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Wiring diagram I'm replacing the driver to a horn on a yamaha speaker cabinet which has 1 15 inch speaker and 1 horn, I need to know which wire is the positive, the cabinet has 1 blue wire and 1 white wire. Thank You

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Blue should be positive

Posted on Sep 06, 2008


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I have 3 behringer b615d and all of them the horn speaker have spot playing. do you know what could be the problem


Generally, there are two possible problems- The horn diaphragm is blown or the power amp to the horn is broken. The diaphragm being blown is more likely. Remove the driver and run a voltmeter across the terminals. If it doesn't show continuity, replace the diaphragm. If it does show continuity, take the cabinet to the repair shop.

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PROPER WIRING FOR ATTACHING CROSSOVER TO PEAVEY SP4G SPEAKERS.


In Peavey cabinets, the lower woofer is always Yellow + and Blue - and the horn is always Red + and Black -. On the middle 15" the remaining two wires would be White + and Blue -

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Manual pdf


Here is a useful link that will answer most questions about this case.
I think the Randall should be Series-Parallel wired for 8 ohms

Speaker Wiring Diagrams

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I have a blown tweeter on my SP3 and I want to replace it but I don't know how to get it out of the enclosure?


There are a number of versions of SP-3, but normally you would remove the screws holding the horn into the cabinet, take out the horn and then unscrew the driver from the horn. At that point, either replace the diaphragm on the driver or the whole driver.

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I need a color coded wiring diagram for a peavey PV115 speaker cabinet.


Usually the colors you will find are red and black pair and yellow and white... USUALLY the red/blk pair go to the tweeter horn with red going to the + lead of the horn drivers. Usually the yellow/white pair go to the woofer with the white going to the + lead of the woofer in Peavey speakers... HOWEVER you never know if someone has rewired the cabinet so going by colors is NOT the best way to go... This should have the "soundgard" circuit in it and the lead that goes throught the lamp and resistor that is NOT connected to the inout jack is the TWEETER + lead. The pair that connects to the inout jack DIRECTELY is the woofer leads and the TIP connection of a 1/4 inch jack is the + woofer lead. Verifying these connections is the best method.

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Somehow have managed to remove wires from drivers (while trouble shooting svt 410 hlf cab) while not labeling them properly for reinstall. so far have not been able to locate a wiring diagram for inside...


Most schematics won't even have any colors listed... so let us have you try this:

Find a system ground someplace like the sleeve of a 1/4 inch jack... Using an ohmmeter check for continuity to the available wires that are disconnected. ASSUME that those showing a low resistance will go to the "-" terminals of the drivers. If you have say a black and red... expect that the black will be one of the grounds... often the red then will be the (+) of the woofer. If you have whites and yellow... OFten the white will also have continuity to ground and be the (-) for the tweeter and the yellow then to the (+). Now since your speaker has 4 woofers we need to be careful to wire then correctly to get the 4 ohm impedance of the cab. IF each woofer is 4 ohms impedance, then we need to wire them in series-parallel. The shell of input 1.4 inch jack will likely go to black wires... two of the speakers will have their (-) terminals connected to these. The tip of the 1/4 inch jack will probably connect to one or more red wires. These will connect to the (+) terminals of the OTHER TWO woofers. Next one of the available (-) with no connections will tie to the (+) terminal of one of the first two woofers. SImilarly the remaining (-) terminal of one of the woofers will tie to the last (+) terminal that is vacant. Note the + of the horn will tie probably to the High level pot and this will tie to the crossover someway.
Here is a site with general schematics.

http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm

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Would putting an EVM10DLX into a set of Yamaha BR-10s be a recommended upgrade? Worth the cost?


It is VERY RARE for such a change to be beneficial. The cabinets and speakers are finely tuned to work together and the originals are usually just as good performers as anything you can replace them with. If you want a subwoofer you need to get a larger cabinet and preferably a larger speaker. A ten inch speaker for subwoofer use would require a closely engineered cabinet. Best to go to a single powered 15 inch subwoofer (one designed as subwoofer) to run alongside your BR-10's.

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1 Answer

I've got a Behringer Ultrabass Bb410 1200w 4x10 Bass Cabinet in which 2 of the speakers rattle. I know the speakers have been removed and rewired. How can I get an internal wiring diagram to check...


The cabinet is listed as a 4 ohm unit.

We would exoect to see four, 4 ohm speakers in series parallel or four 16 ohm speakers in parallel.

If teh unit seems to rattle, first put an audio oscillator into it and sweep the frequency. It is common for grilles and also logos attached to them to rattle.

Open the unit and power each speaker the same way individually for a test.

I suspect you will find either the grille or mounting hardware is actually doing the rattling OR possibly the wires inside are vibrating.

If the sound is a scratchy buzz, then the speaker(s) have probably had voicecoils damaged by overheating.

In this case, buy 4 new speakers and replace all. It is not likely to find replacements for the Buggera brand they put in these cabinets. Also the word on the web about that brand of speaker is not very good.

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I've a marshall valvestate vs 102 r and i want to modify it.i DON'T KNOW WHAT PARTS HAVE TO REPLACE, the transformer, the speakers...can you help me?thanks


Why would you waste the time to try and modify it? What do you hope to gain? The designs are usually optimized with the parts they build them with. Even the speakers are selected to match the cabinet characteristics.

If you are dissatisfied with the unit, sell it and buy another that you like. It is unlikely you will get any better performance than the basic unit as supplied. You will waste a lot of money for nothing. If you want good bass for instance, use nothing less than a 15 inch and preferably 18 inch speaker or a quad of 12 inch ones.

Remember the performance is not only the speaker but the cabinet air volume and sound ports. For midrange and highs, use a horn with driver. Finding good PROFESSIONAL music rated speakers will be hard. Do NOT fall for the idea of using car stereo speakers for instrument music, that is futile as they are not designed for that function. Those are very inefficient speakers to start with.

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