Question about Olympus SP800UZ Digital Camera

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I have a new SP-800UZ that will not focus sharply on distant objects using the 30 X zoom. Do you know how i can get rid of the problem or get rid of the camera. I have tried all settings but mostly on P Auto. This morning I took some wide angle shots and after viewing the picture using the zoom close up to review the picture it is not very sharp. Disgusted with Olympus. Bill Martin April 5th 11: 59 AM

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Look within the settings within the camera's setup menu (I am not too clued-up with this model but I'll try) Look for things like sharpness, photo effects, ISO modes and resolution. make sure the sharpness is set toward the sharper end of the scale, that there no added effects enabled and that the ISO mode (if not in auto) is set between 100 and 600.
Also, if you are using digital zoom you will reduce picture quality.
Finally, using maximum zoom requires a very steady hand (or a tripod) as the slightest shake or twitch will be amplified many times at the target - end of the shot.
Good luck Bill, hope this helped a bit.

Posted on Apr 05, 2011

  • Willem.
    Willem. May 01, 2011

    Sharpness, read Focus, can be not optimal when using the autofocus.
    Try Menu setting:
    Compression: Fine (to have more detail)
    AF Mode: Spot (instead of default Face/iESP)


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My old camera was an Olympus Camedia c-765 digital. My new one is an Olypmus SP-800UZ 14 megapixel. The more I use the SP-8OOuz the more disappointed with the pictures I take. None of them seem sharply in...

No, you are not wrong. When there are more pixels, the picture must be more clearly and you can zoom it more. Because you have experience with another Olympus camera, I'm inclined to believe that
something is wrong with your new camera. Try to put it on AUTO mode and see the difference.If everything will be ok, it means that you are wrong when you set the manual parameters.

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In short, no. As with all flashes, the capacitor takes a while to recharge (via power from the low voltage battery which is amplified to many thousands of volts in the capacitor) between each shot. How long exactly depends upon how far it's discharged each time, so for close-up objects which fill the frame and need little flash, the discharge will be relatively low and you may get a few shots off in a row, and for distant objects using a more powerful flash discharge it may totally discharge with each shot.

The bigger and more powerful the flash unit, the better it will perform in that respect which is why professional external flashguns are big, bulky and cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars. A built-in flash such as on your camera is a compromise solution and is not intended for heavy use. More advanced cameras may have their own built in pop up flashes to take close up snapshots, but for anything else have connectors to enable the use of more powerful external units.

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Put the eyepiece with the LARGEST number written on it into the telescope. Go outside during the day time and practice focusing on a distant object.

This is your LOWEST magnification. Then try other higher power eyepieces. While you are out there focused on a distant object. Line up the small finder scope on that object without moving the telescope. Use the small thumb screws on the finder scope to put the "X" crosshairs on the same object as you see in the eyepiece.

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