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I'm puting in two new lights and a switch the power comes in at the last light so it goes power-light-light-switch How do I wire it

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The power must first go to the switch, otherwise you lights will always be live and dangerous. Your Neutral (USA white) wire goes from the house supply to one light and to the other light. The live wire (USA black) goes ti the switch and then one wire from the switch will go to the one light and another wire will go to the other light. The way you laid out above will put your lights in series and your bulbs will only glow at half voltage each. I hope this makes sense and in this configuration both bulbs will come on at the same time and same brightness. If you do not understand anything, feel free to come back to me. This wiring is for US wire colour codes. For most other countries the colours would be black = brown and white = blue.


I'm puting in two new - hanspp_0.jpg

Posted on Apr 05, 2011

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My brake lights will not work the switch is new so i think the wires leading to switch are bad were do the originate ?


Usually there are 2 wires - one has power and the other goes to the lights. See if one is "hot" or has 12 volts with the car running. A wiring diagram will show where the power wire is coming from.

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Connecting lighting correctly


Don't know what you're working with.

AC household electricity?

Common (White) wire goes to all three lights. Goes to silver colored screw.
Hot (Black) wire goes to switch, then all three lights.

ALWAYS put the switch in the hot wire. Not the Common.
Reason?
Let's say you are changing a light bulb.
Your feet are on the floor. You are then considered to be Grounded.

You have the light switch off. You go to remove the light bulb, slip, and a finger goes in the socket.
Result?
You get shocked.

Hot (Black) wire has the switch. This time of you slip, and a finger goes in the light bulb socket; you won't be shocked.
The power is turned off at the switch.

Common wire comes from source. (Service Panel/'Breaker Box'), and goes to the lights.
Hot (Black) wire comes from source, and goes to light switch.
Then to the first light, second light, and third light.

Is there a 3-way switch involved?
Walk in one end of the room, turn the light on, walk to the other end of the room, and turn it off?

Post back in a Comment as to the exact query.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Jan 26, 2013 | Computers & Internet

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How do I wire a 4 way switch in my home


in order to wire a 4 way switch, there needs to be a total of 3 switches working to operate a device/light. you need a 2-wire coming from power source, 3-wire from first switch to 4-way switch then 3-wire to last switch. white wires (neutral) get connected together. Depending on the layout of the switches. i.e where the power comes from and where the switch leg goes to but a basic 4 -way switch is in between 2 other 3-way switches.

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I am replacing the single toggle light switch in the bedroom entry (formerly connected to wall outlet) and have a new dual toggle or tandem switch I need one switch to power the ceiling fabn and the...


Joan, In the box where you are placing the switch, you should have three pairs of wires. Each pair should have a black wire and a white wire (plus each pair should have a bare ground wire). One pair of wires goes out to the bedroom entry. Another pair goes out to the closet light. The third pair should be coming from your electric panel and provides the power - this is the hot pair. First determine which pair is the hot pair. If you don't have a meter or tester, you can temporarily connect each pair in turn to a lamp and turn on the power. Repeat until you find the pair coming from the panel. Turn off the power. Now take note of the four screws on the switch. Two of the screws on one side may have a small metal bar connecting the two screws together. With the power off, connect the black hot wire to one of these two screws. If there is no metal bar you will have to use a short jumper wire between two screws on one side of the switch to connect them together. Connect one other black wire to either screw on the other side of the switch. Connect the last black wire to the last screw. (There is also probably a green screw by itself. Connect one of the ground wires to this, and wrap the other two ground wires tightly around the ground wire you connected to the green screw.) Now connect all three white wires together (not to the switch) with a wire nut. Install the switch in the box and turn on the power. Please vote if you found this helpful. Good luck, and be safe, Al K

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1 Answer

Okay, I have the same problem... It is a cooper combination switch. There are two black wires that are coming out of the back . the instructions don't mention them at all. I am installing a new outlet...


Ok you have GFCI combination switch-plug.

Wires coming out of back of device are connected to "Load" wires.
Load are the black and white wires that go to fan, light, motor.

