Question about True 72 cu. ft. / 2039 liter Commercial Freezer T-72F

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I need to repair the door switch wiring its messed up as someone worked on the unit but unplugged all clips from the door switches

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This could be a bit tricky,
First you need to identify the kind of door switches, there are 3 basic types

1. 2 tags or terminals with 1 common and either 1 normally open or 1 normally closed contact

2. 3 tags or terminals with 1 common and both 1 normally open and 1 normally closed contacts

3. 4 tags or terminals with 2 common and both 1 normally open and 1 normally closed contacts

If you are fairly competent with wiring then you should be able to decide which of the drawings below suits you. But PLEASE switch it off and unplug it before working on the unit.i need to repair the - gordonbenson_1.jpg Hope you find this helpful

Gordon

Posted on Apr 15, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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The regrigerator was plugged into a switch that was controlled by a light switch. The switch was turned off and then immediately turned on. When that happend there was a pop in the refrigerator. In the...


Sounds like the compressor relay or the compressor itself shorted out. This is not because someone switched the power off and quickly back on. This would have happened anyway. Now to prove or disprove this possibility I want someone to do a electrical test on the compressor run, start and common prongs comming out the side of the compressor. Here is the test as follows...Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze
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1 Answer

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HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

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Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. this will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

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1 Answer

Long story but I had someone "attack" my T-72 Freezer and I'm trying to figure out what they did. I think they tried to replace the defrost switch with a non standard switch and stopped half way through...


http://www.truemfg.com/index_en.aspx?language_id=1&event_id=401
Go to this web site. Be sure to have the serial and model numbers. You can request a wiring diagram from the tech line. This is most likely your best place to start. True uses a variety of different devices so I would do this first.
Let me know if I can be of more help after you get diagram.

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1 Answer

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