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I have a kenmore fridge mfg p71103000s1 and the freezer is icing up on the back wall and fridge begins to warm.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: freezer works but refridgerator warm

you could find ice behind the back panel - worth a check. however the problem is probably ice in the return vent from fridge to freezer and the only way to cure is to switch off and leave for a day with doors open. if im right and you try this, if it re-occurs you may have a problem with the defrost system

Posted on Apr 09, 2007

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dididsaythat
  • 291 Answers

SOURCE: freezer wall ices up, fridge not staying cool

Is it ice in the freezer or frost? snow like.. big difference in problems

Posted on Sep 13, 2007

guly
  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: SubZero 550 not cooling, ice film

1. check the comp. working touch the top of the comp. 2.if the motor comp. working touch the high side tube of the motor comp. if to hot the freon is ok. 3. check the cooling fan inside.

Posted on Sep 24, 2007

  • 1073 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer Frost and Too Warm No Ice

replace the defrost heater wr51x10031

Posted on Apr 10, 2008

22yooper
  • 828 Answers

SOURCE: Water leaking from freezer down back wall inside fridge

Defrost water from a top freezer models exits the cabinet in the rear. This drain line may be plugged.

Posted on May 27, 2008

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Fridge warm, freezer has frost on back panel & is defrosting, fans work, just changed defrost thermostat, no air is moving from freezer side to fridge side, drain pan under fridge is dry


this fan needs to run when the compressor runs,check fan blade for being jammed by ice if you have this much ice on back wall as ice will stall motor,if no fan there will be no cool air to refrige compartment also the defrost drain tray will fill with water then freeze over which in turn floods the freezer floor and refrige compartments cause it cannot drain to the pan in the bottom

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My Kenmore Refrigerator is not refrigerating


if the freezer and fridge are warm check the start device on the compressor,alot of times you can smell a burning oder when this pops,also you can remove it and shake it,if you hear pieces rattling around then it's bad,also if there's ice on the back inside wall of the freezer then you have a defrost problem,also when you open the freezer door do you hear the fan blowing,if not you could have a bad defrost fan motor,open the fridge door,up near the ceiling on the right side you'll see the model number,send it to me,let me know if you found ice or frost on the back wall of the freezer or what you see and i'll be glad to help you

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1 Answer

Freezer is cold, but fridge isn't cooling, cleaned the coils underneath and the port between the freezer and fridge is clear of ice


Hello,

All of the cooling in refrigerators is normally done in the freezer compartment. A fan circulates cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator compartment to cool it. Most likely this fan has quit working.
Also note that,

If you have a Freezer on the top model Kenmore, with warm temps in the fridge, AND water dripping onto the top shelf of the lower fresh food compartment (FFC), this is usually caused by a clogged defrost drain. Since Kenmore is not an actual manufacturer of anything, they take other brands, i.e. Kitchenaid, GE, Frigidaire, etc., take their names off and put on a shiny Kenmore nametag. This is a common problem with Kitchenaid refrigerators. You can determine if your Kenmore is made by kitchenaid by looking at the model # tag. the first three digits will indicate the manufacturer, Kitchenaids begin with the sequence, 106.*.If this is indeed how your model # begins, keep reading. Since the water cant go down the drain tubing to the pan at the bottom of the unit, it builds up on the freezer floor, eventually blocking the air return vents from the fridge to the freezer, and the vent from the freezer to the fridge. YOu can check this very easily. Look at the ceiling of your FFC, near the back. toward the sides you will see two square holes, about 2" square, stick your finger and feel around the inside of those holes, do you feel any ice/frost, or do you just feel styrofoam, you might even see frost/ice below the level of your ceiling? This drain usually gets clogged with defrost water that does not completely drain, then of course it freezes, eventually plugging up the drian hole located at the level of your freezer floor, behind the back wall. The water keeps accumulating, and freezing, on the freezer floor, eventually filling in and clogging the air vents..no air flow , the fridge wont cool. The easiest way to resolve this, empty out all contents and store someplace cold for 24 hours...a 2nd fridge, outside in a cooler if its cold like here in chicago. After its empty, unplug, open both doors and blow a fan for 24 hours. Prepare for an abundance of water due to melting ice.
After you defrost, you can plug it back in and it will be fine, HOWEVER, I suggest you take the back freezer wall off, you might have to take a floor cover off first, likely 2-4 screws in both the floor and the back wall. When you have the evaporator exposed, you will see a black cal rod defrost heater underneath the evaporator, as well as your drain hole just to the right of center underneath both heater and evaporator. Take a piece of 12-14 gauge solid, not stranded wire, removing the insulation and exposing the entire 6-8" piece of copper wire. wrap the wire around the diameter of the cal rod heater, 3-4 turns should be sufficient, and stick the other end of the wire down that drain hole. This will melt any ice that will build up in the future, everytime your unit goes into defrost cycle, so this wont happen again.

