Question about Panasonic KX-FL511 Plain Paper Laser Fax

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Rod in gear box fell out

The rod in the gear box that has a cog on the right, rubber in the middle, and a hook on the left fell out. It looks like it should slip back in, but this is very difficult to do since the cover does not open wide enough to work on it. Paper will not pull through when making copies or receiving faxes without this mechanism.

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I think your machine has a stopper arm on the doc feeder. usually it will unsnap to allow you more clearance.

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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2 Answers

How replace trunk lid torsion bar 2005 malibu


There are two rods, one has rubber on it. I just replaced the one with rubber on it. Looking at the one rod that was still in place, you can see it mirrors the rod you are going to replace, the placement is just opposite the one that is in there. The rod has a left end that is a square "C" shape, and the right end has a "V" bend right before the end. First position the rod above the seat release cables (if you have them) then position the "V" end near the inside right top of the trunk. Then slide the left "C" end into one of the three slots (I used the bottom slot). Leave it loose so it can rotate with just the tip in the slot. Slide the rod to the right so the "V" is above the spring clip (don't clip it in yet). The right side and the left side of the "V" has to fit into the tabs underneath and inside the top of the trunk. Compare to the left side to see how it fits. Once in place, you can then lower the "V" down to the clip and snap it over the bottom tip of the "V". These steps are easier if the trunk is propped not fully open. I had someone lower the trunk part way while I lay on my back inside the trunk, and I used a small open end wrench to bend the rod slightly to get it to fit into the tabs. The final step is to position the left side of the rod so the torque will hold the lid open. I used a small open end wrench, placed it over the tip in the slot and rotated CW upward until straight part of the rod slid over the hook to hold it in place. This last step had me concerned that I could bend or break the rod, but I went slowly and carefully and was quite happy when it snapped into place and held the lid open.

Apr 16, 2012 | Chevrolet Malibu Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Where is the outer tie rod on left side located


It is connected to the left steering knuckle (behind the left front wheel). Very difficult to see without removing the wheel.

Mar 06, 2011 | Chevrolet Lumina Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I installed a muncie m20 tranny in my 72 camaro and thought the shft rods were set ..but turns out 1st gear was in the 2nd gear position i tried flipping rod paddles upside down now gears are locked up...


You are right about the shift pattern. Reverse is hard left and up.If your gears are locked up, you'll probably have to remove the side cover and reset the shift levers to their neutral position and then slide gears around to put it back on. With it back on the shift levers should point up toward the car floor. 3-4 is the shift lever closest to the engine. 1-2 is the middle one and reverse is the one closest to the back of the tranny. Check all your swivel points for looseness. If there is any play then you'll have to bush it out or you'll have trouble getting it to shift into gear and stay in. I used some old copper pipe to make bushings on mine, because it used to jump out of gear.
To properly attach your shift linkage, put the shifter and the trans mounted shift levers in neutral. Loosen the locking clamps so the shift rods slide freely. start with the reverse lever, which is the inner most rod on the shifter and tighten the rod nut against the swivel. Then tighten the lock nut. Do the same with the 1-2 rod on the middle rod on the shifter and then the 3-4 which is the outside rod . This should set you up, according to Chilton.
They note that if the tranny is 68 Camero Muncie the shift rods need to be shortened 3 complete turns of the lock nut.
Hope some of this helps.

Aug 13, 2010 | Chevrolet Camaro Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2001 kawasaki zr7s. My clutch is acting up. when i pull the lever in i have no clutch. i opened the case to get to the clutch, that rod thats in the middle of the clutch acts like there should be...


the "cluch push rod" should be pushed back by the cluch springs, if there was a bearing on the end it would have broken up and be laying inside the cluch case in bits! if you have taken the cluch to bits there is a thrust washer behind the cluch body and gear box shaft if you left this washer out you wont have a cluch? best bet is get a hayns service book for your bike maybe off e-bay and you will have all the info you need to fix it plus all the photos as well of all the parts

Jan 14, 2010 | 2001 kawasaki ZR-7 S

1 Answer

Shakes at an idol


Your right axle-shaft (intermediate-shaft) appears to be the problem here. (The right axle-shaft has a bearing in it that gets bad periodcally).
Remove the wheel cover.
Open up the axle nut side with a flat-end screw driver.
Loosen the front axle nut with the 32mm socket.
Remove the front wheel.
Jack up the car and support it on jack-stands.
Remove the brake calipers and tie it up to the strut-spring.
(Check your engine mount, transmission mount)
Remove the cotter-pin from the tie-rod nut.
Loosen and remove the tie-rod nut.
Pry off the balljoints out of the steering-knuckle(watch-out for the black rubber boot on the tie-rod).
Loosen and remove the strut bolts.
Push out the strut from the steering-knuckle.
Remove the bolts that's holding the bearing on the middle of the shaft-3pieces in all.
Use a large pry-bar to pry off the axle-shaft from its immediate end, or transmission case and flange.
Take out the axle-shaft.
Plug off the axle-shaft hole with a rag to stop oil flow.
Replace the axle shaft with a new one, and tighten the axle-shaft bolts bolts starting with the left bolt first, then the right bolt-second, and the upper bolt-third.
Reverse removal of these steps for installation.
When done: Add the required quantity of fluid/gear-oil to the gear-box to compensate for lost fluid/gear-oil.

Nov 07, 2009 | 1998 Mazda 626

2 Answers

Bissell proheat turbo 2x upright cleaner -how do I reassmeble?



Yeah, it’s annoying that the manual doesn’t give more detailed instructions and drawings to help with this, because you do have to take the roller assembly apart sometimes to clean built-up carpet lint off the unit properly. If you don’t do this, I’d expect you’d have more problems.

