07, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 10, 2014 | Whirlpool WMH31017AW 1.7 cu. ft....
Mar 11, 2017 | Microwave Ovens
Aug 06, 2011 | Microwave Ovens
Oven Capacity (cu. ft.): 1.6
Wattage (IEC-705 Test Procedure): 1000
Cooking System: CircuWave™
Power Levels: 10
Clock: Plus AM/PM
Electronic Scrolling Digital Display: Yes
Electronic Touch Controls: Yes
Kitchen Timer/Timer (On/Off): No/Yes
Variable Scroll Speed: 5
speeds (sub-pad w/ AM/PM)
SmartControl System - Concurrent Programming: Yes
SmartControl System - Help Pad: Yes
Beverage (Convenience): Yes
Cook (Convenience): 9
Popcorn (Convenience): Yes
Reheat (Convenience): 6
Add 30 Seconds: Instant-On
Child Lock: Yes
Cooking Complete Reminder: Yes
Defrost Type: Auto
Delay Start: Yes
Display On/Off: sub-pad
Express Cook: Instant-on
Reminder (24 hr): Yes
Time Cook: I
Time Preference: Control
Turntable On/Off: Yes
Turntable Size (in.): 13-1/2
Cooktop Lighting: Bright/Night/Off
Night Light: Auto
Rack Type: Wire
Sound Volume Control: 4
Easy Mount Installation: Yes
Exhaust Fan: 2-Speed
Case Color: Black
Color Appearance: Stainless
Door Color: Black/Stainless
Weight And Dimensions
Approximate Shipping Weight: 63
Overall Depth: 15
Overall Height: 16
Overall Width: 29
Cavity (W x H x D): 20
31/32" x 9 3/8" x 14 3/16"
Electrical Input - 120V Amperage: 15
Electrical Input - 120V Watts: 1480
Frequency (MHz): 2450
May 04, 2011 | GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven
Feb 13, 2011 | Microwave Ovens
It sounds like the magnetron may have
either failed or is not being supplied with the extremely high
voltage required to run it.
SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT
This is a job for a professional but if
you are safety clued up, here's instruction.
Make sure the !!!!capacitor is discharged!!!!! before attempting any sort of repair.
Check the door interlock switches first then the high voltage diode with either an AVO model 8 or moving coil meter on high resistance range for short circuit, (DVM's won't show the fault!), the capacitor can fail and go short circuit, the feed fuse on the primary of the high voltage transformer and then finally, the magnetron is best checked by substitution.
Hope that helps.
simple safety test.
Place 1/2 litre of water in a glass container. Measure the temperature of the water.
Place in microwave and heat on full power for 1minute.
Measure the temperature after it has stood for 1minute.
If the temperature difference is more than 9 degrees Celcuis the magnetron is working and producing about 700Watts of heat.
If your microwave is labelled with 900 or 1000Watts. That is about right.
If the temperature is less then the magnetron is not working properly and may need replacing.
This a only a rough guide and any doubts you should consult an authorised service agent.
Feb 12, 2011 | Cuisinart CMW-100 Microwave Oven
Jan 20, 2011 | Microwave Ovens
If you were to log on to the
manufacturer's web site, I think you will be pleasantly surprised as
usually one is able to download, by model number, Customer
Instruction Manuals, list
of Dealers for spare part supplies as required.
The information is normally free of
I hope this helps.
Jan 05, 2011 | Microwave Ovens
Sep 04, 2010 | Microwave Ovens
Jan 06, 2009 | Microwave Ovens
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