I had my A520 for a few years and it was fine for a while, but a few months ago I noticed that the far right side of all of my photos come in somewhat blurry. I tried wiping my lens with a lens cloth but that didn't improve it.
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Please check the photos taken by the camera on the PC and if they are seen to be good then the camera optics are fgood specially the CCD.
If so the LCD is faulty and you might need to replace.
however if the pictures taken are HAZY then the CCD is defective .Might need to estimate the cost of a new one.
The 400D uses flash assisted focusing. In low light conditions the auto focus cannot get a focus lock so it pops the flash a few times so the lens has a chance to focus. You will notice this will go away when in the manual focus mode (the switch on the side of the lens).
The only way around this problem (as people in a photo think the photo has already been taken and looks away when the camera actually takes the picture) is to use a hotshoe mounted TTL Canon Speedlight (430ex or 580ex) which use an infra-red focussing beam.
So you mean that when the photos were transferred to the computer, they were fine and now after few months the images on computer are corrupt .. Right? If that is the matter then I feel that its not a problem with the camera .. It should be some (strange) problem with the storage device on which you copied the photos to. May I look at a sample image please?
This is a symptom commonly listed for DiMAGE cameras listed on EBay for 'parts only'. Dropping the camera I had caused the same problem and carefully 'smacking' the camera once again did solve the problem but that may have been dumb luck. Sorry but it is a service task that may cost more than the camera.
This appears to be a failing component possibly the CCD.
It may be possible to replace the camera if this is the case
An offer to repair however will be almost the price of buying the next camera.
Contact the Canon support website.
* Get AF off the shutter release and onto the * button using the custom function.
* Use the center focus point only. Force yourself to pick what you want in focus, AF, then recompose and shoot, a habit far more effective than computer driven multiple AF points for just about everything.
* AF performance degrades in low light no matter what camera you own. This is life. At least if you control the when/where of AF, you can try and choose high contrast points in the scene to focus on, points that will help mitigate the low light.
* Not sure if this applies to you, but it does apply to many a pixel peeper...if something prints sharp at 8x10 or 11x14 then AF has succeeded even if it's a little off at 100% in Photoshop. AF is not perfect and the tolerances are not necessarily up to producing 40" enlargements, which is what 100% in Photoshop is. Having said that, in good lighting with good target contrast the AF on your 20D often will nail focus so perfectly that it will hold up even at 40".