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My ge microwave model ge wes1450dn1bb was just dead this morning. I tried different outlets and nothing changed. Is there anything else I can do?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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MicrowaveSvc
  • 9086 Answers

SOURCE: microwave stopped nothing works fan lights buttons over counter ge spacemaker model jvm1630

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and

put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jun 29, 2008

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MicrowaveSvc
  • 9086 Answers

SOURCE: GE Microwave Oven JE2160

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Aug 24, 2008

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9086 Answers

SOURCE: GE JVM1630BJ Microwave went completely dead with no power

Sounds like the bulb shorted, which is very common, and the first time it blew the fuse.

It sounds like when you put the new fuse in and tried it again, the bulb was still shorted, and this time it damaged the board.

We see (and repair) thisa lot. The problem is on the control panel, whichwe regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about aweek.

Atour Web site, we have a videoavailable showing how to remove a typicalover the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

This light failure oftenoccurs when a bulb goes out and the filamentshorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without firstunplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such afailure on the controller.

This can often alsoaffect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can beinoperable or stuck on too.

Details of our serviceand critical safety information and disassembly information is at oursite, and our link is at ourlisting hereon FixYa.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of yourfull model number) for more information & help.

We'rehappy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate yourthoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

Posted on Dec 11, 2008

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9086 Answers

SOURCE: GE JES1344SK01 countertop microwave, no power

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If the cavity thermostat needs to be checked or replaced you'll need to pull the oven from the wall, in which case you can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

There should be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams by entering your full model number here. Once you have the part numbers, though, I would suggest ordering parts here at a much lower cost.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: microwave is dead as a door nail

There is usually a 125V, 20 AMP line fuse inside the microwave. Its usually mounted at the point where the power cord enters the back of the unit. Unfortunately, you will need to uninstall the oven (if this is an over the range model), UNPLUG it and remove the exterior case to access. The case comes off in various ways depending on manufacture and model. I found this illustration at pcappliancerepair.com based on the model number you listed this question under:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php


There is a line filter assembly listed as item 1420 in the drawing. This is where the line fuse is usually mounted. Keep in mind, there are different vairations on the model number you provided. You need to look at the model number you have and include all the numbers. I reviewed most of these models and they appear to all have the same parts. You can usually purchase a box of fuses at a hardware store for just a little more than what the manufacturer charges for a single fuse. 125V, 20AMP Ceramic Slow Blow fuses are recommended. If you wish to order on line, use the part numbers to search by comparison as the model number you listed this question under may not be available at all the websites I have provided. The parts, however, ARE listed.

If you have any questions, or need additional assistance troubleshooting, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Make sure you take any resistance readings with the microwave UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (removed) from the circuit. These ovens can blow a fuse by simply sitting idle. This can occur from any power fluctuations, brown outs, voltage spikes, etc. Or, it could be the symptom of a component that may have failed. If you find the internal fuse blown and replace it, only to have it blow again, you have a more significant problem than a simple blown fuse.

Posted on May 20, 2010

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