Question about Mountain Plumbing Air Gap Covers and Units - MT400U/PVD - Polished Brass

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Air gap: should the two holes on the top plastic cap be centered between the two areas (one hole on each side of the divided area), or should they be on the left or right side of the air gap tube?

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It doesn't matter which side the holes are on. Most people put them to the back so they don't see the holes.

Posted on Apr 05, 2011

  • IronRnr Jul 31, 2011

    The two holes should be on the same side of the divided area, the larger side. This is the side that exits to the drain or garbage disposal (not the dishwasher side). The packaged instructions are silent about this, but between the two little holes is a little arrow, pointing the direction of water flow from dishwasher line to drain line.

    The idea of the air gap is to allow water to freely & directly exit the dishwasher into the drain pipe under the sink (often through the garbage disposer). When there is a blockage in the drain pipe or garbage disposer, the water should be able to exit the air gap into the sink, preventing further damage to the dishwasher or plumbing under the sink. The tube-like plastic below the little holes is shaped so that the water will only go up and out the little holes if there is back pressure caused by a blockage.

    JJJones' response is in regards to the decorative cover (which also has little holes). That part fits over the plastic parts I describe above. He is correct in that people choose to point it as they see fit. Generally speaking, that's fine. One consideration here is ... if the air gap ever was to spew water, the water will spray out those holes in the direction they face. In other words, point those holes where you'd like the water to spray (into the sink, onto the backsplash, away from priceless decorations, etc).

    I hope the helps the next person. :)

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Tip

Cleaning the HP C309/C310 Inkjet printer


This tip is for those that have already tried HP's well-written illustrated guide to cleaning the print head (link).
I poached some of HP's images to better illustrate this tip (thanks HP)!
You might find that the HP cleaning procedure works, for a while, but that it degrades or stops working again. Or you might want to do a more thorough job because you are a neat freak. In either case, read on...


This tip is divided into 2 stages based on difficulty. The first stage requires no tools other than a pair of tweezers (or similar) and doesn't require opening the printer. The second (neat freak) stage requires a T10 Torx driver to remove the side panel for greater access.

Stage 1a: Get 'Er Done
Power up the printer and open the lid so that the print head moves to the center of the print area. Using HP's instructions (see the link in the first sentence above) remove the ink cartridges and the print head. Clean all the areas described in the instructions, and see if that fixes your problem. If it does go to Stage 1b.
If HP's cleaning method doesn't fix your printing issue, the print head might be clogged. The method I found, in an HP user forum, was to run warm water through the print head to it flush out. Remove the print head again, and look for small circles of silver mesh in the red circled area.
7_29_2012_8_31_02_pm.gif
Hold the print head under a weak stream of warm water, getting the water to fall into each silver mesh circle until the runoff is clear. Flip the print head over and clean the underside in a similar fashion until the runoff is clear.
Shake off any excess water and use a hair dryer on the low/air setting to get any water out of the electrical contact area. Let the air hit your fingers, and if its too hot for your hand then hold the dryer farther away. You don't want to risk damaging the print head at this stage. If you don't have a hair dryer use a fan, but do not use anything hotter - like a room heater or heat gun!


Stage 1b: Let's Keep it Clean
The area to the right side of the printer is where the print head is cleaned, capped, and parked when you turn the power off using the power button. Always use the power button and never just unplug the printer (or turn off a power strip) because the print head will not get capped and will quickly clog. In the following picture the parking area is under the plastic cover (P), but you can get a partial look through a small slot.

7_29_2012_8_08_50_pm.gif

If you were to take your camera phone and take a picture inside the slot, you would see this.

7_29_2012_8_17_44_pm.jpg

1. A very open/porous sponge inside a square plastic box
2. Two rubber scrapers
3. A waste ink holding tank


The picture above shows the sponge after I cleaned it. Unfortunately I didn't have the forethought to take a before picture so you could see the solid slab of dried ink on top of the sponge. I used a pair of tweezers to pick up the sponge and clean it out under a stream of warm water. The sponge is very small so use the sink stopper or some other method to restrict the drain opening to prevent it from going down the drain.
For cleaning I cut up a coffee filter and held damp pieces in my tweezers and wiped down the scrapers. Finally, more dry pieces were used to mop out the waste ink tank.
Stage 2: Minor Surgery
In this step I plugged in and operated the printer with the side panel removed, exposing myself to potential injury and property damage. Please follow the remainder of these instructions at your own risk!

If you have completed Stage 1, and your print quality is not back to normal or still degrades rapidly, you may have to do some further cleaning in areas that aren't normally accessible; like the print head cap. Luckily you can get access to this area by removing (2) T10 Torx screws from the top of the printer, (1) from the back, and popping off the side panel. Here are the screw locations.

7_29_2012_9_09_46_pm.jpg
Once the (3) screws are removed you can start prying the side panel off. Begin at the top-front corner, right at the screw hole. Lift the top cover a little and work the top edge of the side panel free. Next work your way down the front edge of the side panel. The side panel will gradually pivot away from the printer. Finally, you can lift the side panel free from the bottom.
7_29_2012_9_27_45_pm.jpg


To replace the side panel start from the bottom, engaging the two clips into their matching holes, and then press the tabs on the front edge of the side panel into the holes on the front panel starting from the bottom and working up. I found it useful to press in on the front panel at the same time to help with "buttoning up" the side panel. Finally, lift up on the top panel to allow the side panel to slip underneath. Replace the (3) T10 Torx screws and you are done.
The large red arrow in the picture above shows the path of the cleaning/capping mechanism. from the slot you can only see the sponge and the scrappers because the rest of the mechanism would be inside the printer. The only way I could expose the hidden part of the mechanism was to plug in the printer and wait for the capping mechanism to move into position. At one point the print head moved out of the way and I was able to pull the power cord to "stop the action". Here is what I saw.

7_29_2012_9_41_30_pm.jpg

1. Two separate plastic caps for the black and color print heads
2. The same scrappers I saw through the slot, plus another pair that was hidden
3. A soft brush.
In my case none of these items was very dirty, but if there was dried ink trapped in the caps that would tend to contaminate the print heads. I used more pieces of damp coffee filter to wipe down all these areas.
My printer worked fine after I put it back together, but you are following these instructions at your own risk.
Good Luck!

on Jul 29, 2012 | HP Office Equipment & Supplies

1 Answer

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My Asko D1776 appears to not fully cleanse dishes as there is a ghosted film and very small particles on the glassware and other dishware after a full cycle... help please!


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly,

Dirty dishes post cycle most of the time is caused by restricted drains or debris in the lower sump area of the dishwasher under the lower spray arm tower.

You must first check your entire dishwasher drain.
- Start at the sink connection by remove the hose at the sink connection and INSPECT the hole for debris (often this is a clogged garbage disposal port)
- Next connection working back to the dishwasher would be the Air-Gap. Pull the cover off of the Air-Gap then unscrew the top nut. Lift out the plastic U fitting in the top of the Air Gap noting the installed position because it will only fit one way. Clean the Air-Gap. Use a flashlight and look deep into the Air-Gap for debris. Clean it.... clean it... then re-assemble the Air-Gap
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- Last pull of the drain hose from the dishwasher connection and inspect the connection hole for obstructions. (Use your finger... you probably can not see directly into the hole.)

If you found debris... while performing the above steps you probably resloved your problem.

If you still have the problem..... then you will have to remove the lower wash arm (NOTE how you took it off... wash arm assembly can really kick and beat you) You must remove the wash arm support to inspect the sump area for debris. Then remove the debris / clean the sump and re-assemble. .

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

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