If air vents are clear of frost/ice, next thing to check is the back wall of your freezer, does there appear to be frost/ice/snow on the back wall? If so, your unit is not defrosting. mostly, this is usually caused by your defrost timer, located in the canopy mounted at the top of the FFC on Top freezer models, or your defrost thermostat, which is clipped onto the evaporator coil inside your freezer. Again, if its a 106 model Kenmore, this thermostat will have a pink and a brown wire coming into/out of it. My suggestion, if it isnt defrosting, change both. tjhe defrost control will connect with a plug, but you will have to hard wire the thermostat, ( cut wires from old, strip wire, and connect using wire nuts and electrical tape.)

Since the unit is a side by side model, check for ice on freezer floor...clogged drain. Check again for frost/ice on back wall, not defrosting, check same two parts, (the heaters rarely go bad on Kitchenaids, but never say never) You should also check for air flow into fridge, even if no frost / ice visible on back wall. Open the FFC door, and locate the air vent near the top, back of the fridge, on the left wall. While depressing the door switch, AND WITH THE FREEZER door closed, put your finger/hand near that vent. Do you feel any cold air? If you dont, you could have a bad door damper, not uncommon, or a bad damper control--> the temperature control WITHOUT the off or "0" position.

If any of this seems a bit overwhelming, I suggest you have a reputable repair technician check your fridge.

Oh, and lastly, you WILL NOT have two compressors, one for each compartment, nor will you have two sets of defrost heating elements, one for each half.
ALL cooling for 99% of refrigerators made in last 25 years takes place in the freezer, with the fridge being an empty box, except for an air intake vent, and an air exhaust vent which leads directly back into the freezer. When a refrigerator unit seems to still be cold in the freezer, but not cold enough or not cold at all in the FFC, its ALWAYS going to be caused by lack of air flow. But as you can see, there are a few things that can cause that lack of air flow.Hope this helpout , Good luck

Aug 02, 2010 | KitchenAid Superba Architect KSCS25INSS...

1 Answer

FREEZER MAKING ICE, BUT FOOD IS THAWING


If you have a Freezer on the top model Kenmore, with warm temps in the fridge, AND water dripping onto the top shelf of the lower fresh food compartment (FFC), this is usually caused by a clogged defrost drain. Since Kenmore is not an actual manufacturer of anything, they take other brands, i.e. Kitchenaid, GE, Frigidaire, etc., take their names off and put on a shiny Kenmore nametag. This is a common problem with Kitchenaid refrigerators. You can determine if your Kenmore is made by kitchenaid by looking at the model # tag. the first three digits will indicate the manufacturer, Kitchenaids begin with the sequence, 106.*.If this is indeed how your model # begins, keep reading. Since the water cant go down the drain tubing to the pan at the bottom of the unit, it builds up on the freezer floor, eventually blocking the air return vents from the fridge to the freezer, and the vent from the freezer to the fridge. YOu can check this very easily. Look at the ceiling of your FFC, near the back. toward the sides you will see two square holes, about 2" square, stick your finger and feel around the inside of those holes, do you feel any ice/frost, or do you just feel styrofoam, you might even see frost/ice below the level of your ceiling? This drain usually gets clogged with defrost water that does not completely drain, then of course it freezes, eventually plugging up the drian hole located at the level of your freezer floor, behind the back wall. The water keeps accumulating, and freezing, on the freezer floor, eventually filling in and clogging the air vents..no air flow , the fridge wont cool. The easiest way to resolve this, empty out all contents and store someplace cold for 24 hours...a 2nd fridge, outside in a cooler if its cold like here in chicago. After its empty, unplug, open both doors and blow a fan for 24 hours. Prepare for an abundance of water due to melting ice.
After you defrost, you can plug it back in and it will be fine, HOWEVER, I suggest you take the back freezer wall off, you might have to take a floor cover off first, likely 2-4 screws in both the floor and the back wall. When you have the evaporator exposed, you will see a black cal rod defrost heater underneath the evaporator, as well as your drain hole just to the right of center underneath both heater and evaporator. Take a piece of 12-14 gauge solid, not stranded wire, removing the insulation and exposing the entire 6-8" piece of copper wire. wrap the wire around the diameter of the cal rod heater, 3-4 turns should be sufficient, and stick the other end of the wire down that drain hole. This will melt any ice that will build up in the future, everytime your unit goes into defrost cycle, so this wont happen again.

