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Honeywell T498A Electric Heat Thermostat, controlling radiant heating wires in bedroom ceiling. Apparently one side of the 240-volt line heats one half of the ceiling, and the other side of the 240-volt line heats the other half of the ceiling. On one half of the ceiling, the heat goes on and off properly under control of the thermostat. On the other half of the ceiling, the heat is on constantly, independent of the thermostat. I do not know how long this condition has existed. It was discovered during a recent Energy Audit of our home. What to do? I have downloaded and printed a copy of the Honeywell Product Data manual for this thermostat. Thank you for your help.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

hotuna
  • 288 Answers

SOURCE: Honeywell thermostat....Home cooling/heating system....Chromotherm III

On heat pumps, the normal setting is simply an air conditioner working in reverse. The EMT or AUX heat is a supplemental heating system using electric heating elements instead of the hermetic (compressor) system. As far as why the regular heat does not work it can be one of many things. low freon charge. reversing valve not functioning. The defrost cycle not working. Take your pick. you may want to call a service man to repair it as the electric (EMT) is not as efficient.

Posted on Nov 04, 2007

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 watt baseboard heater is making loud clicking noise

Hi
You do not give details as to the material the heater is made of.If we presume the backing is made of metal then the heat is deforming the metal and being screwed there is no expansion.Also why is the heater on the ceiling.Dust and other grime will give a smell-keep it clean.
Hope this helps
Jay

Posted on Nov 17, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: thermostat installation

how do I install a basic digital thermostat?

Posted on Feb 04, 2008

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: thermostat says ''Aux heat on'' and buzzes when we turn on heat

You most likely have a heat pump, the aux heat (usually electric) comes on anytime the room temperature is 4 degrees below the thermostat setting. Does the buzz go off when the aux heat lite goes out? If the aux heat does not shut off then the primary heater (heat pump) is not putting out enough heat to satisfy the thermostat. I need a little more info. Do you have a heat pump? Is it working?

Posted on Nov 26, 2008

  • 27 Answers

SOURCE: Honeywell PRO TH4110d Prog Thermostat not responding

cfheck to make sur ethat the t-stat is set for your type of heat. if you do not go through the instructions sep by sep then you will have problems. if you have then call a professional.

Posted on Nov 26, 2008

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Controlled by wall thermostat. Heater has two wires, both ends, white/black


so my question is this is electric heat? it sounds it so next question is it 120 or 240 volt. but you will have a black and a white wire from your electric panel feeding the line side of the thermostat then another wire loading from the t-stat to the electric heat. i hope this helps. Tom the electrician

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Lg rd3500 147* not working what doooooooo


Well first of all, I checked the manual, and this is not in there.
I was drying my clothes and it stopped working. The lights in the ring that choose what kind of a load you want...well the first three are blinking. The second two are not. It will not let me choose a load or drying time, and if I press start, the thing inside goes around once and then stops. I looked in the filter basket and there's nothing in there and I wiped the sheet off.
Now the lights aren't blinking and I can choose an option, but it only goes for like a minute and then stops
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. LEG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm check instead.
1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.

2-Canister for the heater element.

3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.

4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.

5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.

6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.

7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.

please comment on these solution by saying how helpful.mean vote.

Dec 23, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

I TURNED ON POWER TO MY NEW ELECTRIC WATER 40gal MODEL # GEM402 AFTER FILLING WITH WATER. WATER WOULD NOT HEAT UP. CHECKED THREMOSTATS BOTH WERE PRSET AT 120 CHECKED POWER,BOTH HOT WIRES HAVE 124 VOLTS TO...


The controls of electric water heaters are designed so that at no time are both the top and bottom heating elements energized. Nearly all electric water heaters of this capacity in the US & Canada (other places, too) operate on 240 Volts.

