Question about Carrier 52PQ307 Wall/Window Air Conditioner

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Under the window heat pumps, do they have a reset on the compressor,, I replaced the capasitor , the fan starts but the compressor doesnt?

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  • bruced94 Apr 05, 2011

    The over load device sat on the top of the heat punp AC compressor... I have a voltage meter it tells you if you have voltage in the line and I have a contaneuity tester. Their are wirers from the capacitor to the top of the compressor. one to the run the terminal ,one to start terminal and one to common. The common line went to the over load then to the terminal for the common line on the compressor .. one post on the capacitor is for fan. one post for Herm and one post has 3 wires to compressor. the common wire was burned off in side the OL . that line can be made hot so that one is ok but sciece its burned off the OL its not hooked to compressor, it can be jumped to compressor, but i thought that would be unsafe. to test the compressor that way and try to start it.

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The compressor is hermetically sealed. They have overload protection for temperature but it is not manually resettable. Check for proper voltage at the contactor going to the compressor.

Posted on Apr 05, 2011

  • 2 more comments 
  • bruced94 Apr 05, 2011

    Can a weak or failing capacatior cause the compressor to overheat and burn up the over load device? is the compressor cooked too?

  • Roger Jelinek Apr 05, 2011

    The capacitor is probably associated with the fan. Compressors don't normally have one. If it does have one and it went bad, the windings in the compressor would definitely overheat. if the over load over heats too many times, it will burn also. The thermal over load in the compressor should have opened and prevented all this. Where is the over load that burned located? Do you have a meter you can use to test the compressor for a short to ground?

  • Roger Jelinek Apr 06, 2011

    Now that was a description !!!! The overload is not an overload. If it wires in rather than pushing onto the studs of the compressor, it is a "Potential Relay". Its purpose is to engage the start winding for a second to help the compressor start and then remove power from the start winding once the compressor has started. If the compressor is going tight or has been short cycling a lot, that relay will fry. The other type that pushes onto the studs is called a "Current Relay". They both do the same thing but the Potential Relay operates by Voltage differential and the Current Relay by Amperage differential between starting and running of the compressor. From the way its wired, you have an "electrolytic Run Capacitor". They are normally metal and oval or round shaped. If it is not swollen out of shape, there's a good chance its OK. Disconnect the compressor completely and test each terminal to ground. Lets hope it is not grounded. Disconnect the capacitor, short the terminals together to be sure it is dry, (drained of voltage) then attach your ohm meter. One lead to Common and the other to either terminal and watch the numbers. The capacitor should start charging. Reverse the leads and it should start discharging. Test the other side the same way. If it won't charge and discharge from each terminal to its common, replace it as well as the relay. You will need to go to an HVAC supplier or Grainger for the new relay. It is unique to compressors, so most general supply stores won't carry it. Thanks for writing. Roger

  • Roger Jelinek Apr 07, 2011

    Wow! No thumbs for me on this. One would have been too many. I am sorry for misunderstanding. Some of the small (really small) scroll compressors do have a "Klixon" OVER LOAD. The start relay probably doesn't apply to a compressor that small. Both feet are in my mouth for that. Roger

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And when you tell me that the compressor doesnt run in that mode at any given time..... which the electric heat and heat pump itself works together so that when the load is really tough  that the heat pump doesnt over work and in general saves life on your compressor.      

 

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ALIGNMENT OF THE FAN IS A MUST.   doesnt cost much at all the fix this. Just a little time and bearings

 

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