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The part that activates the washing cycle when closing the lid broke. how do i get it to replace the part?

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If this is a Whirlpool manufactured TOP LOADER (such as Kenmore, Roper, Estate and certain late model Maytags), you must be referring to the lid switch or lid strike (actuator). Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the initial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that may not drain.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are tight. Sometimes these screws will loosen, causing the lid switch make intermittent contact. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because it does NOT have a lid strike (actuator) and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This type of switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator rod by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The first three sites on the list, include helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying any parts you may need. The lid switch and associated components are usually listed under the "Top and Cabinet" parts listing.


NOTE: Banging or slamming the lid can actually cause more harm than good. These switches are fragile and can break easily in this manner.


The average price of a replacement lid switch is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. The lid strike (if equipped) usually costs less than $5. Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. This is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.



If you have any questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) and let me know. I hope this helps you.


NOTE: If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20.

Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.

Posted on Apr 04, 2011

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1 Answer

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Sounds like you have a bad lid switch, or the plastic plunger on the lid that engages the lid switch is broke. if the plunger is broke, it is cheap, and only 2 screws to remove and put new one on. if that is not broke, check the lid switch. This model is a lid switch, and lid lock in one. You can test it before replacing it if you have a meter. you need to hinge the lid up to check and replace the lid switch. use a putty knife, on each side between the top and top of the front panel. slide the putty knife in one side, it will hit a bracket if your in the right spot. press in, and lift on that side of the top. do the same on other side, just don't let go of the first side or it will latch again. then swing the top back, the back side is on hinges. the lid switch is on the right side attached to the top. unplug washer, remove the 2 wires on the switch and check continuity. there should be continuity, or "open" when the lid is closed, and no continuity, or "closed" when you open the lid. if it is "closed" even when lid is closed, replace the lid switch. let me know if you have any further questions, shane.

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It sounds like you have a bad lid switch. If you open and close the lid, you should hear a distinctive "clicking" sound as the lid switch is activated when the lid closes. If you hear no sound, you need to check the following:

Some washers have the lid switch under the right-hand side of the wash tub opening and is activated through a small slot on the wash tub casing rim by a small plastic piece on the lid called a lid strike. If this is the type you have, make sure the lid strike is still intact or the switch will not activate. Check the two mounting screws next to the slot and make sure they are present and tight. These are the mounting screws that hold the lid switch in place. If they come loose it can prevent the switch from activating.

Newer models have the lid switch mounted under the washer casing in the left-hand rear adjacent to the left washer lid hinge. The switch is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes a simple adjustment of this rod can correct contact problems.

No matter what configuration you have, if you make all these preliminary checks and the switch still does not work, replace it. The following link will give you step-by-step instructions on how to accomplish this:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If you require further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

PS If you provide me with your COMPLETE model number (located under the washer lid along the tub rim) I can also assist you with locating parts.

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