Question about Microsoft Wireless Racing Wheel for Xbox 360

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Hi the slightest movement on ms steering wheel (xbox) puts full lock onwhen driving making it impossible to drive in a straight line.

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This kind of problem is usually caused by6 one of two things.
First of all, the most common reason this could be happening if the device is usually well maintained and used according to protocol, is that some kind of error must have occurred between the device and the game or the console. In this case, the most likely way to solve this issue is by re-calibrating the device or better still, if it has a reset function, just reset the device and re-calibrate. This would help sort out any type of error in the device and console.
On the other hand, it could be malfunctioning as a result of poor maintenance and as such, it might need to be replaced or to be sent for repairs. If this is the case, there is not much i can give to you as it would require real diagnosis by an expert.
Hope this was helpful?

Posted on Apr 04, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How can I adjust the steering wheel of my mazda 323 F 1996?


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My peugeot 206 52 plate is making a clunkin metal noise from offside almost in front of the wheel when lifting the clutch up it also rattles and does rattle in the same place when driving going over bumps...


The most likely causes will be...
A worn ball joint on the front suspension.
A broken front spring.
A worn driveshaft.
Most mechanics will have a look for you at no cost.
But you can test as follows.
(Driveshaft=) in an EMPTY car park or similar area turn your steering as far as you can to the left. Drive in a circle at about 20mph and listen. If faulty you will hear a regular "clonk, clonk, clonk" noise. Repeat this with your steering hard over to the right as well. It might be louder in one direction than the other.
(Ball joint=) DO NOT DO THIS ON JUST THE JACK!! PUT IT ON AXLE STANDS!!
Make sure the steering lock is ON.
Jack the car up and PUT IT ON AXLE STANDS for stability. Using a bit of effort grab the top and bottom of the wheel and try to rock it. Grab the wheel at left and right and repeat. Other than some steering movement it should be solid. There will be movement if the joint is worn, there may even be a click or clonk noise.
(Spring=) As for the ball joint test PUT IT ON AXLE STANDS!!
With the car off the ground take off the front wheel. Using a torch get a good look at the spring from the top all the way down to the bottom. There should be no breaks, shiny or missing pieces. Gently, but firmly, try and move the spring. It should be straight and not move. Do this both sides.

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1 Answer

I have a constant wobble at the steering wheel when driving in a straight line which does disapear when turning also the steering is sometimes jumpy and also have a loud sqealing noise on either full lock...


The noise at full lock is the pump screaming for mercy. All power steering pumps will complain a bit if the steering is held at full lock. Now, if the belt to the pump is loose, it will scream even louder, because holding the steering at full lock will cause the belt to slip. There is also a technical service bulletin for your vehicle concerning loud power steering noise which involves replacing the fluid lines and.or fluid cooler. This is not cause for concern, but an aggravation to the ears.

The "wobble" thing in the steering wheel is a whole different story. If it is wobbling all the time, it would almost have to be a tire/wheel or axle problem. I know you said this is not the problem, but I think you need to look again. Try rotating the tires to the back and see if the wobble changes. A very severerly warped brake rotor can cause this also, but will be much worse during braking. A bad axle shaft can also cause a wobble in the steering. This is consistent with your description of the problem changing during turns...A bad axle shaft can do this. Also check for looseness in the front wheel bearings.

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If all is fine when moving in a straight line - you are probably OK. Turning while in four wheel drive, especially a full hard over turn, puts a great amount of strain on the universal (or CV) joints of the steering axles. Although CV joints are smoother they too still have to supply power to the steering wheels at an angle while turning. If you have concerns about the CV or universal joints, jack up your vehicle, secure it with blocks at the wheels and put on jack stands, then inspect the joints checking for excess play. Rotate the front tires back and forth by hand while watching and feeling for unnatural movement or obvious broken joints. They may be difficult to see if covered with a rubber boot. If you do have boots, they need to be in good shape since they are designed to keep dirt out of the joint. If they are not in good shape, broken or split, they should be replaced. Let me know if this helps. Thanks

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2003 expedition replaced p/s pump and steering rack. it is still hard to initiate a turn in either direction regardless of speed


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I have a 95 Saturn SL1 and the ignition switch won't turn. I've sprayed a little penatrating oil in the keyslot and that didn't work. What do I do next?


Hello voss_rod,

I have a Saturn too. Happens all the time. The last time you turned the vehicle off the wheel was turned one way or the other. When the steering locked, the wheel trying to center itself put a lot of tension on the key cylinder.

The Fix:
Which ever way the wheels are facing (however slightly), turn the wheel a little more in the same direction while trying the key. It will only take the slightest movement of the wheel to release the tension and allow the key to turn.

If you find this helpful, take a second and rate this solution. I'd sure appreciate it.

Mike

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