When the water in the tank is below the set point of the thermostat (in your case - 120 degrees), the top heating element is expected to be on - (unless there is an issue with the top thermostat or limit switch). The top most control is the "high temperature limit". It is identified by the reset button on it. Make sure this isn't tripped by depressing the button. If it clicks - it was tripped and should start to make hot water at this point. If not tripped, you should check for the presence of 240 Volts between the heating element terminal screws. Do not measure from ground to a terminal screw and believe 120 Volts is "good". To make heat, you need 240 Volts - not 120 Volts measured across the terminals - not to ground. The amount of heat created running at 120 Volts is only 1/4 of what it will do at the correct voltage.

If you don't measure 240 Volts on the top element, check the bottom element in the same manner described for the top element.

If unable to measure 240 volts on any element, either there is a problem with the power source (blown fuse or circuit breaker), high temp limit switch, or thermostat(s).

If 240 Volts is present on either heating element, and water is not warm / hot in 30 minutes or so, a defective heating element is suspect. You can change controls without draining a tank, but replacing elements will require draining the tank first. Do not power the water heater without first filling it.

You can read a very detailed "how to" article about checking water heaters here.

I hope this helps - and good luck!

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My dryer is no longer heating up and it does not time out, what parts would i need to fix the problems?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug
Whirlpool style dryer - no heat problems:

Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

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What are you trying to wire up?
Typical Thermostat Wiring for 4 or 5 wire Heat/Cool Thermostat (not heat pumps)
4 Wire Termostat
R = Red One Side of 24 volt Transformer
G = Green Blower
Y = Yellow Cool
W = White Heat
5 Wire Thermostat
with one transformer for both units
Rc One Side of 24 volt Transformer
Rh Jumper Rc to Rh
G = Green Blower
Y = Yellow Cool
W = White Heat
5 Wire Thermostat
With 2 transformers one for indoor unit
And one for outdoor unit
Rc = Red One Side of (outside) 24 volt (outside transformer)
G = Green Blower (outside transformer)
Y = Yellow Cool (outside transformer)
Rh = Blue One side of (inside) 24 volt (inside transformer)
W = White Heat (inside transformer)
COOLING ONLY Thermostat
R = Red One Side of 24 volt Transformer
G = Green Blower
Y = Yellow Cool
HEATING ONLY
R or Rh One Side of 24 volt Transformer
W = White Heat

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Reinstalling a baseboard thermostat on wall. two red and 2 black wires in box in wall, plus a connected ground. Older model Honeywell thermostat, niot mercury, with only 2 black wires. Tried several...


baseboard heaters are usually line voltage thermostats. the wire in your box sounds like a 240 volt circuit. either the 2 blacks or the 2 reds and wire nut the others. I dont know if they need to be connected to each other, not sure where they go or what they are to

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2 Answers

My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Replace three wire thermostat with four wire thermostat


From the two red and two black wires (and the specs in the pdf), your new thermostat sounds like it's designed to directly control the line voltage (120 or 240) to the heater. That's the usual way baseboard heaters are controlled.

Could your wires be red, black, and (old, yellowed) white, the standard colors in a 3-wire power cable? Just the red and black should be enough to control a 120-volt heater so I don't understand what the white would have been used for. If it were my heater I'd take off the cover(s) -- with the power off, of course -- and find out what those wires actually connect to.

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NO HEAT, CHECK THE FOLLOWING:
1. CHECK SETTINGS OF THE SELECTOR SWITCH. MAKE SURE A HEAT SETTING HAS BEEN SELECTED.
2. IF IT IS AN ELECTRIC DRYER, CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE OUTLET.
3. CHECK THE HEATING ELEMENT FOR 240 VOLTS AT THE TERMINALS OF THE ELEMENT WHILE THE DRYER IS RUNNING. IF NO 240 VOLTS, TRACE WIRING BACK TO OTHER COMPONENTS OF THE HEAT CIRCUIT. WHEN YOU FIND 240 VOLTS ACROSS THAT COMPONENT, THAT IS THE BAD ITEM.
4. CHECK FOR BURNT WIRES IN THE HEAT CIRCUIT. (HEATER, THERMOSTAT, HIGH LIMIT THERMO, MOTOR CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH, TIMER, THERMAL FUSE).

Apr 21, 2008 | Dryers

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