I bought a used Noblex Pro 60/150 E recently. My first roll of film has bad overlapping problem. The frames overlap one another by as much as 5 mm (quite consistently throughout). Wonder how to fix this. According to manual, there should be a spacing of 3 mm.
Just got mine as well! Awesome! mine also overlapped but it is simply a film loading issue. Make certain the film is loaded with the winding nob in the "S" position when the arrow on the film aligns with the red dot. Wind on to shot 1 and it will click and stop. All shots should then line up.
Another tip - take images 1 and 2 of the same pic at the same exposure of the exact same scene. Assuming the rest of the images are taken with the same lighting situation over the next hour or so your local lab should be able to clip test image 1, then process the remainder of the film ("push" or "pull") to give 5 remaining images exposed spot on!!
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A few things to consider:
-Loading: Make sure you are not over loading the film before you start to shoot. I have sometimes turned the film advance too many times and end up cutting down on the amount of usable film.
-Are you loading the film in a dark area and careful to close up the back just after it has started to load to avoid exposing it?
-Shooting: Are you metering properly when shooting? Obviously underexposed images won't develop. You should consider a hand held meter.
-Shooting: Are you advancing the film more than it needs to be after you take your shot? Watch the film counter and feel for that click as it hits the next frame. I have advanced past the next shot many times by accident.
Hope that helps,
This is due to a poorly manufactured and designed camera: it IS a Holga, after all...
What's happening is that the film advance is allowing the film backing paper (which has the numbers printed on) to slip relative to the film. All you can do is to learn when to compensate by advancing the film a little more than the numbers indicate.
Given that most Holgas are only designed to last for around ten to twelve rolls of film (they can last far longer though), you might not have to put up with the fault for much longer.
This is not the best solution as it indicates a faulty film back. The film should advance without resorting to activating the film-wind release lever. That is only for intentionally advancing a partially exposed roll of film. Make sure the multi-exposure lever is not engaged and that the counter does advance and the red mark disappears as you advance to an unexposed frame.
The battery for the Poloarid is in the film pack.
Each film pack has enough battery power to shoot the film in the pack.
The problem is that if the pack sits around for too long the battery will die making the film pack useless.
I bought a seagull 4a-105 camera and the film advance never seems to be consistent. Often times the frame counter numbers are not centered in the viewing
bubble. When I go to have the film processed, I have had as many as six
to seven frames either double exposed, or no exposure in the frame. The
best that I have managed out of 12 frames is 8 frames done
correctly. I followed the directions and threaded the film to where the
arrows align with the marks, but still the problem persists. Is the
film winder the culprit? If so, how can I repair it? The camera
cost me $217 new, and I can't justify spending $200 to repair it when I
could buy a used Yashica online. Any help or advice is appreciated.
Actually, this is a frame spacing problem, which is caused by the difference in the thickness of the backing paper of film which is available in Russia as opposed to what is available to us in the United States. Evidently the Russian film backing paper is thicker, therefore it travels farther when the winding lever is cranked. I found the following site which will show you how to test your Kiev 60 to see if you need to Kalibrate the frame spacing in your Kiev.