The original defrost heater was replaced in my unit yesterday (unit is 8 years old - purchased 8/21/00). The heater that came out was a single tube, the heater the tech put back in my unit is a double tube. He reasoning is Kenmore made a mistake in manufacturing and put single tubes when they should have doubles. My husband spoke with Sears and they agreed all the new units have double heater but did not comment about the older model. I have read on the internet, the old single tube unit pulls 575 watts, the double units pull 725 watts. My concern is the original wiring is not strong enough to carry the added load of power and we will not see the effects until later down the road. Please advise, I am having a difficult time with the service company now as the part number given by the technician does not match the item in my refrigerator. Thank you in advance. Dorothy Deem
HI DOROTHY.YOUR QUESTION IS A VERY TRICKY ONE BUT I WILL TRY AND ADVISE YOU CORRECTLY.WITH REGARDS TO THE WIRING NOT BEING STRONG ENOUGH I HIGHLY DOUBT THAT WILL CAUSE ANY PROBLEMS IN THE NEAR FUTURE.IF YOU ARE STILL FEELING UNEASY ITS BEST YOU GET A SECOND OPIONION FROM A DIFFRENT CONTRACTOR.GOOD LUNK AND REGARDS MOHAMED.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
When you are
experiencing ice build up in your refrigerator and a part of the refrigerator
is not getting cold, either the fridge or freezer compartment. Then it means
there is a problem with a part in the unit.
three areas if frost and ice are forming in your freezer and your fridge is not
cold enough, test Defrost Timer, Defrost Heater and the defrost thermostat when
you detect where the problem is from, replace it.
DEFROST PROBLEM The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm. You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
The compressor and sealed system will have a five year warranty.
the freezer feeds the refridgerator with cold air,when you open the freezer door,do you hear the fan blowing,if not you need to change the evap fan motor,next take out the second from bottom food bin and touch back wall,if you feel snow or ice you have a defrost problem, you'll have to take off back wall,advance the timer till it clicks into defrost and see if the heater comes on,if so you have a bad timer,if not read out the t-stat and the heater,if there are plug in wires on t-stat unplug them and bypass the t-stat by plugging t-stat wire to heater if heater comes on change t-stat,leave the heater on to help you defrost the ice off of evap coil and use hair dryer to melt ice,hope that helps
Your refrigerator has an Adaptive Defrost control board located inside the fresh food compartment and behind the control panel where you adjust temperature. This is the most likely reason for your troubles the part number is 12002495 The next most likely reason is the defrost heater part number 12049801 and the defrost thermostat part number is 67003377 But replacing the ADC is the main problem for your refrigerator and should be checked and replaced. Checking the defrost heater and defrost thermostat would be a good idea too, Thanks, Sea Breeze
I you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow. You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model
Should be covered alright. Sounds like the defrost therostat is open. Is you defrost heater coming on. It doesn't seam like it is. As you frig runs it's cycle it will turn off the compressor every hour or so and the timer will turn on the heater in your freezer to defrost. Do you feel this heater coming on. If you therostate mounted on the defrost ellement fails to close then your heater will not come on and ice will build up in you freezer. These thermostates seam to be failing more and more these days. I've replaced mine 3 times over the last few years.
defrost problem. advance defrost timer to defrost (till it shuts off) . remove freezer panel, check voltage and amps to heater,if heater is hot, replace timer, if heater is cold and no voltage, replace defrost limit switch. defrost all ice, carefully! with hair dryer, no poking with screwdriver.
It has a defrost problem. 3 things could be the problem. 1. Defrost thermostat 2. Defrost timer 3. Defrost heater. The timer is in the fridge section in the middle of the console behind the controls. On that console you will see a little hole that will give you access to the timer gear that can be turned clockwise (slowly until it clicks) to put it into defrost. Take the back panel off in the freezer. Once you have put it into defrost see if the defrost heater comes on behind that panel in the freezer. If it comes on then the timer is bad. If the heater doesn't come on then it is most likely the defrost thermostat which clips onto the evaporator behind the freezer panel. It's less likely, but it could be the defrost heater itself but it can easily be tested with an ohm meter for resistance. Any resistance means it's ok. Let me know if you need further assistance. Would appreciate a solved rating for expert advice.