I have a different model number Bissell Proheat than yours. Yours may have different parts or go together differently than mine, but I'll tell you how I do it on mine and you can try my way out and see if it helps you.

(In all cases where I use left vs. right or front vs. back, as when these terms are used with a car, I am facing the front of the Bissell. I am NOT behind the Bissell, where I would stand when cleaning carpet with it.)


Here's how I put it together. This takes much longer to describe than to do, once you figure out where everything goes and you get the hang of doing it!

Attach the left arm with the two silver rods (ONLY attach the left arm here-- leave the corresponding right arm, which looks like the left arm except it has no silver rods, off the bottom unit of the Bissell, for now) to the left side of the Bissell, with a silver screw with a built-in washer. The screw hole is on the back end of the arm and the arm dips down towards the front of the Bissell and holds the two brushes in position so that they can turn without striking the top of the underside of the Bissell or dragging on the floor.

Put a small silver washer on each long, silver metal post, where the roller brushes will go, and slide it all the way to the left.

Put the larger rubber belt around both metal posts, about halfway to two-thirds of the way down the metal posts.

Slide the brushes halfway down the metal posts and attach the larger rubber belt to the cog wheel on the left side of each roller brush. Then slide both roller brushes with the large rubber belt attached all the way to the left so that the cog wheels are against the inside of the left arm. As you move the roller brushes almost all the way to the left, you may be blocked from reaching the end until you carefully work the rubber belt around a plastic flange on the inside of the left arm, but do this and be sure the roller brushes are up against the inside of the left arm. Make sure the rubber belt is still on each of the cog wheels when the roller brushes are pushed all the way left. If you turn one roller brush, the other should turn, too, because of the belt attached to both cog wheels.

Put the small belt around the small cog wheel on the bottom unit of the Bissell behind the right end of the back roller brush, and also around the cog wheel on the right end of the back roller brush. (The right cog wheel on the front roller brush is the only one of five cog wheels without a belt, when everything is assembled correctly.)

Put a small silver washer on the right end of the silver rod passing through the back roller brush.

NOW attach the right arm, using a silver screw with a washer, to the middle screw hole on the right side of the bottom unit of the Bissell. The right arm should mirror the left arm, so that the two arms hold both roller brushes in position on the right side and straight across the bottom unit of the Bissell. It is normal for the roller brushes and arms to be able to flex up and down a bit, when everything is put together correctly. The built-in washers on the silver screws which attach the arms keep the arms and roller brushes in the generally correct position but allow them to flex.

Now using your fingers you should be able to slowly spin the roller brushes without the brushes contacting the top of the bottom unit of the Bissell and without dragging too low against the floor. Check one more time and be sure the belts are positioned correctly around four of the five cog wheels.

If everything seems right, attach the two side covers. These are not interchangeable; the left cover only fits on the left. The short black screw goes in the back screw hole, and the long black screw goes in front.

Then attach the front cover. It's important to be careful that the hooks on the front cover are inside the side cover holes designed to hold the hooks before trying to tighten the last screw through the tab on top of the front cover. If you aren't careful about this, it's easy for the front cover to be out of position or to break its tab.

Try powering up the Bissell and see if the rollers spin correctly. Remember that the handle must not be locked upright and the trigger must be depressed with the Bissell turned on before the roller brushes will spin. (Sometimes people complain that nothing happens with the unit turned on and the trigger depressed when the only problem is that the handle is in the locked upright position.)

Good luck!

May 31, 2009 | Bissell 1699 ProHeat Clear View Upright...

1 Answer

Adjusted gear shifter incorrectly. Cannot locate neutral.


Ok.

Remove the rod altogether and get the lever in the position you want.

Once you're happy with that, pick up the rod and look at it. The threads at each end are the oppsite of each-other. One is right-handed (you turn it clockwise to tighten it up), the other is left-handed.

Take the two small locking nuts and wind them on to the correct ends of the connecting rod. DO NOT force anything if it feels like it doesn't want ot go, as you will cross-thread things and the assembly will be kaput.

Offer the rod up to the connecter at the foot pedal and the shift arm and gently screw in each end at the same time. Make sure that the threads match!! ie left handed thread on the right, and vice-versa. Once happy with the position, tighten up the locking nuts and off you go.

If you get stuck, re-post here and I'll help you further.

Ride safe!! :)

Apr 10, 2009 | 2004 Honda CMX 250 Rebel

1 Answer

Accent stuck in first gear,


There's a couple of rods, either on the gearchange linkage or on the outside of the gearbox, one does front to rear action on the gear lever, the other does left to right. theres usually a worn ball joint on the end of the rod which has probably fell off! Will need a new rod to fix the problem, a temp repair can sometimes be made with a couple of cable ties to hold the ball joint together until a new part can be got. 

Mar 06, 2009 | 2000 Hyundai Accent

2 Answers

Need missing gear that drives strirring rod for popcorn machine


Dear mpolly: I too am looking for the same gear I believe, if its the one that at the top of the long rod. Ours fell off as well and probably found by someone in there bag of pop corn. I will let you know if I find it.

Jun 30, 2008 | Nostalgia Electrics CCP-509 Popcorn Maker

1 Answer

Plastic strip fell off


Hi, if you open the open the printer, unit to gain access to install ink cartridge, if you see the metallic end which has got a hook on both the ends left and right side. the ink cartridge runs between the strip from left to right which should be connected above the ink cartridge meta rod.

< ------------- >metal hooks on left and right above the cartridge rod
======= __ cartridge rod

Let me know for further info.

Feb 05, 2008 | Dell 810 All-In-One InkJet Printer

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