Question about GE Energy Star PDS22SIS Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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GE Profile bottom freezer french doors model PFS22SISBSS. The left french door's plastic hook piece at the top of the door that slides around a fixed piece on the refrigerator to hold the door closed, broke off. I was hoping to just replace that part, but the only way I see to get it is to order the entire interior door assembly 24. I only need the plastic closer part and the pin or screw that holds it in place...or at most the entire rod that it fits on, not the entire door assembly. Any way to just get that?

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  • GE Master
  • 2,205 Answers

Have you checked either repairclinic.com or appliancepartspros.com?

Posted on May 13, 2017

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE Profile French Door Bottom Freezer not cooling

I am experiencing the same problem with my GE fridge. We have already tried the Turbo Cool, but nothing seems to help.
Thanks
Carol

Posted on Sep 21, 2008

Techsim
  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: GE French Door handle loose

To tighten the screw the first step is to remove the handle. With this model just pull straight up on the handle. It can take a little force but after it finally unclips it moves up an inch or two then pulls straight out. Good luck!

Posted on Nov 07, 2008

  • 74 Answers

SOURCE: I have a GE Profile,model PFS22SISBSS,3 years

Possible main pcb failure failure which would cause everything to cut out and restart . Is the compressor or back of the appliance hot ?? Do all the control lights go out when the compressor cuts out ??

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: I have a ge french door refrigerator with two

Hi Laura,

The repair guy did what any repair guy would have done under a warranty situation such as yours... door gaskets. I presume he explained why he was doing what did ("why's" are important, ya know...). If he didn't, let me run through it real quick, OK?

Warm air holds moisture and cold air doesn't... that it in a nutshell. But what's important to note is that if there is an air leak inside your freezer you'll notice it just as you have, with condensation forming. This tells the repair guy that cold air is escaping and warm air is entering the freezer. The first place to look is the door gasket and that's why he replaced it. But now you know it wasn't the gasket, right?

So the repair guy didn't find the source of the air leak. It happens. The reason is that most "factory" tech's are trained on the fly and have the habit of not looking too deep into a problem 'cause they're warranty guys. They get paid whether or NOT a problem was fixed. See? Independent repair guys like me only get paid WHEN the job is fixed. So there's a GREAT incentive for me to get it right the first time, right? (I'm not "bashing" them. I'm just clarifying that warranty repairs are hit and miss at best.)

The thing you gotta think about is "How many places are there for cold air to escape and warm air to enter?" The answer to that question is "4". Yep. FOUR places that this can happen and each of them have to be inspected for evidence of moisture. They are;

1.) Behind the fridge where the ice maker water tube is inserted through the cabinet and into the freezer.
2.) Behind the fridge where the wire bundle enters the freezer compartment.
3.) Behind the fridge in the compresser compartment where the evaporator drain comes OUT of the freezer compartment.
4.) The door gasket.

Since your unit is still under warranty I certainly wouldn't expect you to chase these down for yourself. You should call GE again and have the repair guy come do this for you (print this out so you will have the above checklist). This is to protect your warranty, by the way. If you (or an appliance repair company NOT authorized to work on it) work on it, you run the risk of voiding the warranty altogether.

There's a product on the market called "PermaGum" (here's a link). It's used to seal air leaks such as this. When you talk to GE, try to insist that the tech have some on his truck when he arrives... I have the feeling that he'll need it because I suspect a leak is occurring in one of the top 3 areas I mentioned above (either that, or he didn't install the door gasket correctly in the first place).

As an aside? Just a tip/hint... I know that your fridge is new and all, but to KEEP the door gaskets like new for (almost) ever, use Vaseline on them. Yep, Vaseline. Open the fridge door, dab your finger into the Vaseline and smear a light (light) coat of it on the door gaskets all the way around. This will do 2 things;
1.) It'll keep the door gaskets from ever drying out.
2.) It'll provide a very good and air-tight seal when the door is closed. (air leak, Laura?)

There ya go! I hope this has helped you in your quest to rid you freezer of pesky condensation. If so, please remember to rate this as "It fixed my problem", OK? After that, you can mix up a Mojito and bask in the knowledge that you are a completely informed consumer when the GE guy gets there to finally fix your fridge.

Take care,
SG

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Posted on May 07, 2009

  • 653 Answers

SOURCE: Worst refrigerator I ever owned--a lemon

I won't say I can solve your problem short of coming around and loading your POS fridge in to the back of my truck and running by the scrap metal yard. Keep contacting GE and the retailer who sold it to you about your problems. Hopefully one or the other will get sick of hearing from you and give you a replacement. A 20 cubic foot over/under fridge with ice-maker can be had for $450 US, which should last you around 10 years or so, which is pretty much typical for white goods. I have had pretty good luck with Frigidaire and Hotpoint so far. I still wish I hadn't put the 40 year old Wizard Imperial 14 cubic foot bottom mounted freezer that I bought about 23 years ago out at the curb. Given the chance, it would probably still be working today, as ugly and inefficient as it was.

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

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