Question about Drills
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I just looked at a breakdown for this tool and it is not that clear. But to get an owners manual you can go to Searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number and look at the same schematici I did and also order a manual for about 7.50. Usually though on a drill press like that it would be a morse taper. Do you see a slot cut thru the spindle on both sides, if so there should be a tapered key that came with the unit. In that case what you would need to do it put the key in the slot and tap it with a hammer to remove the adaptor and chuck. Let me know if I can help further
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
SOURCE: Parts and manuals
You can download a .pdf copy of the manual for your drill press by clicking here.
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Posted on Apr 08, 2009
While roughing up with sandpaper might work, but the usual problem that causes a chuck to fall off is a mismatched taper or either the chuck or the spindle has a dirty surface. The tiniest bloom of rust will cause this. Additionally a mismatch of depth will also cause a poor fit. To fit correctly the taper must be correct on both parts and they need to be clean and lightly oiled.
If it is necessary to san these pieces, use a very fine wet or dry paper. I would not use paper beyond 320 and use a light oil such as kerosene or diesel oil rather than water. Check the dept by looking inside at the wear marks. If the inside of the chuck receiver shows wear so close to the bottom that you cannot ascertain any distance between the wear marks and the bottom, the chuck may be bottoming instead of tightening on the taper correctly. You can easily check it with some fine shim material or perhaps three to five thickness of aluminum foil. Cut five thicknesses to fit in the bottom of the chuck (not all chucks have actual bottoms and go clear through) but not on the walls that are tapered. Reinstall, and remove. Is the aluminum foil damaged/show contact marks? If so, did the chuck go on all the way and come off more easily? If so, the problem is bottoming. Bottoming is quite rare but can happen when different than spec chucks are used.
You might also examine the surfaces of both. They should look pristine with no scratches and marks. If not, that could also be the problem. A correct taper fit is difficult to spin, or remove during normal drilling operations.
Posted on Jan 04, 2010
Are you talking about the chuck key? That's the little wrench with a collar of gear teeth on it.
There are only a few standard sizes plus a couple of odd-balls. Last time I looked, Sears carried a good selection. If you have the old one, take it with you to the store. If you don't have the old one, find a way to measure or approximately measure what you need. Another chuck key that doesn't fit can be a useful reference. If you can find something (maybe a drill bit) that is a close fit into one of the three holes in the chuck, that can be useful too.
Posted on Jan 19, 2010
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