If air vents are clear of frost/ice, next thing to check is the back wall of your freezer, does there appear to be frost/ice/snow on the back wall? If so, your unit is not defrosting. On most Kenmores, this is usually caused by your defrost timer, located in the canopy mounted at the top of the FFC on Top freezer models, or your defrost thermostat, which is clipped onto the evaporator coil inside your freezer. Again, if its a 106 model Kenmore, this thermostat will have a pink and a brown wire coming into/out of it. My suggestion, if it isnt defrosting, change both. tjhe defrost control will connect with a plug, but you will have to hard wire the thermostat, ( cut wires from old, strip wire, and connect using wire nuts and electrical tape.)

Since y ou mentioned the water accumulation, more water recently, my diagnosis would be the former versus the latter, as the lack of actual defrosting coincides with lack of defrost water, however I'll never say never.

If your unit is a side by side model, check for ice on freezer floor...clogged drain. Check again for frost/ice on back wall, not defrosting, check same two parts, (the heaters rarely go bad on Kitchenaids, but never say never) You should also check for air flow into fridge, even if no frost / ice visible on back wall. Open the FFC door, and locate the air vent near the top, back of the fridge, on the left wall. While depressing the door switch, AND WITH THE FREEZER door closed, put your finger/hand near that vent. Do you feel any cold air? If you dont, you could have a bad door damper, not uncommon, or a bad damper control--> the temperature control WITHOUT the off or "0" position.

If any of this seems a bit overwhelming, I suggest you have a reputable repair technician check your fridge.

Oh, and lastly, you WILL NOT have two compressors, one for each compartment, nor will you have two sets of defrost heating elements, one for each half.
ALL cooling for 99% of refrigerators made in last 25 years takes place in the freezer, with the fridge being an empty box, except for an air intake vent, and an air exhaust vent which leads directly back into the freezer. When a refrigerator unit seems to still be cold in the freezer, but not cold enough or not cold at all in the FFC, its ALWAYS going to be caused by lack of air flow. But as you can see, there are a few things that can cause that lack of air flow.

Apr 05, 2010 | Frigidaire 14.1 cu. ft. Upright Freezer...

1 Answer

Older Kenmore side by side, freezer warm....again!


"Fuzzy Ice on the back wall" yep, this sounds like a defrost system problem. You say you cleaned this fuzzy ice but, the real ice is behind that wall. I would get it fixed but call several service people and get a price. My guess is that once the defrost system is working then the Ice maker will work. If the freezer is not getting cold enough then the Ice maker won't work.

Now, the drain can cause a problem too but this is an easy fix. Pull out the bottom drawer in the freezer, look in the back under the cooling coils and you should see the drain hole. Keep this area clear of Ice and any thing else. Some tubing with a little air pressure will usually clear any blockage. A little hot water down that drain won't hurt. The water should drain to the a plastic pan under the Ref. Take the front grate off at the bottom of the Ref, look in the pan to make sure it went through.

This should be checked often, once a month or so.

Dec 02, 2008 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Kenmore fridge and freezer not cooling


Check to see if there is any ice built up on the back wall of the freezer. If so thaw the ice and take the back wall out of the freezer. next check to see if the fan is running in the freezer (evaporator fan) This fan is what circulates the air from the freezer to the fridge. If it does run then you have a defrost problem (if ice is on the coils and back wall). Then replace defrost timer, heater, and thermostat.

Nov 19, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer...

2 Answers

Refrigerator and freezer are warm (Kenmore model 59676509500)


if there is frost on the back wall of the freezer than its iced over (the automatic defrost cycle has failed) turn off the fridge for 18-24 hrs with freezer door open and the ice will melt and it will begin to cool again. It takes a long time for the ice behind the back wall to thouruoghly melt, if it isnt all the way defrosted you will end up with soild ice insead of frost and that will take even longer to thaw Dont forget to rate my solution as solved if I accurately answered your question...Thanks!!

Oct 01, 2007 | Refrigerators

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You have a failed component or components in your automatic defrost system. This is why you have excessive frost inside the freezer along the back wall. The timer could be stuck in run mode. The defrost thermostat (bi-metal) could be defective or the defrost heater could be open or shorted.

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Freezer wall ices up, fridge not staying cool


Is it ice in the freezer or frost? snow like.. big difference in problems

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