The black and white wires coming from circuit breaker connect to terminals marked "Line"
Look at back of device for markings.
Black wire from breaker goes to brass screw, white wire goes to silver screw.

There is one more set of screws on device. Device usually arrives with tape over these two screws.
This is what those screws are for: If you are working in a junction box, then three cables enter box.
One cable is for Line wires from breaker box.
Second cable goes to Load (light-fan-motor) that is controlled by switch.
Third cable goes forward to another switch or outlet >> and those wires connect to last set of screws on combo device. Black to brass and white to silver.

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I have a new combination switch ; I want to control two lamps from one switch i connected the main lines the white one from brass upper and the other from black screw and went I turn on the switch the...


The white wires from the two light fixtures get connected to the white wire from your power supply.
Then the black from your power supply goes to the gold colored screw on the switch. Lastly, the two black wires going to your light fixtures get twisted together with a third jumper wire. The other end of the jumper goes on the silver screw on the new switch.

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I have a combination single pole switch. Light switch and receptacle. In have running in the old box 2 white, 2 black and a ground. How do I install the new switch to have power to the light switch and...


You are replacing old switch-receptacle device.
New device also has switch and receptacle.
You want switch to control light, but not receptacle.
You want receptacle 'hot' all the time.

You have 2 cables that enter box.
Each cable has white, black and ground wires.
Ground wires are twisted together and attached to green ground screws and not discussed more.

Screws on new device:
Side 1 of device: New device has dark screw(s) or brass screws on one side ... these screws are connected together by brass plate. This side is the Hot side of device.

Side 2 of device: Other side has 2 separate and unconnected screws. These screws are not connected in any way. Each of the 2 disconnected screws sits opposite the switch and opposite the plug.

Cables.
One cable comes from breaker box. This cable has a Hot and Neutral wire. The Hot is black. Neutral is white.
The other cable goes to Load (light). Black supplies power to Load (light), and white connects to Neutral.
If you are uncertain which is which, testing is shown below.

Connect the device:
Side 1 of device: Black Hot goes to dark colored screw(s) that are connected by brass plate. (This is only wire connected to this side of device)
Side 2 of device: Black that goes to Load (light) connects to screw that sits opposite the switch.
Side 2 of device: White Neutral connects to screw that sits opposite the plug

One wire is left .. the white from light. This white wire connects to white Neutral wire. Since white neutral is already connected to device, look on back of device to see if there is a quick-connect hole for you to shove wire into back of device. If device doesn't have quick-connect, then twist white wires together, and add a short jumper wire to device, and then all the whites are connected to neutral. Circuit is complete.

How to test for Hot and Neutral
Separate wires.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground.
Tester lights up on hot wire.
Now test hot wire to other wires.
Tester lights up on neutral

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1 Answer

Wiring comination 2 switch, with exisiting light to new bath fan


Please note that there are many ways to wire this device.
In general, this is how the Pass and Seymour Legrand 1595-2SWT device is usually wired:
There are 3 wires permanently attached to the device, black, red, and yellow. These wires are for switching _only_ and are in no way connected to the GFCI receptacle at the factory. The black is "common", which means that this is the wire that is connected to the incoming HOT (black) wire _from_ the circuit breaker (or source). When making this connection add an approx. 6 inch black pigtail to it. (more on this later.)

The red is connected to the black wire (switch leg) that goes to, pick one, let's say the existing lights. The yellow is then connected to the black wire (switch leg) that goes to the new exhaust fan.

The incoming white (neutral) wire that is in the same cable as the incoming HOT wire is connected to BOTH the white wire that goes to the existing light and the white wire that goes to the new exhaust fan. Again, when making this connection, add a 6 inch white pigtail to it.

The switches will now work.

Do you now see that to power up the GFCI receptacle all one needs to do is connect the (see above) 6 inch black pigtailed wire to the "HOT" (LINE) screw terminal and the 6 inch white pigtailed wire to the "WHITE" (LINE) screw terminal?

In this case the lower LOAD screw terminals on the device are _not_ used.




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How to wire combo switch


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